jeremy

iTrader: (1)

i have been thinking about making my headlights turn on without raising unless i use the turndial. however looking at the fsm for the 91, it seems like there is only one wire from the light switch to the motors, meaning i would need to put a switch in to control it. has anyone done this or know what wire needs cut to make this work.?

eoph

http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/lights.htm

jeremy

iTrader: (1)

thanks but thats a little different then what i'm looking to do. i'm wanting all the lights to come on, with just the healight motors either controlled by the **** or a separate switch.

[bnd]

There is a wire in the same harness that will turn the rest of the lights on. It's been so long since I did it I can't remember, but I think it's the R/B wire. Check the wiring diagrams in the FSM.

Black13B

iTrader: (1)

I had a PM conversation with Icemark about this.

I am not sure if this will work the same for a Series 5 FC, but this is what Icemark dug up for me on a Series 4.

It's helped me out - Hopefully it can be applied to you S5 guys... All credit goes to Mark..

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Turning the headlights on without rasing them is exactly what the link provided does...

rusaccord

Yeah, just think of the connection to the headlights instead of the flash to pass lenses.

Black13B

iTrader: (1)

Aaron, he is talking about disabling the interaction between the flip-up control and the headlight switch.

Basically two different circuits.

Not just headlights on through the FTPs..

Same thing I am doing - Using the motor switch to run the motors without the headlight switch defaulting to 'up' when you have lights on.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Ah, I see. Well, you could always cut the red/yellow and red/blue wire at the switch and install a switch in series with each.

jeremy

iTrader: (1)

yeah, thats what i'm trying. now i understand what the two wires are doing. so i would need a 3 prong switch, running a 12v source in and then sending it to one sideof the hl motor correct?

i'm thinking about just rigging up a fog light to the ftp lense.

Fingers

Just pull the "retractor" fuse under the hood.

Done.

jeremy

iTrader: (1)

thats great and all until i want them up and i have to pull over under a street light to put the fuse back in.

Luciu$

I got the same idea some time ago, havent had time to try it yet, but as far as i know, you will have cut into cluster switch. I dont think adding switches is good idea, i like to keep all switches as they are nice and handy. i got this idea because we have to have lights on whole winter, so it would be nice if i could do so without retracting them, but at night you have to retract them to see at least anything. I'll try to get and open one spare cluster switch and track it out. If I find some easy solution i'll post it here (IMHO it should be as easy as drilling 2 holes into the desk or unsoldering 2 wires, the biggest problem is to open the switch without breaking it - i've done this on the right hand side one and i had to cut few holes thru plastic :o(()

jeremy

iTrader: (1)

i already fried one attempting this. i'd send it to you, but i think me girlfriend already tossed them.

Mephis

mine does it without needing to do that stuff, i dried it ysterday, i should put some blackedout ftp lenses in, i just have block off plates there now..

Black13B

iTrader: (1)

Brilliant. Do you even know what this topic is about?

Kenteth

indeed, brilliant!

cschoppe

call this a really stupid n00b question, but what is the purpose/point of doing that ?

sounds intersting tho

jeremy

iTrader: (1)

it would enable me to run around town with the headlights shining through the ftp lenses without the quarter in the flash lever trick. not only does it look pretty sweet but its pretty nice to have when you need to be more visible to drivers but don't need a full light on the road.

Black13B

iTrader: (1)

For me, it's just personal preference. I'd rather have them on separate circuits (or independent from eachother, whichever you want to call it).

Luciu$

OK, I did it. It was as I expected one easy cut into cluster switch. Here is a picture what i cuted (that red line ) http://www.home.karneval.cz/00004218...switch_cut.jpg
If you want to do it yourself, just take out cluster switch (follow FSM, or your intuition) pop off that plastic cover from left side and u should see something like the picture above. use small drill or sharp screwdriver or whatever to cut that conection as shown. Here i added a view from FSM to let you see what are you actually cutting. http://www.home.karneval.cz/00004218...cut_scheme.jpg
This works fine for me, but i actaully think about adding some switch for bringing it back to stock on demand (when someone else drives my car or whatever)
I had another thought about retracting my headlights. I found out it would be fine to be able to open the lights only half the way. i would like to use headlight cleaner switch for this - the lights would be moving as long as you hold the switch. This mod would have to be made somewhere in relays maybe even in lights motors eloctronics, dont know yet , i'll check that out.

truespin88

Ok, I read this somewhere so correct me if I'm wrong.

The retractor fuse is the key here. There is a wire beneath the fuse itself (there is only one wire directly beneath the fuse). Install a switch in that wire however you see fit and TADA, the headlights only come up when that switch is closed. I suggest giving yourself room beneath the fuse box to strip the wire and install some length of wire to place a switch in your interior. Want to have your pop-ups down, and lights on? Open the switch and turn your dial to "low beams". Getting dark? Close the switch, and the headlights will rise (until the switch is opened or the dial is turned back to parking lights or off).

No interior disassembly (aside from installing your switch to control the fuse).

Redwood

This is what I had done on a previous RX-7 and it worked great. I'll likely do this on my current one and use the switch for the foglights (in center console, next to security light). Even the picture kinda makes sense, at least as much as it used to. (Lusiu$ --> This is exactly what you would need to do I believe)

Of course, if you have foglights, then you'll need to put in a switch. The problem with a switch in that circuit is it's a high amp circuit so it'll require a hefty switch. I only found one at the local parts shop, but it works besides being huge. As for mounting, I'm sure you have a dead panel somewhere you can use (I had an aluminum panel in my dash with a few switches previously, worked well and looked sharp).

I'm going to be working on this tomorrow in my car (that is, trying to find an easier way) but I'm thinking (after referring back to the FSM quickly) that there will not be a way to achieve this effect short of the added switch under the retractor. Unless you choose to modify that headlight cleaner switch heavily, but it just isn't quite worth it for me.

BTW, the point of being able to stop it part way up (at least for me) is to get sleepy lights. What can I say? I like 'em.

truespin88

Amen, Redwood. Of course, you could disconnect the two wires from the main lights switch and use the cleaner switch to raise and lower them... but that gets tedious. So there you have it.

blue90rx7

cutting into the console? geez
if you want them down all the time no matter if the headlights are off or on pull out the retractor fuse!

if you want a switch to determine if the retractor fuse is on or not, go to radio shack, buy a two setting switch capable of handling 30 amps, cut the wire going to the retractor fuse (i think its the green stripe one), splice both ends of the wire with new wire, run the new wire to the interior, splice the switch with the wire, mount the switch. hoooray