Lucas Oil Stabalizer?
#1
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Lucas Oil Stabalizer?
I need to do an oil change soon and i was wondering if any one has used Lucas oil Stabalizer on thier RX7,I just dont want anything to go wrong If anyone knows please let me know before i do anything dumb
#5
Lives on the Forum
Don't do it...especially if you still have the stock oil injection.
Trying to burn that stuff is just...scary.
Don't waste your money with all those oil additives.
Majority of them are snake oil.
-Ted
Trying to burn that stuff is just...scary.
Don't waste your money with all those oil additives.
Majority of them are snake oil.
-Ted
#9
SpinningTrianglesOfDeath
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ya i wouldnt mess with it because it might burn it differently. I say you get something like 20 weight oil which is thicker and perfect for our seals and u should be fine
#10
Rider of the Sky
Lucas is nothing more than bright stock, which is essentially oil base with no additives to it at all. This includes anti-foaming agents. Originally made for commercial truck transmissions, I've seen dozens of testimonials of truckers draining their tranny after overheating (which Lucas was supposed to prevent, but often makes worse for the following reason) to find the inside of their gearbox was turned into a cappuccino. Our engines don't have anything like that kind of churning in them, but I still say to steer clear.
All it does is increase viscosity a great deal, regardless of what it feels like between your fingers. It's popular with the low-budget ricer crowd, because often they wear and scuff the crap out of their cylinders. But the band-aid usually ends up wearing out the engine faster even though it can feel better in the meantime. Oil is a very complicated cocktail, and diluting the additives royally screws it up. Don't believe me? Go bake a cake with twice the recommended amount of flour and see what you end up with.
Edit: They do make one product that performs well enough: the Upper Cylinder Lubricant, since it adds lubrication where there is normally minimal. But for us, you get a better and cheaper reaction from adding ashless 2-cycle instead.
All it does is increase viscosity a great deal, regardless of what it feels like between your fingers. It's popular with the low-budget ricer crowd, because often they wear and scuff the crap out of their cylinders. But the band-aid usually ends up wearing out the engine faster even though it can feel better in the meantime. Oil is a very complicated cocktail, and diluting the additives royally screws it up. Don't believe me? Go bake a cake with twice the recommended amount of flour and see what you end up with.
Edit: They do make one product that performs well enough: the Upper Cylinder Lubricant, since it adds lubrication where there is normally minimal. But for us, you get a better and cheaper reaction from adding ashless 2-cycle instead.
#13
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I have one of those little lucas displays, you know, the kind you find at autoparts stores with the little crank and gears showing how awesome lucas is. Crank it good for about a minute and you'll find the exact same thing, foam, and lots of it.
#14
Clean.
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Lucas = molasses. People with leaks, poor sealing parts bouncing around and what not will use it to slow down the problem for a while. Then the molasses causes all kinds of friction, heat, wear, restriction and pressure build up as it sticks everywhere. A better option for people with those problems (until they actually fix them), is to use 20w50. It's a little thicker, but not insanely thick like Lucas. Your car was not designed for such thick oil like Lucas, and it will eventually cause problems.
Might as well give you the rest of the info on your oil change. Use API certified 10w30 (thinner) or 20w50 (thicker). Don't use 20w50 in arctic weather (even mild snowy winter ok). Don't use fram oil filters. Never use any oil additives. Beyond that it doesn't matter much. See FAQ and/or do a forum search for more info.
Last edited by ericgrau; 10-11-07 at 08:06 PM.
#15
MazdaTruckin.com Founder
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Yep, I used to know a guy who studied off the shelf oils for NASA projects he said he's never seen any oil addative that didn't completly f&^k up the oil you put it in. If you want something better, get a better oil.
#18
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He said anything that you put in as a complete change was fine generally speaking, of coarse there are other things we have to consider with a rotary. Oil makers design their oils with specific needs in mind so throwing an addative in there just skrews up the "balance of the system".
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#23
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I'm with Ted... NO
I use Elf synthetic oil... no additives and it works great!.
if you think your engine needs additives its time to work on the engine... there is no such thing as Mechanic in a Can
I use Elf synthetic oil... no additives and it works great!.
if you think your engine needs additives its time to work on the engine... there is no such thing as Mechanic in a Can
#24
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Thanks for preventing me from making a dissaster. So the Best thing would be to add thicker oil? Since i would like prolong the life of my seals or should i just go full synthetic? I also heard you cannot just add any full synthetic it has to be a good brand like Mobile 1, or i could end up causing problems later.