sodara

iTrader: (1)

This happened recently when I left work one night. I twisted my headlight-switch **** the 1st click and none of the lights inside(guages, etc.) came on. The 2nd click brought my headlights up just fine so I was able to drive home...
When I got home I realized that the outside lights that were suppose to turn on with the 1st click weren't functioning either. All my tail lights came on when I tested the break pedal, and my left and right signal lights on all four corners still work. But night time marker lights don't work anymore with the 1st click along with my interior guages and panels. Can anyone please help me with this? I don't wanna get hit or pulled over at night since the only thing that works are my headlights.
Thanks

sodara

iTrader: (1)

I've just checked all my fuses and bulbs and they were fine. I don't know where else to look. I'd apreciate it if anyone know's what to do.

tiresmoke

my parts car had the same problem, some times things short in there. so take off your gauge bezzle and the switch its self, pull off the wires going to the switch and look at them to see if there are any black spots or shorts in the conector. my'n had one pin that was tosted, and iv hear of this happening to others. good luck finding the issue.

sodara

iTrader: (1)

Thx a lot, I'm a little nervous about disecting my instrument cluster but this gives me hope.

SlidinRX7

Something similar to this happen to me a few years ago. My headlight switch actually shorted out in the back. It caused a part of the harness that plugs into the switch to burn a little. I swapped in a new switch and everything was fine after that. Haven't experienced the same problem with that car since.

NZConvertible

Only half the FC owners out there.

Most likely it's a fried relay in the headlight switch. You can quickly test this by unscrewing the instrument cluster surround and pulling it out far enough to access the headlight switch wiring. Use a test light to probe the wiring to check for voltage. There should be constant power on the W/G wire (power from 15A ILLUM fuse), and power on the R/B wire (taillights) and R/G wire (instrument lights) when you turn the switch to the park or headlight position. If there's no power on the R/B and R/G wires then the switch needs to be replaced or repaired.

www.mazdamark.com/switches.htm

Once you've gotten it working again you might want to consider adding an external relay to bypass the stock one and prevent it happening again, as described here:

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/heavy-duty-light-switch-operation-how-too-prevent-burnout-164931/

sodara

iTrader: (1)

Here's what i've got so far. the white with green line wire was cooked all the way to the connector.

question: If i want to make a rocker swtich panel somewhat like a light switch to replace the burnt connection, what are the wires do I need to hook up to the switch?

NZConvertible

Replace the harness or you'll damage another switch.

http://www.mazdatrix.com/86-92Electrical.htm