Lol... I love zipties. (or, how to fix a bad hatch release)
#1
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
Lol... I love zipties. (or, how to fix a bad hatch release)
It finally struck me that if you I just put a spacer on the cable for the hatch release (rather than trying to readjust the latches and release timing), it would work like it's supposed to...
Sooo... I put a zip tie onto the cable and now the release works perfectly.
The hard part is that when you adjust the locks to be nice and low (meaning the hatch is nice and tight when it's closed), it doesn't want to open, and I have to pry the hatch open. I figure this is due to the old shocks (which will lift the hatch up but won't even begin to pop it out out of position if it's close against the hatch seals.
Sooo... I put a zip tie onto the cable and now the release works perfectly.
The hard part is that when you adjust the locks to be nice and low (meaning the hatch is nice and tight when it's closed), it doesn't want to open, and I have to pry the hatch open. I figure this is due to the old shocks (which will lift the hatch up but won't even begin to pop it out out of position if it's close against the hatch seals.
#4
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
Hatch seals aren't sticking.
I lubed them up with vegetable oil to make sure.
It's just that a degree or two will make a difference at whether it takes just a little shock force to open them up or a LOT of force (meaning prying directly on the hatch).
Probably because when the locks are in the bottom setting, the shocks become completely level and lose all their leverage.
It opens when I set them near the top setting, but it's more prone to extra noise.
New shocks may or may not fix it... I doubt they have 2X the power of the ones I have on there though (and they cost like 150 bucks a piece for OEM).
One possibility is that the latch timing is just a LITTLE off (before it was WAAAY off, now it's just a little off), but it's pretty hard to adjust since there's almost no freedom of movement (it's already in the max setting so it probably won't get any better with a spacer or something). And that's assuming that being 1/10 of a second off will cause the shock's force to not be enough to pop it open (unlikely).
I lubed them up with vegetable oil to make sure.
It's just that a degree or two will make a difference at whether it takes just a little shock force to open them up or a LOT of force (meaning prying directly on the hatch).
Probably because when the locks are in the bottom setting, the shocks become completely level and lose all their leverage.
It opens when I set them near the top setting, but it's more prone to extra noise.
New shocks may or may not fix it... I doubt they have 2X the power of the ones I have on there though (and they cost like 150 bucks a piece for OEM).
One possibility is that the latch timing is just a LITTLE off (before it was WAAAY off, now it's just a little off), but it's pretty hard to adjust since there's almost no freedom of movement (it's already in the max setting so it probably won't get any better with a spacer or something). And that's assuming that being 1/10 of a second off will cause the shock's force to not be enough to pop it open (unlikely).
#5
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Melbourne, Florida
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I got the issue of my hatch not wanting to lock on both sides when I push it down. Also, my key use to work when opening, then out of nowhere it doesn't wanna work. It turns like 1/5th to the right, but won't release.
#7
FLY NAVY
iTrader: (1)
Valkyrie, i agree with you about the timing, i wish i had a pic, but its like the lock teeth are hooked on the latch even though they should go back into the recess. i dont know if this makes sense to you, but think of a C clamp rotated over a rod, when you release tension, its supossed to go off the rod, but hangs up. so when you pull up it clears and releases. Maybe lubing the locking mechnisms with graphite might help out.
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