Ok so i have a 89 TII stock except for emissions removal and exhaust....well the other day the check engine light came on and then went back off after like 20 secs...its been doing this now for like 2 days...and seems to runs weird at wot at higher rpms....so i pulled the codes and here they are

11
13
17
25
30
31
32
33
42

i kno some of these are emissions related but not sure about all of them...and i have a exhaust leak before the o2 sensor could that cause some of them??

any help would be greatly appreciated!!

thanx

 

did you do any emission removal?

 

yes all emissions are removed....but that dosent explain 11,13,17....car runs real good so i dnt see how i have broken wires for the pressure sensor....and i dont know where the intake air temp sensor is

 

the intake air temp sensor is on the tb elbow under the intercooler
code 17 might have something to do with the exhaust leak before the o2

 

thats the one wire sensor? and if im throwing a code for the pressure sensor what would a bad one make my car run like?

 

that one wire on the downpipe should be the o2 sensor.
If the pressure sensor is bad, according to the fsm, it says that the ecu will default to 29.9inhg which is about 14psi. So your car will run rich.

 

ya i kno the o2 is one wire but is the intake are temp one wire also? my car has been getting like 10 mpg.... also it hesitates real bad at high rpms in 3rd and almost wont even go to redline in 4th gear like its banging out....it has a full tune up

 

air temp sensor has two wires. Its the only sensor on the TB elbow.
Also that hesitation at high rpms is probably due to being rich which is caused by the bad Pressure sensor, and air temp sensor, since it also regulates how much gas goes into the engine.

 

anyway to test a pressure sensor with a digital multimeter? or the air sensor also?

 

just found that my vac line goin to my pressure sensor dosent have a restrictor pill in it...would this cause the code for the pressure sensor?

 

for the air sensor you would need something to heat up the sensor, a thermosensor to read the temperature of the heat from the heat source and of course a multimeter.
at 68F it should read 37,350 - 45,650 ohms
at 122F 10600 - 13,040 ohms
185F 3150-3859 ohms

as for the pressure sensor you need to disconnect the vacuum line and plug, apply 100mmhg or 3.9inhg to the sensor, turn ignition switch on, and read the voltage from pin D
it should be 1.9-2.1 voltage at 100mmhg


The restrictor pill is for smoothing out the incoming air so the sensor wont be reading the wrong amount, and then sends it to the ecu.
Not having it might be the problem you have because the voltage will fluctuates.

 

ok cool goin to mazda tomorrow to get my seatbelts fixed and order a restrictor pill....then to autozone for some downpipe nuts and a universal o2 sensor!!!

thanx for all the help man!

 

Let us know how it goes...I'm having somewhat of the same issue as you. If the pill solves it I'll be pretty stoked

 

sure thing^^

 

never got around to fixing these...just gonna buy some known good ones i guess....

 

did you check to see if those sensors were getting proper volts?

 

check your ecu ground under the intercooler on the top of the engine block. then again i'm thinking the lack of the restrictor pill going to the pressure sensor may be the cause of the misfiring and running rich, now I know on my own turbo II I need to go back and install that!

 

installed the pill and cleaned up and put extra grounds and reset the ecu and let it run for like 20 min just idle mostly and some revs but no driving and then i rechecked the codes and didnt get the ait or pressure sensor code...do you have to put the car under load for these to show up or have i maybe fixed my problem?