Low Oil Pressure
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Low Oil Pressure
Hi All,
The last few days I've noticed that the oil pressure is much lower than normal at normal operating temp. Although the engine seems to run fine.
I've also noticed that oil pressure wanders at steady speed. Oil pressure rarely goes over 30 psi - sometimes as low as 10psi at 2000rpm's - sometimes as much as 30psi.
Any ideas of what's wrong will be most appreciated.
#3
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Have you verified this condition with another gauge? The stock sender has a habit of failing, resulting in a low reading. It's best not to drive the car until you have this problem taken care of.
Also, if you do a search for "oil pressure", you should find lots of info. This was a very common topic about a month ago.
Also, if you do a search for "oil pressure", you should find lots of info. This was a very common topic about a month ago.
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I had the same issue about 5 months ago. I decided it wasn't that big of a deal and about 2 weeks after i noticed the problem i blew the rear oil control seal that goes on the e-shaft and the rear rotor housing. Basically i needed to rebuild that.
So it could be that your oil seals are on their way out, OR you coud possible have a bad oil pressure sender. But i'd go with my first guess. Start saving your pennies for a new gauge or a rebuild.
Also, Might wanna give me the specs on your engine as in mileage and history, Thanks bud,
Matt
So it could be that your oil seals are on their way out, OR you coud possible have a bad oil pressure sender. But i'd go with my first guess. Start saving your pennies for a new gauge or a rebuild.
Also, Might wanna give me the specs on your engine as in mileage and history, Thanks bud,
Matt
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Bad oil seals will not cause low oil pressure.
Verify with another gauge before you assume the worst. If the pressure is truly low, then it's likely the o-ring in the front cover (search).
Verify with another gauge before you assume the worst. If the pressure is truly low, then it's likely the o-ring in the front cover (search).
#6
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It's wierd because the symptom comes & goes. I agree with the sender replacement first idea... Hummmm, it didn't do it before I steam cleaned the engine. Maybe I should replace the sender? Are they expensive??
Thanks, Joe
Thanks, Joe
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#9
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it means you have an oil leak. fix it, then see if you still have pressure problems.
joe- you do have oil in your engine, right?
check it with an accurate guage ASAP. if a good guage reads the same, don't drive another mile till its fixed. if the good guage reads normal, just get a new sending unit. i have one, 5 bucks plus shipping and its yours.
joe- you do have oil in your engine, right?
check it with an accurate guage ASAP. if a good guage reads the same, don't drive another mile till its fixed. if the good guage reads normal, just get a new sending unit. i have one, 5 bucks plus shipping and its yours.
#10
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Originally Posted by marlaman
I decided it wasn't that big of a deal and about 2 weeks after i noticed the problem i blew the rear oil control seal that goes on the e-shaft and the rear rotor housing.
You mean the rear rotor?
-Ted
#14
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Originally Posted by Joe_Cannon
Thanks all,
If I had seen Patman's reply earlier - I wouldn't has spent 30+ $ on a new sender... Oh well.
Thanks again.
If I had seen Patman's reply earlier - I wouldn't has spent 30+ $ on a new sender... Oh well.
Thanks again.
$30 for a new one?
Damn where at? I thought they were like $75, I tried two different used ones, both of them had isues
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I bought it @ Auto Parts Place. It delivered today. & I need to ask another question.
Should I prep the threads with anything??? Like plumbers tape or Loctite, or ??? I have the Haynes manual but I haven't found any info other than a pic of the sender. BTW - the old sensor came out with a lot of resistance (hard to turn) & the threads look like they have been "gooped" with something.
Thanks, Joe
Should I prep the threads with anything??? Like plumbers tape or Loctite, or ??? I have the Haynes manual but I haven't found any info other than a pic of the sender. BTW - the old sensor came out with a lot of resistance (hard to turn) & the threads look like they have been "gooped" with something.
Thanks, Joe
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you dont't need to prep them, but it is also not a bad idea. a little bit of teflon is what i use.
pat
ps ted rear main as in rear main seal. you know all kinds of **** how can you not know this? rear main seal is the big oil seal on the eccentric shaft (or crankshaft in a boinger) tright where it comes out of the back of the engine and hits the flywheel. actually on a 7, the seal rides on the flywheel.
pat
ps ted rear main as in rear main seal. you know all kinds of **** how can you not know this? rear main seal is the big oil seal on the eccentric shaft (or crankshaft in a boinger) tright where it comes out of the back of the engine and hits the flywheel. actually on a 7, the seal rides on the flywheel.
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Now that I put my glasses on - & checked the old sensors threads under a bright light - the goop on the threads looks a lot like Permatex Ultra Blue.
Joe
Joe
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Thanks PatMan & all,
So, if I can prep the sensors threads with teflon tape - I take it that the sensor doesn't need contact to the block to ground???
Thanks again, Joe
So, if I can prep the sensors threads with teflon tape - I take it that the sensor doesn't need contact to the block to ground???
Thanks again, Joe
#19
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Originally Posted by patman
ps ted rear main as in rear main seal. you know all kinds of **** how can you not know this? rear main seal is the big oil seal on the eccentric shaft (or crankshaft in a boinger) tright where it comes out of the back of the engine and hits the flywheel. actually on a 7, the seal rides on the flywheel.
Your reference to the e-shaft got me all confused!
Technically, the rear main oil seal still doesn't touch the e-shaft.
-Ted
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[quote/]Thanks PatMan & all,
So, if I can prep the sensors threads with teflon tape - I take it that the sensor doesn't need contact to the block to ground???
Thanks again, Joe[/quote]
damn...ya know..i never really thought of that... yes, it does need the block to ground... i have teflon'd a couple, tho...i guess they must be touching somewhere....
yeah...now that i think about that....just screw it in there... it is a tapered brass fittinganyway, so it will seal fine.
pat
So, if I can prep the sensors threads with teflon tape - I take it that the sensor doesn't need contact to the block to ground???
Thanks again, Joe[/quote]
damn...ya know..i never really thought of that... yes, it does need the block to ground... i have teflon'd a couple, tho...i guess they must be touching somewhere....
yeah...now that i think about that....just screw it in there... it is a tapered brass fittinganyway, so it will seal fine.
pat
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Woo Hoo!!! Thanks everybody!!!
Done deal. Installed new sensor and added a bit of teflon tape today - before I read Patman's last post...
Anyway, all's well. Oil pressure now reads about 30psi @ idle & 60psi @ 2500rpm's. No leaks - cold. What a relief!!! Can't wait drive it to work tomorrow.
Joe
Done deal. Installed new sensor and added a bit of teflon tape today - before I read Patman's last post...
Anyway, all's well. Oil pressure now reads about 30psi @ idle & 60psi @ 2500rpm's. No leaks - cold. What a relief!!! Can't wait drive it to work tomorrow.
Joe
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