Low oil pressure
12-03-10, 11:45 AM
#26
Before I installed the engine, I replaced the front and rear seals but I didn't have the front cover off.
When I get around to pulling the front cover, do I need the be concerned with the needle bearing falling down?
How about when I changed the front seal, could it have fallen then? The engine was mounted on an engine stand but I don't think it was perfectly level, close, but a few degrees off.
When I get around to pulling the front cover, do I need the be concerned with the needle bearing falling down?
How about when I changed the front seal, could it have fallen then? The engine was mounted on an engine stand but I don't think it was perfectly level, close, but a few degrees off.
If the engine is in the car and you want to remove the front cover, you DO have to be concerned about the needle bearing. Keep the clutch to the floor (use a piece of wood or a heavy brick).
12-03-10, 12:42 PM
#27
Just cruising
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Thanks for the info. Would you happen to know how holding in the clutch keeps the bearing in place. Doesn't seem like the holding in the clutch should have anything to do with the bearing.
12-03-10, 10:12 PM
#28
Too old for this
With the clutch pedal down, it is pressing on the clutch/flywheel/eccentric shaft from the back, thus holding the shaft forward. The bearing is at the front, but the e shaft goes all the way through and those bearings at the front are (pretty much) the only things locating the e shaft front-to-back. Hope that makes sense.
12-04-10, 08:21 AM
#29
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With the clutch pedal down, it is pressing on the clutch/flywheel/eccentric shaft from the back, thus holding the shaft forward. The bearing is at the front, but the e shaft goes all the way through and those bearings at the front are (pretty much) the only things locating the e shaft front-to-back. Hope that makes sense.
12-04-10, 02:26 PM
#30
I wish I was driving!
The engine essentially has 3 oil pressure regulators. The one in the front cover, designed to prevent the front cover from blowing off from over-revving a cold engine and spiking the oil pressure above 110 psi, the one located at the rear of the engine, to regulate engine oil pressure to 65 psi maximum when the engine is warmed up, and the thermal pellet in the eccentric shaft, to regulate the engine oil pressure to 30 psi maximum when the engine is cold to prevent over cooling the rotors and delaying engine warm-up.
When the engine warms up, the thermal pellet blocks off the front eccentric shaft bleed, and the oil pressure is then regulated by the next higher regulator- the 65 psi rear iron unit.
If you have a high idle, a very efficient oil pumping system, and the stock pellet, its deifinitely possible to have a higher oil pressure hot than cold.
12-04-10, 11:44 PM
#32
12-04-10, 11:49 PM
#34
My S5 T2 has about 9-10 lbs/sq ft oil pressure at idle and only goes up to like 40 lbs at 3000 rpm.
My first thought was the front cover gasket. When I removed the front eccentric thermostat it was covered in oil.
I've had several T2s apart but I can't remember if it is normal for it be oil coated. If it isn't, could that cause my low oil pressure?
If it normal, what do you guys think could be causing this?
ashley
My first thought was the front cover gasket. When I removed the front eccentric thermostat it was covered in oil.
I've had several T2s apart but I can't remember if it is normal for it be oil coated. If it isn't, could that cause my low oil pressure?
If it normal, what do you guys think could be causing this?
ashley
12-05-10, 01:22 PM
#37
I wish I was driving!
High idle for those with vacuum leaks or improperly set idles.
Not something I've seen often, but I have seen it more than once. There are plenty of guys that rebuild their own engines, bolt on better oil pumps, set the oil clearances at the absolute minimum, and then fall short on setting up the engine for running correctly. They delete all the emissions, the BAC valve, and strip out the throttle body, and then drive around with 1200 rpm idle because the engine dies if they try to adjust lower than that. They tell people its like that because "it has a big streetport".
These guys, tho, typically, also throw in the eccentric pellet delete, but not always.
Not something I've seen often, but I have seen it more than once. There are plenty of guys that rebuild their own engines, bolt on better oil pumps, set the oil clearances at the absolute minimum, and then fall short on setting up the engine for running correctly. They delete all the emissions, the BAC valve, and strip out the throttle body, and then drive around with 1200 rpm idle because the engine dies if they try to adjust lower than that. They tell people its like that because "it has a big streetport".
These guys, tho, typically, also throw in the eccentric pellet delete, but not always.
12-05-10, 04:51 PM
#39
High idle for those with vacuum leaks or improperly set idles.
Not something I've seen often, but I have seen it more than once. There are plenty of guys that rebuild their own engines, bolt on better oil pumps, set the oil clearances at the absolute minimum, and then fall short on setting up the engine for running correctly. They delete all the emissions, the BAC valve, and strip out the throttle body, and then drive around with 1200 rpm idle because the engine dies if they try to adjust lower than that. They tell people its like that because "it has a big streetport".
These guys, tho, typically, also throw in the eccentric pellet delete, but not always.
Not something I've seen often, but I have seen it more than once. There are plenty of guys that rebuild their own engines, bolt on better oil pumps, set the oil clearances at the absolute minimum, and then fall short on setting up the engine for running correctly. They delete all the emissions, the BAC valve, and strip out the throttle body, and then drive around with 1200 rpm idle because the engine dies if they try to adjust lower than that. They tell people its like that because "it has a big streetport".
These guys, tho, typically, also throw in the eccentric pellet delete, but not always.
guess I am just lucky
12-10-10, 06:05 PM
#40
I was reading this thread in the hopes to confirm a proper oil pressure reading for an S4 turbo. I got confused with people throwing numbers around here and there.
Can someone please state a proper cold idle oil pressure and running temperature idle? Again, S4 TurboII
Can someone please state a proper cold idle oil pressure and running temperature idle? Again, S4 TurboII
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