I drive in traffic on the 405 in Los Angeles and neither my clutch or my flywheel are a problem. I have a "sprung" twin plate clutch with flywheel kit from HKS and it feels VERY similar to the stock feel. VERY easy to drive in traffic

 

it is all in the clutch set up

I have a 12lb RB, and a clutch and pressure plate that started out as a ACT, I had a local custom clutch guy work off that ACT clutch and he built me a clutch that engages and makes the car drive like it is a factory car, so smooth, no chatter, easy pedal.
He did my other car which had a puck style clutch which was awful and it was like I had gotten a new car .

If you want to save your drivetrain and your sanity stay away from puck style clutches

 

I've just thrown in an Exedy lightened flywheel that was machined and further lightened to 7.7lbs which is pretty damn light I think. Only breaking the clutch in at the moment but have found that I have to rev the car a little more on hill starts, but even in vacuum it's wanting to fly up the rev range. Good signs for when I finally get on it

 

-i have the F1 racing aluminum 8lbs flywheel
-performance is noticeable and u gain more useable whp
-no...car felt almost the same when drving casually, then u feel the differences when going WOT
-had a racing beat lightened steel, then decided on a much lighter F1 racing aluminum flywheel
-go for lightest
-no bad experiences
-have a professional install it

EDIT: Broke in the flywheel with a new stage 1 clutch kit (clutch, pressure plate)

 

but how does a lightweight flywheel cause a boost problems?that part doesn't make sence to me.if your reving quicker,then shouldnt you boost quicker also?im building my car for autocross and plan to move up to road racing.fighting myself everyday on whether or not i should boost or stay n/a.if i stay n/a then a lightweight flywheel is in the near future,but if i decide to boost....well people say that a lightweight flywheel is a bad idea....i don't get it.please explain that one somebody.also,so when i purchase the lightweight flywheel it will come with the new rear counterwight?does that sit inside the rear housing cover or outside,behind the flywheel?

 

The only boost problem I could think of might be that the lightened flywheel might lead to boost building up too quickly and resulting in a boost spike.

 

well people have said that it causes boiost lag problems and wont let the turbo boost properly and everytime u let off the gas and go back on it'll take longer and longer to boost.which makes no sence to me at all

 

Who has a light weight flywheel on a S4 n/a & s5 n/a? When you shift at 3k how much does your rpm drop before shift gears? Just curious....

 

My S4 N/A has the RB steel flywheel on it. When I shift, it actually revs a bit(100-150) since I still have the dashpot on. I'm thinking about taking it back off, but I had stalling problems without it, but that's another story. Regardless, I can shift faster than the engine responds, even with the light flywheel. The tiny 8# aluminum one may be a different story though.

 

Depends how long you take to shift. I never had a problem with it dropping to low. If I had to coast to bit, I blipped the throttle before letting the clutch out, but it wasn't necessary.

I also rev-matched with downshifting, just because my synchros were getting a bit notchy. Very little throttle input needed, that RPM needle would move over very willingly with the light FW.

 

Give me a stock flywheel any day! Easy to drive in traffic, less sensitive to a grippy clutch and cheap. Then again, call me weird but I expect to be able to drive my car and not fight my car.

 

Its because theres no inertia, to build boost you need a load, no load (or less) no boost, or slow boost build up

 

black knight.that's what i was thinking but wanted someone to verify. anyone using light flywheels with a 6 puck clutch?it took a long time to get used to my 6 puck,but most of that has to do with faulty hydrualics that i have replaced a couple times already and am still having trouble with.the pedal sometimes releases at the floor and sometimes it doesn't rlease all the way.im warrentying them out again soon.waiting for the steel braided clutch line to come in.

 

I learned to drive stick on my first FC, it had a 4-puck clutch and lw flywheel (don't know the weight, I bought it like that). I bought the car saturday, drove back to school (260miles) and was driving around in hilly Tallahassee on Monday.

It was like driving with a light switch instead of a gas pedal! There was damn near zero slip, if the rpm was under 1k it would die instantly, and taking off on an incline in the rain..... yea. That being said, I did eventually adapt to the setup and it was my daily for over a year.

 

had a stock s5 in my 90 t2. when the engine popped I swapped in a rebuilt s4 block with a sr flywheel. I seriously can't tell the difference.

i did have a s5 with a lightweight a few years back and it seemed like I had to rev it a bit higher to get it to go in 1st.

 

some do. some don't. either way, it's usually clearly stated somewhere before you buy it. the flywheel bolts to the rear counterweight with six bolts, and that whole assembly gets bolted to the eccentric shaft with the large 54(?) mm bolt. it's all external to the engine itself.

i'm not touching the issue with turbo applications and boost.

 

so lightweight and turbo are bad combination because of boost lag from less inertia.but what about on like an eaton m90 supercharger which is belt driven used as an centrifical supercharger?that would have no boost lag correct?

 

It shouldnt since it driven by the engine

 

my in-the-end game plan is to run a lightweight flywheel,eaton m90 supercharger,a weber ida intake using a custom y-pipe for the 2 intake runners on the webers.i know that a lightweight flywheel on a carb set up is rough to drive daily,unless u have a little extra power to help get it going,which is where the supercharger comes in for the extra bump with no lag.i wan't boost but im not a fan of lag....especialy large amounts of lag caused by a lightweight flywheel.im building my 7 for autocross/road racing.im planing a rebuild in the spring time next year,a large street port at that time with the 8 lbs from the m90 i should be at about 300-350ish to the wheels.i plan to move up from autocross to road racing.thanks for the info and help guys.i was planing a turbo and lightweight flywheel,that hould have sucked once it was all done.thanks alot for helping me save time and money.this will be my first boostd car and haing a supercharger which is belt driven means i can't get boost happy and crank it up.btw,i am polaning to run a blowoff valve just in case.anyways,thanks.