Hey guys I come to you with a few questions, maybe some one might be able to give me some advice before I start to dig in on the car.

I with friends 2 years ago and I have put it on the back burner for several reasons. I got the car to start after I did the rebuild then I just had issues. Finally in the last couple of weeks I have been able to get her running, well enough that she starts on her own and I did a bit of tuning with the newly installed microtech.

Well, after getting my aftermarket sender (oil pressure gauge) to fit where the stock sender fits I have made a not so fun discovery. When the oil is hot I have:
10 psi - idle
27 psi - 3000rpm
50 psi - 5000 rpm to redline.



First of all, when the rebuild was performed I put in the thermowax pellet cancellor from atkins. But I do have some questions regarding what all is supposed to seal on the cancellor

There is a crush washer on the crank pulley bolt, then there is also an O-ring on the tip of the crank pulley bolt. Are there any o-rings that should go on either side of the thermowax pellet cancellor? I couldn't find any details on that.



I will pull the front cover and check the infamous o-ring/casting issue.


The main reason for my post is that I remember when putting the engine back together, we got to the part where you put the check valve in the (ball and spring) in the E-shaft. He mentioned that we didn't need to put that back, usually that is removed so that oil is always flowing to the rotors.
Well I did some research (search function) and found that when the ball and spring check valve is removed there is some sort of orifice that needs to get JB welded in. Could this be my source of low oil pressure (removing the check ball/spring)?
If it is what are my options? Are there any aftermarket oil pumps that flow more oil than the S4 FC oil pump? Can I use the stock pump and just change the regulator to up my pressure? Would running a heavier oil be helpful or just do damage to items like the turbo (I run 20W50 right now).


At this point if it is the check ball, I'm done with this ******* car. I will probably part it out even though I have 10k into it. I am just fed up with it.

 

10 psi is low. It should be at least 15+. Mine usually sits around 22psi at idle with internal mods. The check ball should have been replaced by a weber jet for maximum oiling.

I would pull it and do a rubber seal rebuild if the apex seals and springs are cool (check your compression before pulling). Do the e-shaft oil mod and street performance regulator white its out. Early fixing will cost less in the long run. You don't want to ruin housings or rotors...and the e-shaft itself for that matter...

 

I just took a look at the O-ring procedure
http://mazdatrix.com/faq/oring.htm

I still don't understand the right way to install it on a 87 gear housing...I see it says not to use the gasket (which I just looked and there is a gasket there, so there is hope).


I also saw write ups/videos onhow to up the oil pressure by modifying the front and rear regulators, do you all think this is a good idea or not?

Where can you buy a rubber seal kit? I don't want to replace the seals that I don't have to.

 

I'm curious. Who advised removing the ball/spring out of the oil jet in the eccentric shaft?

It sounds more like a front cover gasket/o'ring problem though. Just curious about the reasoning about removing the oil jet spring/ball out of the e-shaft.

 

The factory oil pump is overkill already.
What you should do is install the pellet and check the front cover o-ring. Make sure the o-ring is a factory part cause they are special treated for heat. I upgraded my oil pressure regulator for saftey. I think mazdatrix sales one for $100.


Do you still have the factory oil sensor. Try hooking that back up and see what it says.

 

IF you have an early front cover housing ( rubber o-ring only) then skip the gasket and use RTV only.

The idiots who put my motor back together used a gasket and oring which is wrong on the early front covers. I had 0 oil pressure at idle and it wouldn't go above 30 when warm.

 

Are you talking about the early front covers as S4 and older? The ones without the teflon o-ring retainer? They DO use a gasket. Its even on Mazdatrix's website. You can get by with just RVT, but from the factory they came with gaskets.

This is a TII motor with a TII oil pump, correct? The Turbo oil pumps are higher volume and would be able to sustain more oil pressure at idle than the smaller NA units. Im assuming it is since there is a TII in your sig, but just asking. Most people Ive heard from usually report 20-25psi at idle with a Weber jet in place of the originals, but less with an NA pump. What kind of gauge are you using to read the pressure (I know you said its aftermarket, but still)?

 

Yeah this is aTII motor with a TII oil pump. I am running an autometer electrical gauge. But last night I bought a mechanical one just to check before I take the front cover off to check for the Oring.

I will update.