2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Look at my beautiful rotors!!

Old Nov 5, 2007 | 09:21 PM
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Look at my beautiful rotors!!



No, those aren't new. They actually came out of an auto-equipped car with 100k miles on it.
I realize most people probably know that you can clean rotors, but I just had no idea how well they could be cleaned up. Carb cleaner and some elbow grease goes a long way

They looked something like this when they came out:
Attached Thumbnails Look at my beautiful rotors!!-hpim1407crop.jpg   Look at my beautiful rotors!!-hpim0190crop.jpg  

Last edited by Sideways7; Nov 5, 2007 at 09:30 PM.
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 09:23 PM
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dude.... how do they work triangle shaped like that? mine are round
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 09:24 PM
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Those do look new, dont even think my low mileage jdm s5 turbo rotors look that good.
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 09:27 PM
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They were soaked in carb cleaner for about 36 hours (probably overkill), periodically taking them out to brush them to break up the carbon. Then I put them in a hot, soapy water bath to get all the carb cleaner off, then I dried them and put PB blaster on them to prevent flash rusting.
I learned about it from the Bruce Turrentine (sp?) rebuild video at www.rotaryaviation.com. Except he didn't say anything about the flash rusting....
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 09:28 PM
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nicee
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 09:33 PM
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Where are the pistons.
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Sideways7
No, those aren't new. They actually came out of an auto-equipped car with 100k miles on it.
I got that far and still didn't see the second picture yet, so I thought they came out looking like the first. I was filled with the urge to cause you pain for the unfairness of the universe, considerring the lengths I go to to keep my rotors free of any kind of buildup.

Lookin' pretty though, btw
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 09:47 PM
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Great work!
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 09:51 PM
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Thanks, I get a warm, fuzzy feeling every time I look at them.
Hopefully, I can start putting the engine back together soon. Its been right at 2 years since I tore the motor apart, and I finally have the money to get it rebuilt!

I plan on having a build-up thread detailing the trials and tribulations of this car and its engines(this will be its fourth since I bought it), but I just couldn't wait to post these pics. I took them out a few hours ago and it just blew me away.

Last edited by Sideways7; Nov 5, 2007 at 10:08 PM.
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 03:33 AM
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I found out years ago about the flash rusting. I had cleaned a pair of rotors up real nice, dried them with compressed air and put them in large ziploc bags to keep dust off them. I went to get them out to spec them a few days later and they were already pitting from surface rust, I guess just from the moisture in the air that was in the bag!....needless to say I was livid!....these days I use Vaseline or Blaster until I'm ready to assemble. Your rotors look grand. Keep us informed on your build.
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 04:18 AM
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hawwwwt.
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 07:52 AM
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Luckily I had read on the can of carb cleaner that you had to put penetrating oil on all cast parts. I didn't realize how fast it would do it, though. As soon as I dried it off with the compressed air, I could start to see a bit of rust. I immediately grabbed my PB Blaster and sprayed it down, then wiped it off and resprayed it.
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 09:39 AM
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Then I put them in a hot, soapy water bath
oooh, me next...

They look great. Get em balanced!
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 09:46 AM
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How neccesary is balancing the rotating assembly if everything came out of the same engine?
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 10:02 AM
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not a neccesity per say, but mazda allows a 50gram difference in rotor weight (per rotor).

If you balance the assembly, you can really increase your reliabilty and power up in higher RPMs. Imagine if the rotors where only 5 grams outta spec...
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 08:33 PM
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mine are just as good. I'll post pictures up here soon to show you. I think they look pretty good.
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Old Nov 7, 2007 | 06:09 PM
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The rule of thumb is to use rotor pairs whos weight stamp is within one letter of the other. Not exactly a true balance, but within oem tolerance.
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Old Nov 7, 2007 | 06:13 PM
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Since they came from the same engine, I would hope they are within 1 letter stamp.....
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Old Nov 7, 2007 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Sideways7
Since they came from the same engine, I would hope they are within 1 letter stamp.....
There are plenty of mix n' match amateur engines out there. I found a few getting parts for my FC.
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Old Nov 7, 2007 | 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by alexdimen
There are plenty of mix n' match amateur engines out there. I found a few getting parts for my FC.
No, I was the first person to ever tear down this engine. It was still factory sealed when I got it.

Just for kicks, though, how do you determine the weight stamp? There's stuff stamped all over the place on my rotors. On one the only one I could make out was a C, but on the other I found a D and an E.
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Old Nov 7, 2007 | 08:59 PM
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The weight will be on the rotor gear side only.
Thanks Robert
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Old Nov 7, 2007 | 09:35 PM
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Ok, its C and D then. Thanks for the info.
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 11:30 AM
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ahhh...wish mine looked that nice. lol
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 11:56 AM
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Wow mine didnt look that nice even after putting them through a brand new parts washer. Mine were trashed too though so it didnt matter.
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 12:14 PM
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Well, a parts washer only does so much. I ran it though one too, and they still looked brownish. It took actually soaking them in carb cleaner to get them this way.
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