http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...odes/main.html

 

If you checked these things, why didn't you say so before in your original thread instead of starting another one?

How did you "lean out" the timing? Are you sure you're checking the timing and not something else? (namely the variable resistor for idle mixture) Because to me in that video the way the car is running sounds like horribly adjusted timing...I could be wrong but when you say "when I lean out the timing" I get the feeling like you may not have checked it properly.

 

Exactly!

You can't lean out the timing. You can lean out the mixture, you can lean out the air flow through the throttle body... but you can't lean out the timing.

And timing sounds way way off in that video.

And why did you start another thread on this??? Instead of just posting what you did in the original thread???

And you need to described in the best possible detail exactly what you have done... leaning out the timing means nothing. What exactly did you adjust???

And the half dozen threads that you have started all on this same problem have been now merged into this thread.

 

my bad man i messed with the crank sensor

 

so...you messed with the crank sensor....?

What did you do?

did you pull the plugs on the front rotor visually get TDC (or damn close) and then check the fornt pulley and re-stab the CAS?

"messed with the crank sensor" is pretty vauge

 

Sounds to me like he could be running on one rotor, when my motor blew thats kinda what it sounded like. I would just check the compression on the engine to be safe what could it hurt your time?

 

Did you install a wrx engine?

 

reeeeeal helpful

 

+1

 

i put in a different crank sensor ill get some video of the crank sensor to show you guys were it set to my buddy had this motor in his car and he took it to mazda and they didnt fix anything

 

Do a compression test.

If that were my car i would get the compression check before i even ran it again...

If you are running on 1 rotor, then you could be destroying your internals by running it.. meaning you wont be able to rebuild without replacing a bunch of stuff.

 

when you blow a rotor the damage is done already, that is why people put rotary engines in aircraft so if you lose 1 rotor you still can run the motor on the second.

 

ill do a compression and shoot some video

 

Yeah but doesnt that put you at risk of doing more damage? Isnt it true that if you blow an apex seal and it doesnt come out clean you could be eating it inside the combustion chamber, causing more damage to the housing and rotor and possibly even the eccentric shaft? I heard it was just bad in general but thats just what i've heard... which means i have no idea. I've never blown or rebuilt one before but im quite paranoid of doing damage to my babies.

 

Stop shooting so much video, theres only so much you can tell from it. Your getting some of the best advice here, I would listen and try each suggestion out.

 

well putting it in doesn't mean its lined up correctly...

And don't think because the magical mazda dealership couldn't fix it that there's something impossible to fix on this car. Try taking in a 7 with idle problems.....they'll tell you it needs a new engine - My point is the mazda dealership shouldn't be used for repairs...just parts.

Now....for the love of god.....Im going to type this once more and only once more.....CHECK THE TIMING. Don't just slap another C.A.S. in there. Check the bloody timing, make sure its correct, adjust it if necesscary, then re-stab the C.A.S. I serisouly think its your problem but I you really don't seem to know how to check it....search around and you'll find lots of good info about it.

And also do the compression test, its quite possible that motor could be blown also...and Im sure your skill set can handle that one

And please...PLEASE....put some more detail into your posts!! The limited detail, run-on scentence responses your giving are just making it more frustrating and more difficult to tell what you've done.

 

all right ill get this **** done

 

click this link
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda...26653601QQrdZ1

problem solved!

 

chances of a seal coming out clean are low but it is possible. when i chipped a seal it came out clean but i still revved the hell out of that engine before i tore it apart with the chipped seal in place. if the seal grenades it will cause damage, if it chips it may not do any damage, either way the damage likely has already been done.

before tearing the motor apart i took the car out for a last run to try and find the issue, i could barely hear an audible detonation which is what i wanted to find before building the motor and finding out the hard way all over again that the stock microtech ignition maps are far too aggressive.

 

all right if i was running with a blown apex seal wouldnt it run like **** all the time

 

did you?

 

yea i timed it but it still does it sometimes all i need to do is the compression test

 

i pulled some codes and the only code that poped up 03 - Water thermo sensor.
DCC1: SSS P .... (3 short lights... long pause ... repeat)

 

im doing a comp test later today ... i was messing with the timeing cause its was still doing its little spuder and running way to rich so i timed it but now the idle went to **** .... so i took it out for a test drive when i got to about 4 grand in 1st and 2nd gear i let off in 3rd it make a wineing noise kind of like a supercharger... one more thing the trailing coil is always sparking i heard it sparked at like 3grand and above