I've got a 420whp fc rx7 that desperately needs solid mounts in the rear. I know there are people out there making way more power but my car's rear end can tell you it wasn't meant to handle this much torque. Long story short I have been trying to source solid bushings for everything because its what a lot of the norotors guys swear by. Problem is I can't seem to find everything I need. I was able to source PBM's forward diff mount, Level zero's solid diff mounts, PBM's diff mounts to be used as subframe mounts (apparently you just need to drill out the middle a little so the subframe bolts will fit), PBM's lateral arms, PBM's toe steering eliminator set, Ronin speed works camber links, PBM's trailing arm bushings, and I think that's it.

My main question is if I am missing anything and if there is a better option than drilling out PBM control arm bushings to go into the subframe. Also do I need PBM's bearing conversion for the trailing/control arm? Any advice would be appreciated.
Also I am going to put a link to every part because I wish someone had a list that wasn't ten years old when I started this journey.
Diff: https://levelzeromotorsports.com/sto...roller=product
Forward Diff Mount: https://store.partsshopmax.com/shop/...ing/FCSDB.html
Subframe Bushings: https://store.partsshopmax.com/shop/...ing/FCSDR.html
Lateral Arms: https://store.partsshopmax.com/FCTOE.html
Toe steering eliminators: https://store.partsshopmax.com/shop/...ing/FCTEB.html
Camber links: https://www.roninspeedworks.net/inde...product_id=115
Trailing/control arm bushing: https://store.partsshopmax.com/shop/...g/FCTARUB.html

 

I’m just wondering why you don’t use the pbm subframe risers? Just asking the question.

 

Fair question. I have been told that the pbm subframe mounts raise the subframe a little bit and can cause your driveshaft u-joint to undergo premature wear.

 

Fair point, thinking it’s worth doing the math to calculate if the subframe/diff angle change would be a problem. Maybe the trans output shaft position differs that much compared to fc t2 or na…? I do have fc with s5 t2 engine, t2 trans, t2 diff, so no experience with an ls in a fc.

My experience with the pbm subframe & diff risers with a lowered car is it fixed the suspension geometry. Before them with 235/40/18’s stretched on a 11.5” wide wheels in the rear somewhat low it felt like the car got lazy and sat on its butt. After, the car felt like it had more positive/forward rake and it woke up the car and felt way more aggressive.

Devils advocate, I’ve heard some say the pbm subframe risers is a bad idea because it can allow the subframe to rotate under load, but I’ve seen a lot of high hp fc drift cars without issues, and I don’t have any bad experiences with grip & drift, but I’m at low 300hp. I figured the rear main camber link is supposed to keep the subframe from moving.

Might be worth looking at some videos of the designer of fc pbm suspension’s car, rotary but was running rotary t2 engines think around the 400-500hp. Welcome to other people’s opinions, and maybe experience with the same engine/trans setup as OP’s.

Also curious to how the Pbm diff bushings can be used in the subframe such that the main camber link can allow the subframe to rotate to adjust camber, unless the individual camber links are enough to adjust rear camber. Again, just asking the question for my own curiosity. I figured the stock subframe bushings have enough compliance due to the rubber to allow the subframe to rotate.

Whiteline also offers eccentric camber adjusters which go into the rear hubs. https://whitelineperformance.com/pro...owNjx0AfrAV2TM