Lost ALL my oil while driving....
10-26-04, 02:49 PM
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Lost ALL my oil while driving....
I guys,
So, I was driving around today and the car was running very good (dyno'ed last saturday, will post dyno sheet as soon as possible).
Then, while at a traffic light I glanced at my oil pressure gauge and it showed 0 psi; I know this gauges tend to read kinda low while at idle, but I always check my oil level and oil pressure is normally at 60+ by 3k. So, I gave it a little bit of gas, but the gauge didn't move. It turned out I had lost ALL of my oil due to some oil line that has gone booom near the oil cooler. Car is currently at the shop for repairs.
Now the big question: how can I know if something else has been damaged? Is there anyway to diagnose without having to open the engine? I was thinking maybe the engine and turbo shafts may suffer due to lack of lubrication? I know that like 5-8 mins before, the oil pressure was fine; prior to turning off the engine the coolant temp was normal and I didn't notice anything strange like hesitation, vibrations or noises.
Engine is a J-Spec 318 with around 2,000 miles since the rebuild. I have the original OMPs working but I add about 2oz of 2 Stroke oil per gas tank just to be on the safe side.
Any inputs are greatly apreciated.
Best regards
Alejandro
So, I was driving around today and the car was running very good (dyno'ed last saturday, will post dyno sheet as soon as possible).
Then, while at a traffic light I glanced at my oil pressure gauge and it showed 0 psi; I know this gauges tend to read kinda low while at idle, but I always check my oil level and oil pressure is normally at 60+ by 3k. So, I gave it a little bit of gas, but the gauge didn't move. It turned out I had lost ALL of my oil due to some oil line that has gone booom near the oil cooler. Car is currently at the shop for repairs.
Now the big question: how can I know if something else has been damaged? Is there anyway to diagnose without having to open the engine? I was thinking maybe the engine and turbo shafts may suffer due to lack of lubrication? I know that like 5-8 mins before, the oil pressure was fine; prior to turning off the engine the coolant temp was normal and I didn't notice anything strange like hesitation, vibrations or noises.
Engine is a J-Spec 318 with around 2,000 miles since the rebuild. I have the original OMPs working but I add about 2oz of 2 Stroke oil per gas tank just to be on the safe side.
Any inputs are greatly apreciated.
Best regards
Alejandro
10-26-04, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by domyalex
I guys,
So, I was driving around today and the car was running very good (dyno'ed last saturday, will post dyno sheet as soon as possible).
Then, while at a traffic light I glanced at my oil pressure gauge and it showed 0 psi; I know this gauges tend to read kinda low while at idle, but I always check my oil level and oil pressure is normally at 60+ by 3k. So, I gave it a little bit of gas, but the gauge didn't move. It turned out I had lost ALL of my oil due to some oil line that has gone booom near the oil cooler. Car is currently at the shop for repairs.
Now the big question: how can I know if something else has been damaged? Is there anyway to diagnose without having to open the engine? I was thinking maybe the engine and turbo shafts may suffer due to lack of lubrication? I know that like 5-8 mins before, the oil pressure was fine; prior to turning off the engine the coolant temp was normal and I didn't notice anything strange like hesitation, vibrations or noises.
Engine is a J-Spec 318 with around 2,000 miles since the rebuild. I have the original OMPs working but I add about 2oz of 2 Stroke oil per gas tank just to be on the safe side.
Any inputs are greatly apreciated.
Best regards
Alejandro
So, I was driving around today and the car was running very good (dyno'ed last saturday, will post dyno sheet as soon as possible).
Then, while at a traffic light I glanced at my oil pressure gauge and it showed 0 psi; I know this gauges tend to read kinda low while at idle, but I always check my oil level and oil pressure is normally at 60+ by 3k. So, I gave it a little bit of gas, but the gauge didn't move. It turned out I had lost ALL of my oil due to some oil line that has gone booom near the oil cooler. Car is currently at the shop for repairs.
Now the big question: how can I know if something else has been damaged? Is there anyway to diagnose without having to open the engine? I was thinking maybe the engine and turbo shafts may suffer due to lack of lubrication? I know that like 5-8 mins before, the oil pressure was fine; prior to turning off the engine the coolant temp was normal and I didn't notice anything strange like hesitation, vibrations or noises.
Engine is a J-Spec 318 with around 2,000 miles since the rebuild. I have the original OMPs working but I add about 2oz of 2 Stroke oil per gas tank just to be on the safe side.
Any inputs are greatly apreciated.
Best regards
Alejandro
How long did you drive without oil pressure? Hear any strange noises? Anything feel different? If a cooler line popped you probably didn't lose ALL of your oil, but lots. If nothing sounded/felt different, chances are everything is fine.
10-26-04, 03:45 PM
#3
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Well the premix might have helped a little. Plus if you didn't drive it after you noticed the low oil pressure its probably going to be ok. Does the 7 seven have an idiot light for low oil pressure?
10-26-04, 03:48 PM
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Pull the oil filter, cut it in half and check for metal. When you drain the oil, drain it through a coffee filter and check for metal.
If the engine ran for only a few minutes at idle without any oil pressure, it should be fine.
BTW, fix your low oil level sender. As soon as the level dropped, you should have been jarred to attention by the very loud buzzer.
If the engine ran for only a few minutes at idle without any oil pressure, it should be fine.
BTW, fix your low oil level sender. As soon as the level dropped, you should have been jarred to attention by the very loud buzzer.
10-26-04, 03:50 PM
#5
IF you lost all your oil to the point that the bearings ran dry, the engine would have locked up. It would sound funny when starting and run...oddly, with lack of power and perhaps even a sound like "rod knock" above 3krpm.
Yes, I've seen this done.
You have a low oil light and buzer on the car, it is so equipped for this very reason. Most other cars dont have oil coolers, lines, etc. to fail like ours do, so they don't have these features either. If the buzzer didnt go off, then you never got below 3 quarts low.
Yes, I've seen this done.
You have a low oil light and buzer on the car, it is so equipped for this very reason. Most other cars dont have oil coolers, lines, etc. to fail like ours do, so they don't have these features either. If the buzzer didnt go off, then you never got below 3 quarts low.
10-26-04, 03:51 PM
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Since I saw 0 psi and realized it wasn't rising when I gave it a little bit of gas, I drove probably 200-300 meters (600-900 feet) to find a parking spot and turned it off. I don't know how long I had 0 psi, I know 5-8 minutes earlier it was just normal.
I really "baby" my car, I'm always listening to any kind of different noises but now I couldn't find anything strange; vibrations were normal as well as idle. No smokes from engine bay nor any sign of overheating.
My oil stick, however, came out clean as a baby ****.....
Needless to say, I called a tow truck to bring the car to the shop.
Oil "was" Castrol GTX 20-50 with around 800 miles on it <sigh>.
My center dash has probably a false ground as some of the lights ain't working. I know the Add Coolant buzzer works (goshhh!!), but I never saw/heard any warning light.
I'll cut the oil filter and see if there's metal in it.
I really "baby" my car, I'm always listening to any kind of different noises but now I couldn't find anything strange; vibrations were normal as well as idle. No smokes from engine bay nor any sign of overheating.
My oil stick, however, came out clean as a baby ****.....
Needless to say, I called a tow truck to bring the car to the shop.
Oil "was" Castrol GTX 20-50 with around 800 miles on it <sigh>.
My center dash has probably a false ground as some of the lights ain't working. I know the Add Coolant buzzer works (goshhh!!), but I never saw/heard any warning light.
I'll cut the oil filter and see if there's metal in it.
Last edited by domyalex; 10-26-04 at 03:55 PM.
10-26-04, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Kingofl337
Well the premix might have helped a little. Plus if you didn't drive it after you noticed the low oil pressure its probably going to be ok. Does the 7 seven have an idiot light for low oil pressure?
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10-26-04, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
IF you lost all your oil to the point that the bearings ran dry, the engine would have locked up. It would sound funny when starting and run...oddly, with lack of power and perhaps even a sound like "rod knock" above 3krpm.
Yes, I've seen this done.
You have a low oil light and buzer on the car, it is so equipped for this very reason. Most other cars dont have oil coolers, lines, etc. to fail like ours do, so they don't have these features either. If the buzzer didnt go off, then you never got below 3 quarts low.
Yes, I've seen this done.
You have a low oil light and buzer on the car, it is so equipped for this very reason. Most other cars dont have oil coolers, lines, etc. to fail like ours do, so they don't have these features either. If the buzzer didnt go off, then you never got below 3 quarts low.
10-26-04, 04:15 PM
#11
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I think it was Icemark that said we should check the operation of that level sensor during every oil change. Sounds like a damn good idea to me, I just wish I could remember to check it during the oil change, lol...
Mine worked a couple of years ago when my cooler hose blew on the freeway- that bastard gets your attention REAL quick
Mine worked a couple of years ago when my cooler hose blew on the freeway- that bastard gets your attention REAL quick
10-26-04, 04:21 PM
#12
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
Edit: is that silverrotors old motor? 
10-26-04, 04:30 PM
#13
Banned
Like it's stated above, you should be fine. I ran my jeep for about 2 miles w/o oil pressure(sending unit took a ****), and it was fine. Then four weeks later, the sending unit fucked up and engine went kaboom.
10-26-04, 06:23 PM
#16
Laying Down Rotary Law
same thing happened to me less then a month ago
Just had a fresh motor in
went for a test drive
got to a light noticed no oil
damm! there was heavy traffic and was in a bad spot where there was no where to pull over....Well I drove slowly for a few miles and then bang! engine locked up
I have the oil going thru a oil pedestal instead thru the dowl ports
oil hose came off the AN fitting
The front bearing got locked onto the shaft
had to replace the e-shaft
the thrust plate, needle bearings, spacer, washers etc
there was not too many copper shavings in the oil pan
the other bearings did not cut thru to the copper
but I replaced all the rotor and stationay bearings
anyways
I'm closing the new motor this week
and getting the oil hose done by a hydraulic shop instead of a DIY
The kicker was getting the front housing and rotor off
mayor pita
Just had a fresh motor in
went for a test drive
got to a light noticed no oil
damm! there was heavy traffic and was in a bad spot where there was no where to pull over....Well I drove slowly for a few miles and then bang! engine locked up
I have the oil going thru a oil pedestal instead thru the dowl ports
oil hose came off the AN fitting
The front bearing got locked onto the shaft
had to replace the e-shaft
the thrust plate, needle bearings, spacer, washers etc
there was not too many copper shavings in the oil pan
the other bearings did not cut thru to the copper
but I replaced all the rotor and stationay bearings
anyways
I'm closing the new motor this week
and getting the oil hose done by a hydraulic shop instead of a DIY
The kicker was getting the front housing and rotor off
mayor pita
10-27-04, 08:15 AM
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Thx for all the replies guys.
We drained the oil that was left in the pan and filtered it using a piece of cloth; no signs of any metallic residue.
The guy at the shop (who's the same that rebuild the engine) says he wants to put new oil and then check again for metalic stuff.. [crossing fingers!]
I'll keep you updated as things go on...
We drained the oil that was left in the pan and filtered it using a piece of cloth; no signs of any metallic residue.
The guy at the shop (who's the same that rebuild the engine) says he wants to put new oil and then check again for metalic stuff.. [crossing fingers!]
I'll keep you updated as things go on...
10-27-04, 08:28 AM
#19
You can always go back to the traffic light where you noticed the zero oil pressure and look on the ground.
If there is 2 or 3 quarts of oil all over the road, then the line went when you were standing still - and there should be no real harm.
If there is a bit of oil on the ground and a trail leading up to it, you lost the line while driving, and most of the oil will be on the road a mile earlier and all over the bottom of the car.
If the road is completely dry of oil - then there was nothing leaking when you came to a stop and all the oil was lost when you were driving.
Take a look under the car as well. Assuming that you had no previous oil leaks, you can get some clues as to when the hose blew. The faster/longer you drove with the hose leaking - the more oil you'll see couvering the bottom of the car, and the farther back you'll find it. If the car was stationary when the hiose went, all the leaked oil will be found local to that problem.
Good luck!
If there is 2 or 3 quarts of oil all over the road, then the line went when you were standing still - and there should be no real harm.
If there is a bit of oil on the ground and a trail leading up to it, you lost the line while driving, and most of the oil will be on the road a mile earlier and all over the bottom of the car.
If the road is completely dry of oil - then there was nothing leaking when you came to a stop and all the oil was lost when you were driving.
Take a look under the car as well. Assuming that you had no previous oil leaks, you can get some clues as to when the hose blew. The faster/longer you drove with the hose leaking - the more oil you'll see couvering the bottom of the car, and the farther back you'll find it. If the car was stationary when the hiose went, all the leaked oil will be found local to that problem.
Good luck!
10-27-04, 12:15 PM
#20
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Originally Posted by domyalex
Thx for all the replies guys.
We drained the oil that was left in the pan and filtered it using a piece of cloth; no signs of any metallic residue.
The guy at the shop (who's the same that rebuild the engine) says he wants to put new oil and then check again for metalic stuff.. [crossing fingers!]
I'll keep you updated as things go on...
We drained the oil that was left in the pan and filtered it using a piece of cloth; no signs of any metallic residue.
The guy at the shop (who's the same that rebuild the engine) says he wants to put new oil and then check again for metalic stuff.. [crossing fingers!]
I'll keep you updated as things go on...
I had a customer motor let go when the OPR fell out in the rear iron.
It spun all the bearings.
Bearing material was in the oil pan in little *****.
-Ted
10-27-04, 01:58 PM
#21
Originally Posted by domyalex
I guys,
So, I was driving around today and the car was running very good (dyno'ed last saturday, will post dyno sheet as soon as possible).
Then, while at a traffic light I glanced at my oil pressure gauge and it showed 0 psi; I know this gauges tend to read kinda low while at idle, but I always check my oil level and oil pressure is normally at 60+ by 3k. So, I gave it a little bit of gas, but the gauge didn't move. It turned out I had lost ALL of my oil due to some oil line that has gone booom near the oil cooler. Car is currently at the shop for repairs.
Now the big question: how can I know if something else has been damaged? Is there anyway to diagnose without having to open the engine? I was thinking maybe the engine and turbo shafts may suffer due to lack of lubrication? I know that like 5-8 mins before, the oil pressure was fine; prior to turning off the engine the coolant temp was normal and I didn't notice anything strange like hesitation, vibrations or noises.
Engine is a J-Spec 318 with around 2,000 miles since the rebuild. I have the original OMPs working but I add about 2oz of 2 Stroke oil per gas tank just to be on the safe side.
Any inputs are greatly apreciated.
Best regards
Alejandro
So, I was driving around today and the car was running very good (dyno'ed last saturday, will post dyno sheet as soon as possible).
Then, while at a traffic light I glanced at my oil pressure gauge and it showed 0 psi; I know this gauges tend to read kinda low while at idle, but I always check my oil level and oil pressure is normally at 60+ by 3k. So, I gave it a little bit of gas, but the gauge didn't move. It turned out I had lost ALL of my oil due to some oil line that has gone booom near the oil cooler. Car is currently at the shop for repairs.
Now the big question: how can I know if something else has been damaged? Is there anyway to diagnose without having to open the engine? I was thinking maybe the engine and turbo shafts may suffer due to lack of lubrication? I know that like 5-8 mins before, the oil pressure was fine; prior to turning off the engine the coolant temp was normal and I didn't notice anything strange like hesitation, vibrations or noises.
Engine is a J-Spec 318 with around 2,000 miles since the rebuild. I have the original OMPs working but I add about 2oz of 2 Stroke oil per gas tank just to be on the safe side.
Any inputs are greatly apreciated.
Best regards
Alejandro
Same **** happen to me, although I knew the line was bsuted and I kept going!!
Results?
-Spun rotor bearing
-Burned rear end plate and mid plate
10-28-04, 08:16 AM
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Update:
The shop finished the repairs, changed the upper oil line to the oil cooler; they made a clear point that I should also replace the lower line as soon as I can, just to be safe.
Now the bad part: I replaced spark plugs and wires last week, car was veeeery smooth and idle stable. Now I can feel some small vibrations that definetly weren't there before and idle bounces a little bit (say +- 100 rpm). Also the car has a weird hesitation while on WOT in 1st gear (it isn't the 3800 stuff, is more like random at various points). Weirder still, such hesitations doesn't appear while in 2nd and 3rd gear. After a short aceleration, I could see smoke coming from my exhaust, but after driving normal for a couple of smile I stopped to check, and no more smoke...
I kept the old oil filter; this weekend I'll cut it and see if there's anything inside. Also the shop suggested me replacing the new oil and oil filter they put in 1-2 weeks, just to be safe.
Any suggestions? This hesitation stuff is really worrying me now...
The shop finished the repairs, changed the upper oil line to the oil cooler; they made a clear point that I should also replace the lower line as soon as I can, just to be safe.
Now the bad part: I replaced spark plugs and wires last week, car was veeeery smooth and idle stable. Now I can feel some small vibrations that definetly weren't there before and idle bounces a little bit (say +- 100 rpm). Also the car has a weird hesitation while on WOT in 1st gear (it isn't the 3800 stuff, is more like random at various points). Weirder still, such hesitations doesn't appear while in 2nd and 3rd gear. After a short aceleration, I could see smoke coming from my exhaust, but after driving normal for a couple of smile I stopped to check, and no more smoke...
I kept the old oil filter; this weekend I'll cut it and see if there's anything inside. Also the shop suggested me replacing the new oil and oil filter they put in 1-2 weeks, just to be safe.
Any suggestions? This hesitation stuff is really worrying me now...
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