Light problem!
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Light problem!
This just happened last night!!! After hanging out with my friends i jump in the ride i start her and let her warm up and i noticed the lights on the dash were pulsating so much is basically blinkin on and off and so were my headlights. i dont understand how this happened out of no where, i almost thought i was too drunk. but the car only does this when the engine is running and is normal when its off and i noticed my headlights pulse before when reving crazy but FC's Got their wiring issues! i just dont know WTF HAPPENED?!?!? I know all you guys are basically the best ppl to ask SO ANSWERS PLEAZE!
Last edited by mashing rx7; 08-09-05 at 12:21 PM. Reason: adds
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actually i dont have a volt meter in the dash, instead theres a psi guage =(
and i just got a FD alternator 2/3 weeks ago (life time warranty) and i'll get that **** changed today if you guys think its that, and im also running with a redtop optima. I was thinking somethings wrong in the relay Or a ground went to **** but i dont know where to even start loookin!! Plz more feedback
and i just got a FD alternator 2/3 weeks ago (life time warranty) and i'll get that **** changed today if you guys think its that, and im also running with a redtop optima. I was thinking somethings wrong in the relay Or a ground went to **** but i dont know where to even start loookin!! Plz more feedback
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First thing you want to do, before you start tearing into your electrical system is to go buy yourself a multimeter (AKA voltmeter, ohmmeter, DMM, DVM). This way you can trace out what your problem is. It doesn't matter that you don't have a voltmeter on your dash, they're not that reliable anyway. You don't have to get the $13,000 Fluke with the graphical display, a cheap Radio-shack model with the needle gauge will do.
Check the continuity between the engine, the chassis, and the negative battery terminal. Optimally, it should be 0Ohms, but less than 10 is passable. Check your ground connections between your battery/chassis/engine.
Sideways makes a good point too. Optimas don't last forever, and I bought a red top with a bad cell. The worst part is I was out in the middle of the desert when I found out. Also, my last alternator never showed obvious signs of decay. It just died on the way home. I coasted into the driveway with no lights or ignition.
Check the continuity between the engine, the chassis, and the negative battery terminal. Optimally, it should be 0Ohms, but less than 10 is passable. Check your ground connections between your battery/chassis/engine.
Sideways makes a good point too. Optimas don't last forever, and I bought a red top with a bad cell. The worst part is I was out in the middle of the desert when I found out. Also, my last alternator never showed obvious signs of decay. It just died on the way home. I coasted into the driveway with no lights or ignition.
Last edited by JamesBong; 08-09-05 at 12:46 PM.
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ERRR i guess thats what i have to do AGAIN.. i just got it tested a week or 2 ago when my car wasnt holding its idle and it was fine so was the battery.. But **** always happens.. And u gotta love ur FC to put up w/ all the electrical b/s. BUT IS THERE ANYTHING ELSE THAT COULD BE WRONG?!?! cuz i went to drive it this morning and it drives fine but the lights still are a flickerin and the idle is pulsating more than usual when sitting...
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Check some of you under dash and engine bay connectors for corosion. There's this connector spray called Bullfrog you can pick up at Fry's Electronics. It eats corrosion, and protects the connectors from corroding. I've gone through most of my connectors with this stuff.
Sloppy idle usually points to a ground problem or vacuum leak though. Do the lights still flicker if you hold the idle high? hmm, have you changed your sparkplugs and fuel filter lately? (Just kinda thinking out loud)
Sloppy idle usually points to a ground problem or vacuum leak though. Do the lights still flicker if you hold the idle high? hmm, have you changed your sparkplugs and fuel filter lately? (Just kinda thinking out loud)
Last edited by JamesBong; 08-09-05 at 12:52 PM.
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I'd get a cheap multimeter and test for bad grounds, as suggested. I don't personally reccomend going so cheap that you get an analog meter, though. In working with electronics (unless its high frequenct AC, which we dont have on cars) a dmm is far supperior. You can get one that is perfectly functional for 10-20 bucks at sears, and you dont have to mess with calibrating the analog meter.
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I've been noticing my idle is acting weird, I use to be worried that it idled to Low but it never dies so i stopped worring about that and now recently with the light problem she idles very oddly like it pulsates faster then the engine in rotateing kinda deal, matching the flickering of the lights, There should be nothing wrong with my engine right?!?!?! it's just an electrical problem right??
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the only thing i can think of is that ur alternator isnt putting out enough power for when the car is on.....maybe a belt is slipping?(you probably already checked that...but hey worth a try)
from my understanding its that something in your car is taking all of the power
like how my car is when i have the lights on....have the stereo on, and the a/c/heat blowing, and when i hit the brakes all the lights go dim inside the car and i see that my volt meter goes down quite a bit
check the wiring from your alternator...i remember on my old mercury tracer that the tach was going witht he beat of my music when my alternator went out
from my understanding its that something in your car is taking all of the power
like how my car is when i have the lights on....have the stereo on, and the a/c/heat blowing, and when i hit the brakes all the lights go dim inside the car and i see that my volt meter goes down quite a bit
check the wiring from your alternator...i remember on my old mercury tracer that the tach was going witht he beat of my music when my alternator went out
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