the dealership would cost about the same as any aftermarket supplier so i would probably just go through them and it would probably get to you quicker too. yes, there is no difference between the n/a and T2 AIT sensor.

 

I notice mazdatrix doesn't have one listed. But of course they're about 20 bucks more expensive on everything that I've found there anway. Any other aftermarket suppliers?

 

maybe victoria british but aside from those 2 i don't know of any OEM parts suppliers.

 

Guess its gotta be the dealer, after I swap the one off my parts car of course. I wonder if I can clean it with carb cleaner???

 

ya Karack's right...5.5 is way to high...I just adjusted mine WOT was 4K

 

The FSM Page 4B-49 says word for word:

Throttle Opening
Idle Position Approx 1k Ohms
Full open approx 5 PLUS or MINUS 1k Ohms

 

Well I replaced the AIT sensor and cleaned the connection. Took the TPS off and sprayed the contact cleaner inside of it blah blah blah. Anyway, I tested the TPS when I had it off and I think I have my multimeter calibrated correctly, it was reading 7 at WOT. Fully closed I know it should read 0. I adjusted it to 1k at idle but the screw had to be all the way out. I know the farther the sensor is reading the farther it has to be adjusted in order to reach 1k. It decelerates much smoother now, not hardly jerky at all, but the throttle transition is terrible. You're either in or out of it and when you hold a steady point in the throttle it makes a brrrrrr sound. Obviously the TPS is shot to hell but it still has a pulsing hesitation under slow acceleration when its cold and not as bad once its warmed up. This is the second TPS I've had on the car. Any advice???


Chris

 

i had the same problem and turned out to be a vac leak... and plus bad injector grommets

 

The injectors were just replaced with new everything and I've searched up and down for a vac leak.

 

It isn't logical to dump money into a car and still have it run shitty. I'm considering standalone. Guess I should have listened to everyone that said standalone is worth its weight in gold.

 

Just replaced the TPS with one that was good. The car is running significantly better as of right now. Still has the slight hesitation under mild load/acceleration. Once it gets going I don't feel it hardly if any at all. I'm gonna swap out the coils tomorrow and see what I can get out of it. Maybe plug wires too. The wires are accel 8mm thundersport about 15k miles on them. Not sure why they would be screwing up. I'll keep updating.

 

I have probably the exact same problem mate!!!!
Have you fixed it???What was it???
I know that this topic is ancient but any help would be highly appreciated!!!!!

Here is my case copied from another topic.
"A few days ago my 91 turbo FC convertible started to act really weird.

My mods are:
New engine core (5000km on it)
Front mount intercooler
3" downpipe and complete motoria exhaust
HKS "mushroom" air intake
Blitz BOV
SARD fuel pump 230lt/h
air pump removed
The car is running rich below 3800 rpm.

The car turns the ignition, starts and dies immediately if i dont start with a gear on (that has something to do with the warm up system,right?) but starts fine with a gear on.

Also the car stumbles and bulks if the engine is cold and i try to boost it lightly but runs fine when the engine is at normal temperature.

A few days ago now the car started to bulk and stumble at random times when the engine is at normal temperature. When it does that i press the throttle pedal less or i change to a higher gear and it seems to get back to normal. After a while the car might be ok or it might stumble again.If i try to floor the pedal, the car seems to hesitate and stumble for a while and the engine might turn off.
Also i have very low boost...the stock gauges goes only half the way at full boost even at 3rd-4th gear.

So...any ideas?
Cant it be the spark plugs?
A sensor maybe? (crank angle or AFM?)
Something else?

Thank you in advance "

Any help please!!!!

 

same problem as above pretty much . came across this thread looking for info .anyone have some ideas

 

I have developed the same problem, pretty much, but I have noticed that my accelerated warm-up no longer works, which leeds me to believe it is a vacume leak of some sort. I looked for one a couple of times and couldn't see anything obvious. One other note...it happened suddenly...I got on it one time to get through a light and it barely made it to redline. I have my boost set to 10 psi and it only goes to 4-5 lbs.

 

Fixed it. The wastegate control rod dropped off because the c-clip was missing. Re-installed the rod and put a c-clip on. Are there special high-heat c-clips for the wastegate?...Oh, well...
we will see.