Ok...I suspected that my multimeter was shot, so I went and picked up a new one and I was right.

Here are the results with the new multimeter:

(All done with key on, car not started)

Battery: 12.40v
Black/White (at green connector): 12.39v
Black/White (at pressure sensor): 12.33v
Brown/White (at pressure sensor): 4.99-5.01v


So am I safe to assume that the ECU and sensor is ok?

 

Previously, you checked the Brown/Red wire and found it to be below spec, but this was likely due to a poor reading based on the multimeter used, but you have yet to reexamine the voltage reading on the Boost Sensor wire. Until this is done then you cannot rule out the sensor at this time.

 

hopefully you guys are going somewhere with this, the pressure sensor is one of the least necessary components to the stock management system. first being the airflow meter, and also strangely one of the most difficult components to test accurately(acts much different when voltage is applied compared to doing resistance checks).

 

Brown/Red wire @ pressure sensor (key on, car not started): 2.26-2.29v

 

That's better than the original reading. One thing you might want to do is w/the car in neutral and rev the engine (after the car has warmed up properly) and take notice on how the engine responds. Then pull the vacuum hose off of the Boost Sensor and cap it followed by disconnecting the TPS sensor. Once done do as previously and free rev the engine once again while in neutral and see if the engine behaves much the same or rather differently.

 

I'll have to do that tomorrow. It's dark out already and I'm in no mood to dig around with a flashlight. Lol.

 

Do you think I should just grab a new/reman AFM and try it out just in case? NAPA has them for a couple hundred bucks over here...so I could always grab it, test it, and if that's not the problem, return it.

 

In other words, you're afraid of the dark! When you rev the engine in a normal scenario the secondary injectors will not come on line. When you put the engine under load and rev above 3800 rpm the secondary injectors do fire. Messing w/the Bosst sensor and TPS will place the car under load so when you free rev the second time around the secondary injectors should fire if reved above 3800 rpm. So in doing this you will be comparing two different situations. One where the secondaries won't fire versus one that does.

 

That's up to you.

 

Haha. No, it's just a pain in the ***, and I'm about ready for a nice cold beer and dinner. I'll give it a shot tomorrow at lunch time and I'll probably stop by NAPA, grab that AFM, and replace it to see what that does. I'll get back to you guys with the results.
Thanks for the help so far. I hope I can resolve this asap.

 

By the way, will I have to take off the I/C in order to disconnect the TPS?

 

You just need to unplug it. I don't have a turbo so I'm not familiar w/how hard the connector is to get at.

 

Iam having the same problem with my car (also has a rtek 2.0 on a na s4 car) I threw every part I could think of at this with no effect so I got a aeromotive FRP and noticed that my fuel pressure drops just by reving the car at idle.

The car hits a wall between 5k-6k the car goes really lean wideband goes up past 18 the narrow band then reads 0.
If I look at the FRP gauge it drops to 30 psi during free rev so I just ordered a new aeromotive 340 fuel pump hopefully this will fix the problem.

Also it I use light throttle I can get past the wall but still can not go full throttle.

So I am placing the problem to a bad fuel pump due to the fuel pressure drop. I will know next week when the pump arrives.

If not I have a wolf 3d stand alone I will be installing and throwing the rtek in the trash.

 

i wouldn't trust just about anything reman for these cars, unless they can guarantee you your money back.

 

The thing is that it doesn't rev (at more than half open throttle) when in neutral anyway, so I don't think it has anything to do with the secondary injectors.
If I just have the car started, standing, in neutral, and try to rev it by hitting the accelerator all the way down, it bogs and hits a wall. It won't rev up past 2.5-3k unless I only give it a little throttle (1/3 of the accelerator pedal). Then it revs all the way up.

 

Well I never had any issues with reman AFM's before (for other cars). But they do have a 30 day return policy, so if it doesn't work, I could always return it and try another one.

 

Even though you replaced the fuel pump you might want to check the fuel pressure. And an easy thing to check is the voltage on pin 3C and 3E of the ECU as they should both have 12 volts w/key to on. Doing so helps to verify that the injector plugs for the Primary injectors are properly secured. If that all checks out then you could try bypassing the fuel pump relay and resistor located under the air box. This device boosts the voltage to the fuel pump when the engine is asked to accelerate rather quickly. If the plug to the unit is disconnected then one of the Blue/Red wires would be jumpered to one of the Blue wires and it will be bypassed thus sending 12 volts to the fuel pump at all times. And clogged primary injectors could also be your problem.

 

Whats an accurate and inexpensive way to do that?

 

It's easier to do the other things (measuring the injector pin voltage, bypassing the relay), and if that doesn't help any then you can rent a fuel pressure gauge from the establishment that you plan on borrowing the AFM from. Placing the gauge teed inline after the fuel filter and before the engine will suffice. Should read between 30 to 40 psi depending on the scenario at hand. Or you can place it as the fuel leaves the engine via the return line.

 

I had a fuel delivery issue in a s5 na car (RTek 2.0) with similar symptoms. Eventually, replaced the fuel pump with a new Nippon/Denso unit, installed a new + wire going directly to the fuel pump, and gave it to Karack to figure out the rest of it (culprit = faulty wire, secondary rear injector ground).

If you're having a fuel pressure problem, it's probably not caused by a bad ECU. Doesn't the Wolf standalone require some setup effort, in which case you'd be complicating the issue? Once you get past the fuel pressure hurdle, you can use logging on the RTek to troubleshoot further.

 

^^^+1
Stop blaming the ecu because your car is in poor condition.

Also, rising rate fprs respond to both boost AND vac, so it is perfectly normal for fuel pressure to drop when you rev an n/a as vac is increased. The only thing faulty is the logic.

Have fun wasting money on a 340lph pump for an n/a.

 

issues only in the 4k+ range are almost always just secondary injector related on the n/a cars. there just isn't much else that will cause it to bog out. well aside from a plugged up cat that is.

turbo cars are a little more complicated with possible boost leaks, rising rate fuel pressure and fuel cut in the system.

BUT

fuel pressure dropping when opening the throttle is not normal, the fuel pressure should rise as vacuum gets closer to 0"Hg. n/a cars stop raising pressure at atmospheric, turbo cars have a rising rate fuel pressure regulator that keeps increasing the fuel pressure 1 psi per psi of boost that is generated in the intake system, this keeps the fuel system completely neutral.

 

Ok, updates:

1. All pins for primary and secondary injectors @ ECU: 12.33-12.35v

2a. TPS Green/White wire voltage (plugged in, key on): WAS 1.392v....set it to 1.006v
2b. Also checked the TPS resistance (unplugged): was about 1092 ohms....set it to 1001 ohms

3. Replaced Spark plug wires

4. Replaced AFM



Same issue, but now after I adjusted the TPS, there's a new symptom: After 20-25 min of driving (maybe after it warms up?), it will not hold RPM's and now I can barely drive it, even when keeping it in vacuum. If I press harder on the accelerator (to get it to even start boosting), all power is lost, RPM's fall, and car dies. It's impossible to drive. I couldn't even make it out of the parking lot. Stalled 8 times.

 

To start with if you adjusted the TPS Green/Red wire to 1 volt you needed to adjust the TPS screw. But to adjust the ohm reading you also had to adjust the TPS screw again. Aren't you taking it out of the adjustment that you had initially adjusted it to?

 

Yes, I adjusted it by voltage first and then by resistance. There was barely half a millimeter turn between the two