When changing the front seal, if you didn't remove the cover, the o-ring was unaffected.

If the engine is in the car and you want to remove the front cover, you DO have to be concerned about the needle bearing. Keep the clutch to the floor (use a piece of wood or a heavy brick).

 

Thanks for the info. Would you happen to know how holding in the clutch keeps the bearing in place. Doesn't seem like the holding in the clutch should have anything to do with the bearing.

 

With the clutch pedal down, it is pressing on the clutch/flywheel/eccentric shaft from the back, thus holding the shaft forward. The bearing is at the front, but the e shaft goes all the way through and those bearings at the front are (pretty much) the only things locating the e shaft front-to-back. Hope that makes sense.

 

Thanks. Now I C.

 

Not necessarily true.

The engine essentially has 3 oil pressure regulators. The one in the front cover, designed to prevent the front cover from blowing off from over-revving a cold engine and spiking the oil pressure above 110 psi, the one located at the rear of the engine, to regulate engine oil pressure to 65 psi maximum when the engine is warmed up, and the thermal pellet in the eccentric shaft, to regulate the engine oil pressure to 30 psi maximum when the engine is cold to prevent over cooling the rotors and delaying engine warm-up.
When the engine warms up, the thermal pellet blocks off the front eccentric shaft bleed, and the oil pressure is then regulated by the next higher regulator- the 65 psi rear iron unit.

If you have a high idle, a very efficient oil pumping system, and the stock pellet, its deifinitely possible to have a higher oil pressure hot than cold.

 

Good to know.

My n/a motor use to be at 30/60psi on idle/^3000rpm's. Now its at about 25/50. Original motor is at 150xxx and is getting tired, but good to know(oil pres. wise) it still has life left.

 

when i first turn on my car (cold) it idles with about 60 psi of oil pressure.
onces its warmed up it goes past the 110 psi mark, i have higher pressure with a warm engine then cold. strange.

 

why would it be so high? thermal pallet?

 

how many miles does your car have?

 

My original motor is currently at 197k and still chugging along.
Low oil pressure and all.

 

OK, granting the theoretical possibility, two questions...
-Why have a "high idle" and how high is high?
-Is this condition something you've seen (often)?

 

High idle for those with vacuum leaks or improperly set idles.
Not something I've seen often, but I have seen it more than once. There are plenty of guys that rebuild their own engines, bolt on better oil pumps, set the oil clearances at the absolute minimum, and then fall short on setting up the engine for running correctly. They delete all the emissions, the BAC valve, and strip out the throttle body, and then drive around with 1200 rpm idle because the engine dies if they try to adjust lower than that. They tell people its like that because "it has a big streetport".
These guys, tho, typically, also throw in the eccentric pellet delete, but not always.

 

Thanks for the response, scathcart...I feel much better about my engine now.
Turns out, I have 40psi at idle.


As long as my "idle" is 3000rpm.


So much better.

 

I have a new FD oil pump, the pellet delete, "stripped out" throttle body, no BAC, aggressive street port but nothing crazy- and I got a nice smooth 800-900 idle

guess I am just lucky

 

I was reading this thread in the hopes to confirm a proper oil pressure reading for an S4 turbo. I got confused with people throwing numbers around here and there.

Can someone please state a proper cold idle oil pressure and running temperature idle? Again, S4 TurboII