Line Lock
Line Lock
02-13-04, 07:46 PM
#3
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Do you mean a proportioning valve, so you can shut off the back brakes?
If so:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/asp...qx/product.htm
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/asp...qx/product.htm
If so:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/asp...qx/product.htm
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/asp...qx/product.htm
02-13-04, 07:48 PM
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well .. the product is called a line lock.. but yeah, they lock the front breaks on and free up the back. And those products arent them ... but those are cool!
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02-13-04, 09:26 PM
#8
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A line lock is a remote electronic solenoid that can close a brake line system. How it usually works is you stand on the brakes as hard as you can, hit the switch on the line lock to close the solenoid, and then let go of the brakes. Now, your front brakes are "locked" and you can proceed to do your burn out - the locked front brakes keeps the car in place during the burn out.
Now, the stock FC brake system (non-ABS) runs three brake lines off the brake master cylinder. You need to clamp/install the line lock on the FRONT TWO LINES. The third brake line goes to both rear brakes. If you use only one line lock, you need to Y the front lines off the brake master cylinder and then split them back out to the brake calipers - this is a royal pain in the ***, and *I* feel it's unsafe and a bad way to compromise your braking system. What I recommend is to run TWO line locks for each front brake (caliper). This increases cost, but *I* feel it's a much better install. Cost is increased, as you need to buy two line locks. Just wire a single switch into both line locks for control.
-Ted
Now, the stock FC brake system (non-ABS) runs three brake lines off the brake master cylinder. You need to clamp/install the line lock on the FRONT TWO LINES. The third brake line goes to both rear brakes. If you use only one line lock, you need to Y the front lines off the brake master cylinder and then split them back out to the brake calipers - this is a royal pain in the ***, and *I* feel it's unsafe and a bad way to compromise your braking system. What I recommend is to run TWO line locks for each front brake (caliper). This increases cost, but *I* feel it's a much better install. Cost is increased, as you need to buy two line locks. Just wire a single switch into both line locks for control.
-Ted
02-13-04, 09:42 PM
#9
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Originally posted by RETed
A line lock is a remote electronic solenoid that can close a brake line system. How it usually works is you stand on the brakes as hard as you can, hit the switch on the line lock to close the solenoid, and then let go of the brakes. Now, your front brakes are "locked" and you can proceed to do your burn out - the locked front brakes keeps the car in place during the burn out.
Now, the stock FC brake system (non-ABS) runs three brake lines off the brake master cylinder. You need to clamp/install the line lock on the FRONT TWO LINES. The third brake line goes to both rear brakes. If you use only one line lock, you need to Y the front lines off the brake master cylinder and then split them back out to the brake calipers - this is a royal pain in the ***, and *I* feel it's unsafe and a bad way to compromise your braking system. What I recommend is to run TWO line locks for each front brake (caliper). This increases cost, but *I* feel it's a much better install. Cost is increased, as you need to buy two line locks. Just wire a single switch into both line locks for control.
-Ted
A line lock is a remote electronic solenoid that can close a brake line system. How it usually works is you stand on the brakes as hard as you can, hit the switch on the line lock to close the solenoid, and then let go of the brakes. Now, your front brakes are "locked" and you can proceed to do your burn out - the locked front brakes keeps the car in place during the burn out.
Now, the stock FC brake system (non-ABS) runs three brake lines off the brake master cylinder. You need to clamp/install the line lock on the FRONT TWO LINES. The third brake line goes to both rear brakes. If you use only one line lock, you need to Y the front lines off the brake master cylinder and then split them back out to the brake calipers - this is a royal pain in the ***, and *I* feel it's unsafe and a bad way to compromise your braking system. What I recommend is to run TWO line locks for each front brake (caliper). This increases cost, but *I* feel it's a much better install. Cost is increased, as you need to buy two line locks. Just wire a single switch into both line locks for control.
-Ted
02-14-04, 01:27 AM
#10
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Check out Summit Racing or Jegs for prices on the line lock; I think it's like $100 each?
If you can get the lines locally, it might be cheaper.
Summit Racing and Jegs both do offer relocation kits which are like $20 - $30 each.
You'll also need a double flare tool, and this can get expensive - I've priced them like around $100 for this tool. If you can borrow it from someone, that'll save you a lot of money. Oh, you also need a pipe cutter, but these you can get pretty cheap from like Home Depot.
-Ted
If you can get the lines locally, it might be cheaper.
Summit Racing and Jegs both do offer relocation kits which are like $20 - $30 each.
You'll also need a double flare tool, and this can get expensive - I've priced them like around $100 for this tool. If you can borrow it from someone, that'll save you a lot of money. Oh, you also need a pipe cutter, but these you can get pretty cheap from like Home Depot.
-Ted
02-14-04, 08:54 AM
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Why wouldn't you just use ONE of those proportioning vavle's and put it on your rear brake line. Then shut it off, and you only have front brakes....
Seems ALOT easier, and soounds cheaper. Plus one of those proportioning valves I posted has a cable that you can put on it, and you run the cable to the dash or were ever, and put the vavle under the car, or right off of the master cylinder....
Seems ALOT easier, and soounds cheaper. Plus one of those proportioning valves I posted has a cable that you can put on it, and you run the cable to the dash or were ever, and put the vavle under the car, or right off of the master cylinder....
02-14-04, 10:45 AM
#14
Originally posted by Cory Simpson
Uhhhmmm, drag racing is a "real" track.
And how do you know he wants if for drag racing?
Uhhhmmm, drag racing is a "real" track.
And how do you know he wants if for drag racing?
And what the hell else would you need a linelock for? Its used for burnouts once you pull out of the waterbox at the dragstrip...
02-14-04, 11:34 AM
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Originally posted by Cory Simpson
Why wouldn't you just use ONE of those proportioning vavle's and put it on your rear brake line. Then shut it off, and you only have front brakes....
Seems ALOT easier, and soounds cheaper. Plus one of those proportioning valves I posted has a cable that you can put on it, and you run the cable to the dash or were ever, and put the vavle under the car, or right off of the master cylinder....
Why wouldn't you just use ONE of those proportioning vavle's and put it on your rear brake line. Then shut it off, and you only have front brakes....
Seems ALOT easier, and soounds cheaper. Plus one of those proportioning valves I posted has a cable that you can put on it, and you run the cable to the dash or were ever, and put the vavle under the car, or right off of the master cylinder....
I know the wilwood, ****-style I installed on my FC can't.
02-14-04, 11:38 AM
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Originally posted by Cory Simpson
Uhhhmmm, drag racing is a "real" track.
And how do you know he wants if for drag racing?
Uhhhmmm, drag racing is a "real" track.
And how do you know he wants if for drag racing?
02-14-04, 03:43 PM
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This site isn't RX-7 related, but if you read it all the way through you should be able to get some good ideas on an installation. http://www.izook.com/reviews/safetyb...afetybrake.htm
I just went to my servers SEARCH engine and put in line lockers. I had not a clue what a line locker was prior to that. There's soooooooooo much out there on the web..................
I just went to my servers SEARCH engine and put in line lockers. I had not a clue what a line locker was prior to that. There's soooooooooo much out there on the web..................
02-14-04, 05:08 PM
#21
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Originally posted by HAILERS
This site isn't RX-7 related, but if you read it all the way through you should be able to get some good ideas on an installation. http://www.izook.com/reviews/safetyb...afetybrake.htm
I just went to my servers SEARCH engine and put in line lockers. I had not a clue what a line locker was prior to that. There's soooooooooo much out there on the web..................
This site isn't RX-7 related, but if you read it all the way through you should be able to get some good ideas on an installation. http://www.izook.com/reviews/safetyb...afetybrake.htm
I just went to my servers SEARCH engine and put in line lockers. I had not a clue what a line locker was prior to that. There's soooooooooo much out there on the web..................
02-14-04, 06:13 PM
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Listen Young GrassHoppa's for I will teach you the way of the Linear Locking Mechanisms!!!:
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...Lock&x=20&y=11
I've have had this installed 2 sets of tires ago
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...Lock&x=20&y=11
I've have had this installed 2 sets of tires ago
02-14-04, 07:16 PM
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Originally posted by BlackRx7
Listen Young GrassHoppa's for I will teach you the way of the Linear Locking Mechanisms!!!:
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...Lock&x=20&y=11
I've have had this installed 2 sets of tires ago
Listen Young GrassHoppa's for I will teach you the way of the Linear Locking Mechanisms!!!:
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...Lock&x=20&y=11
I've have had this installed 2 sets of tires ago
02-14-04, 07:37 PM
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I got whichever was the cheapest I think it was the Sam Biondo Racing one, when you hook it up you'll need 2 T fittings with 2 3/8th threaded holes and 1 1/8th NPT, as well as some extra 3/8th brake line (short sections) then its pretty easy put one tee on the 2 front brake lines from the master cylinder to the 'in" side on the line lock actuator then the other T on the out side, one brake line goes through the proportioning valve, the other goes to the driver side front brake.
you can find the T's and all other fittings at NAPA if they have all their stuff in stock, it took me a while going through all the fittings in almost every auto-store in town.
you can find the T's and all other fittings at NAPA if they have all their stuff in stock, it took me a while going through all the fittings in almost every auto-store in town.
02-14-04, 08:30 PM
#25
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Originally posted by BlackRx7
I got whichever was the cheapest I think it was the Sam Biondo Racing one, when you hook it up you'll need 2 T fittings with 2 3/8th threaded holes and 1 1/8th NPT, as well as some extra 3/8th brake line (short sections) then its pretty easy put one tee on the 2 front brake lines from the master cylinder to the 'in" side on the line lock actuator then the other T on the out side, one brake line goes through the proportioning valve, the other goes to the driver side front brake.
you can find the T's and all other fittings at NAPA if they have all their stuff in stock, it took me a while going through all the fittings in almost every auto-store in town.
I got whichever was the cheapest I think it was the Sam Biondo Racing one, when you hook it up you'll need 2 T fittings with 2 3/8th threaded holes and 1 1/8th NPT, as well as some extra 3/8th brake line (short sections) then its pretty easy put one tee on the 2 front brake lines from the master cylinder to the 'in" side on the line lock actuator then the other T on the out side, one brake line goes through the proportioning valve, the other goes to the driver side front brake.
you can find the T's and all other fittings at NAPA if they have all their stuff in stock, it took me a while going through all the fittings in almost every auto-store in town.