LSD Recomedation
#1
LSD Recomedation
Should I get the suff from the street...... errrr.... Ummm.... What I mean is.....
Yeah, I have been considering the follow for my S4 TII, being used for drifting and road racing, plus crusing:
Stock New OEM (or rebuild kit if available)
Mazdaspeed 2 way
Kaaz 1.5 way (I couldn't find for a 2 way)
Cusco
I am thinking more towards the Mazdaspeed or Kaaz, but how important is 2 way over 1.5 way?
Yeah, I have been considering the follow for my S4 TII, being used for drifting and road racing, plus crusing:
Stock New OEM (or rebuild kit if available)
Mazdaspeed 2 way
Kaaz 1.5 way (I couldn't find for a 2 way)
Cusco
I am thinking more towards the Mazdaspeed or Kaaz, but how important is 2 way over 1.5 way?
#2
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You can get Mazda comp rebuild parts for your diff to make lock up a little more aggressive.
Also, ive heard two way can be a bit difficult to drive on the street since the differentials full effect can be felt even during deceleration. I prefer 1.5
Also, ive heard two way can be a bit difficult to drive on the street since the differentials full effect can be felt even during deceleration. I prefer 1.5
#3
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Mazda does not have any more NEW S4 TII LSD Diffs. The are NLA. Rebuild kits are still available
BTW: the part number for the S4 diffs is:
Mazda Part Number: P090-27-200B
Mazdacomp Price: 945
Mazda Dealer Price: ~ 1500
BTW: the part number for the S4 diffs is:
Mazda Part Number: P090-27-200B
Mazdacomp Price: 945
Mazda Dealer Price: ~ 1500
#5
Also, ive heard two way can be a bit difficult to drive on the street since the differentials full effect can be felt even during deceleration. I prefer 1.5
Mazdaspeed is overpriced.
What kind do you guys use?
#7
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Originally posted by eyecandy
Corksport has the Mazdaspeeds for $670.... Cusco are about $1k+ Kaaz are $850... How is that overpriced?
Corksport has the Mazdaspeeds for $670.... Cusco are about $1k+ Kaaz are $850... How is that overpriced?
-Ted
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#8
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Can't you make the torsen limited slip out of a miata work in a FC? I think I saw someone had put up a walkthrough of his install, I'm not sure how much modification was involved though.
#10
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Originally posted by taco-salad
Can't you make the torsen limited slip out of a miata work in a FC? I think I saw someone had put up a walkthrough of his install, I'm not sure how much modification was involved though.
Can't you make the torsen limited slip out of a miata work in a FC? I think I saw someone had put up a walkthrough of his install, I'm not sure how much modification was involved though.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=229115
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The stock LSD sucks!
How do you see that??? The stock TII diff is nearly identical to the kaaz. And it is acctually quiter.
Torsen for me
If you are saying you put an FD torsen in, then you pretty much downgraded (assumeing you have an S4 TII)
#13
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Originally posted by Cory Simpson
How do you see that??? The stock TII diff is nearly identical to the kaaz. And it is acctually quiter.
If you are saying you put an FD torsen in, then you pretty much downgraded (assumeing you have an S4 TII)
How do you see that??? The stock TII diff is nearly identical to the kaaz. And it is acctually quiter.
If you are saying you put an FD torsen in, then you pretty much downgraded (assumeing you have an S4 TII)
I would think the torsen would last longer than the clutch on the clutch type. The torsen does not have to engage either. For drag the clutch type is better(can handle more tq), but for the track the torsen is better(more predictable)
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Originally posted by nonameo
I would think the torsen would last longer than the clutch on the clutch type. The torsen does not have to engage either. For drag the clutch type is better(can handle more tq), but for the track the torsen is better(more predictable)
I would think the torsen would last longer than the clutch on the clutch type. The torsen does not have to engage either. For drag the clutch type is better(can handle more tq), but for the track the torsen is better(more predictable)
#17
Hope these two help:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential.htm
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...&highlight=lsd
-Ben
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential.htm
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...&highlight=lsd
-Ben
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Originally posted by Cory Simpson
If you are saying you put an FD torsen in, then you pretty much downgraded (assumeing you have an S4 TII)
If you are saying you put an FD torsen in, then you pretty much downgraded (assumeing you have an S4 TII)
If you consider the torsens locking up substantially quicker then the clutch type as well engaging/disengaging faster, not wearing anywhere near as fast, and needing a lot less maintaince, a con, then yea, I guess I did downgrade.
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I would think the torsen would last longer than the clutch on the clutch type. The torsen does not have to engage either. For drag the clutch type is better(can handle more tq), but for the track the torsen is better(more predictable)
I've heard story's of people hitting the apex on a track, or if you have super soft suspension and on of the back tires gets off of the ground. The which ever rear tire that got off the ground can/will spin backward (if you get on the gas). And when that tire touchs back down it's going to send you into one fun ride for the wall.
lol right.......
If you consider the torsens locking up substantially quicker then the clutch type as well engaging/disengaging faster, not wearing anywhere near as fast, and needing a lot less maintaince, a con, then yea, I guess I did downgrade.
If you consider the torsens locking up substantially quicker then the clutch type as well engaging/disengaging faster, not wearing anywhere near as fast, and needing a lot less maintaince, a con, then yea, I guess I did downgrade.
OK, the reaction time difference between a clutch type LSD/TORSEN are so slim as long as the clutch LSD isn't worn out. That you wouldn't be able to notice.
And if you ever take your TORSEN to the drag strip when it locks off of the line and you just dropped the clutch you can say bye bye to a couple of those teeth on the worm gears inside that thing.
Unless you spend the $1000+ to get a stronger aftermarket TORSEN unit, which I dought you did. But your car may also not be makeing the power that it takes to break a TORSEN off the line.
yes i would like to know as well. why is clutch better than viscous and vice versa?
One the viscous reacts slower (not that great of a deal), two it will hold much less power before the seals in it go kaput, but the benifit of the viscous is that it last much longer.
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Originally posted by Cory Simpson
OK, the reaction time difference between a clutch type LSD/TORSEN are so slim as long as the clutch LSD isn't worn out. That you wouldn't be able to notice.
OK, the reaction time difference between a clutch type LSD/TORSEN are so slim as long as the clutch LSD isn't worn out. That you wouldn't be able to notice.
As far as drag racings concerned, I dont really care as im not suiting the car for this niche. On the subject of road racing though, the torsen can't be beat in performance terms by the S4 clutch diff.
You should probably get your information straight before calling out "downgrades" when you're replacing an engine that blows seals for one known to blow head gaskets
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You should probably get your information straight before calling out "downgrades" when you're replacing an engine that blows seals for one known to blow head gaskets
So your saying the supra engine sucks because it blows head gaskets, due to the fact that the stock HG was not torqued down enough from the factory?
And who says rotary's blow seals? YOU! A stock 7MGTE if properly maintained (just like the rotary) will not blow any seals until it passes 200,000+ miles. But if you pump up the boost, hot rod the car, and don't do regular maintanence they just like the rotary's apex, oil seals, and everything else. The HG will blow. And then on the other hand everything has a life expectency!
So just because a problem is common to so retards that go around with 20 PSI of untuned boost, and then bitch because their HG blow, don't make it sound like every supra engine has bad head gaskets. And don't go stereo typing the rotary like it blow apex/oil seals just because it's a rotary.
Its already been stated that the clutch type wears fairly quickly.
As far as drag racings concerned, I dont really care as im not suiting the car for this niche. On the subject of road racing though, the torsen can't be beat in performance terms by the S4 clutch diff.
As far as drag racings concerned, I dont really care as im not suiting the car for this niche. On the subject of road racing though, the torsen can't be beat in performance terms by the S4 clutch diff.
OK with around a 150,000 mile life expectancy (with proper maintenance) the clutch type will only need to be rebuilt once in the cars life. And that's at the most.
And when you get me some track times with a TORSEN, and with a clutch pack. With the same driver, on the same track, and when one is way better then the other. Then I will accept that the TORSON can't be beat in performance on the track
Until then, it will just be a personal preference, and I will lean on the clutch pack for being a better all around differential.
Last edited by Cory Simpson; 01-05-04 at 03:01 PM.
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Originally posted by Cory Simpson
And who says rotary's blow seals? YOU! A
And who says rotary's blow seals? YOU! A
OK with around a 150,000 mile life expectancy (with proper maintenance) the clutch type will only need to be rebuilt once in the cars life. And that's at the most.
This whole thread got flushed down the ******* again with peoples stupid opinions being taken as fact.
Rookie84, the VLSD and torsen aren't even close to being on the same level. If YOU plan on doing any real racing or drifting look into someones serious setup (those mentioned earlier) rather then calling out more BS, and then see where the Kaaz 1.5 stands.
Last edited by Ni5mo180SX; 01-05-04 at 08:38 PM.