Rpeck

I have already spent $109,643.57 on this car (or so it seems) and I wanna drive the damn thing!@ but before I put the motor back in I need to decide on my clutch & flywheel. My plans for this car are; weekend driver, awsome looking, full stereo setup, all luxuries intact IE power steering, AC, and cruise control. In other words I am not really looking to cut my cars weight ... but I am looking for FULL performance. I wanna toast every ricer Honda on the road... and we have 100's around here. I am looking for drag performance more than anything. How much of a performace impact is a lightweight flywheel going to give me.. I originally planned on gettting one for sure.. now I am debating ... more parts=more money=more time. Ahh, one last thing? Aluminum or steel?

NZConvertible

Light flywheels are definitely worth it. But the loss of weight isn’t why you do it, after all losing ~15lb is going to make stuff all difference. It’s the dramatic reduction in rotating mass that makes the difference. This allows your engine to change its rotational velocity (rpm!) much more quickly. This will make your car accelerate faster. If you regularly drive your car in traffic, get a 15lb one, otherwise 10lb is sweet.

RETed

Are you prepared to spend several THOUSAND dollars more for a full T04 turbo upgrade?&nbsp If not, don't expect to beat all of them.&nbsp I know a handful of them go up to Midnight Performance up in Rancho Cordova; we're talking 12-second turbo Honda here that you're not going to get close to with a stock turbo...


-Ted

duboisr

garfinkle has a light steel flywheel and it will pull from a stop with out touching the gas (800-850 RPM) . It revs up very quickly plus a light wheel lets the trans shift better up and down .He drives on the street not the strip .The flywheel is 14 lbs as I remember

Rpeck

Ya, I concluded that the quicker rev was the idea of the lightweight flywheel ... I was just not sure if inertia helped, or hindered in a drag style race. I see nothing but +'s so far, for the new flywheel.

someday this car might run 12's in the mean time I will take the 12 second forced induction cars out on one wheel with a 9 second carborated Honda ... oh what a feeling!

Mark S

iTrader: (1)

Not only does a lightweight wheel reduce rotational inertia, it also allows you to shift faster --less stress on the transmission synchros. Add those 2 together, and the car is much brighter off the line. Plus, the car feels tons more responsive.

Ive had a RB aluminum wheel for 4 years, and still think it's one of the best upgrades I've made.

HuggyBear

a lighter flywheel is gonna hurt your launches a bit. as the flywheel is spinning during revs before a launch it has momentum. the more weight you have behind this momentum the more power you put into the launch when u drop the clutch. light flywheel = less power into your launch(assuming you launch at the same speed as before).

thats the basic idea

to compensate youl have to rev a little higher before you launch to get the same performance. other than that all the benefits hold. well worth it imho....

Barwick

I was going to say to spend the money on a full catback exhaust if you can.. but it looks like you've got one already. Um, yeah go for it... I've got one on my car.. it came FREE with the J-spec motor How do you like them apples? Of course, the engine isn't running yet, but.. anyhow.

crasher2

Light weight flywheels were disigned for road course racing to help keep the revs up high to get the speed up after cornering. I wouldn't recommend them for drag racing, i would stay with the stock one for that. but that is just me.

Jerk_Racer

Straight lines are for fast cars, corners are for fast drivers. Fast drivers needs fast reacting flywheels for fast shifting. Stock and steel flywheels: drag. Aluminum lightweight flywheels: road racing, autoX, fun in the twisties. Sure this is too simplistic, but it really depends on what you want to go for. At some point you can't have it all. Decide what you want to go for and start building your car accordingly. Don't get road racing stuff if you want a drag car and vice versa. You can have a good middle ground car, but you have to get stuff that is in the middle ground. I personally don't care for drag racing, so I went with a 9.5# flywheel. For autoX and playing in the hills it's great. A hiflo turbo from BNR Supercars would help in your quest to shame all H-cars near you. You can get into the 12's with these from what I hear. I have the Stage2 waiting to go in my car. If I wanted max power I would've gone with the Stage4 for just a little bit more money. A well tuned setup with a T04S will seal the deal. If you can't spend too much, don't expect too much. There will be other guys out there that have spent way more than you on their H-cars and will hand your a$$ to you, so don't be suprised unless you go all out. Good luck in your journey to have a bada$$ local terror.

jerk_racer@hotmail.com

MtnRacer

Took the words right outta my mouth Jerk!

Steve

Rpeck

Well I have decided to go with the BNR stage 3 Turbo instead of the stage 1 upgrade. So, I am getting there... I can always add more later but that turbo fits my budget right now.

fast13b

Yeah I agree if you are all drag race, stay steel. Anything less, go aluminum

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Exactly. You're gonna either Bog off the line, or spin to much trying to compensate.

For Draggin, keep the stocker.

FEARED7

Hey Rob.
you are going to kick the hell out of some hondas with the stage 3! Maybe even some VIPERS!!!! Just get that thing properly tuned and then it will be cake from then on!
later on,
Bryan
www.bnrsupercars.com