when my s5 gtu is cold in teh morning. i can only rev it to about 5.5 6k and the engine kinda shakes. after getting warm, about 4 -5 mins it is still under powered but has a little better top end. i still haven't been able to run the car to 8k though. it kinda dies around 7.5k. my 5+6 are open and everything is grounded w/ 8ga. i have excellent compression. i put a timing light on each wire and noticed that when reved the light blink faster of course, but upon deceleration the light skips some and doesn't blink. so im not sure if this is a sign of the coil going out or if its supposed to do this.

 

anyone?

 

the timing light thing is normal, does it with me, too...as for the other troubles, why are you revving it while it's cold?

 

to diagnos a problem.

JMaxx93 (not suprfast)

 

Sounds like your thermosensor is going out or is not making a good connection, this will send irratic signals to the EGI and will cause these "fuel cuts" hesistations studders whatever you want to call them. Run the codes on the car and i bet dollars to donuts the first thing it will throw at you is gonna be the thermosensor...good luck and check out my thread outlining the same problem....

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=undrivable

 

i ran the code and the only one it pulls is tps. so does anyone know for sure that a bad tps will cause this problem? i ohmed it and it goes to about 1500 ohms then completely open so....... anyway i'll try to find a tps senor and give it a shot.

ANYONE HAVE A TPS SENSOR??!!

 

look on ebay robsmoke sells them as a buy know

 

haven't found any buy it now's for s5 tps sensors

 

Its just a TPS, not A TPS sensor. TPS= Throttle Position Sensor. Also, check all your vacuum lines and connections, one could have fallen off. If one does, you'll have a really shitty idle, and poorer car performance. After that, Make sure you have the OEM thermostat.

 

DAMNIT!!! I'm usually the one making those comments alright you got me.

what are you refering to with the oem thermostat?

 

OEM thermostat as in MAZDA FACTORY ONLY. Dont know how it pertains to your problem, but I thought I would clarify that point.

 

right, i got the "original equipment manufacturer" part of the post, just, as you said, how does that matter. and why can't it be aftermarket?

 

The aftermarket ones can cause flow to be weird and open and close oddly, causing the water thermosensor to send weird information to the CPU causing the car to idle erratically. OEM t-stats are like $20 shipped from Mazdatrix, so its not a bad loss if it's not the problem. Just check for vacuum leaks if that doesnt fix it.