hmm this is very odd indeed im watching this thread, any one have ideas ?

 

anyone have any other ideas? this was my dd so im kinda waiting to do something to it, the motor is out and ready to pull apart , i forgot to mention i had lost some oil pressure at one point it never dropped below 20 though, but added oil and its been fine (found out that i have a bad front line for my oil cooler,but i need to know if 60 in the front is ok and to just fin out what happen witht he rear or do i need to attack the front rotor as well?

 

is it possible to reuse my water jacket seals at all? 1400 miles on the rebuild

 

Sounds like you put the rear rotor in backwards. I'm only mention this is because I seen it first hand on my buddies motor. The symptoms he had sounds like yours. I remember he called Atkins for advice and believe it or not Dave said it sounded like a backwards rotor. He was like WFT?!? no way. He pulled it and cracked it....what do you know.

I hope this didnt happen to you, but think about it you put the front rotor with the stationary gear down, and when you get to the rear, you put it down the same way, not thinking about it (the beer is flowing, the weed is burning).

If its out, crack it open. I know it gets frustrating, but cracking it open would tell all the answers.

Good luck and hopefully my suggestion is wrong.

 

but then how would my motor have run really strong and really great for the first 1k miles? but ima crack it open today

 

How the hell would someone put a rear rotor backwards?! Is that even possible?

Do not reuse the water seals. And yes the corner seals do make a difference. I've read mixed opinions (do some searching) regarding solid corner seals.

 

well i did somemore searching and found out that improper side seal to corner seal clearance can cause binding and substantial lower compression, that would most likely answer why my comp is so low and not blown, can anyone help me figure out how to properly measure them and clearance them( i forgot that i never put them back in their respective places i just put them in at random

 

i read that the side seals can expand pushing into the corner seals and thats why your suppopes to have the right clearance, my gues is when i finished breaking her in , and drove harder the extra heat at the higher rpm caused the extra expansion of side seals ,causing a stuck seal, i remeber one day she satrted on one rotor and ran for a min then i turned her off and started her again and she ran fine, i say this cause i never had the side seal put bak in in their respective places, i just randomly put them back in,as far as the corner seals being solid, they dont seal as well below 1800 rpm, but thats fine with me. i have a rather large street port slightly larger than the templates they sell for an NA street port, im just going to re-rebuild my motor and do everything alot more detailed, and go from there, any other suggestions,?

thanks for everyones replies mean alot that you guys / and or gals with help me, if i ever get to met any of you, i will buy you lunch perhaps, DGRR or sevenstock.

 

I SPUN A ROTOR BEARING!!! somehow i spun a rotor bearing and it walked forward halfway out of the rotor and pushed the rotor back agianst the rear iron slightly distorting the face of the rotor keeping the side seals and corner seals compressed, there for no comp, and the e-shaft aparently got pulled a bit and ate up half the rotor bearing on the front rotor and slightly did the same thing, all seals are ok, except the side seals they broke coming out( only the rear broke all of the front side seals are ok), but everything else was fine, apex seals were peachy keen, no damage on housings or Irons, so , i need 2 rotors and an eshaft(myne got scored by the spun / seaized rear bearing. will have pics up tonight.,

 

stupid question .. but did you check for vac leaks before testing ?

 

well nevermind then lol