Lean issue when secondaries "kick on"
01-27-11, 06:39 PM
#51
Hailers:
I checked all the light green wires on the small plug. All showed a constant 12.2v. I have not had a chance to have someone monitor the voltage while driving. Do u happen to know what colors correspond to the secondaries? (my new injector clips have all white wires)
Correct.
The voltage drop was with the injector clip off (as that is the only way to read voltage @ the injector w/ my clips) and all the plugs in the ecu. I later reconnected the injector clips and unplugged the small plug if the ecu to check voltage
I checked all the light green wires on the small plug. All showed a constant 12.2v. I have not had a chance to have someone monitor the voltage while driving. Do u happen to know what colors correspond to the secondaries? (my new injector clips have all white wires)
I believe the voltage drop occured at the injector clip while it was disconnected from said injector thus wouldn't this cause the voltage drop since the voltage from the B/Y wire passes through the injector onto the Light Green injector wires? I draw this conclusion based on a previous post by yours which suggested w/key to on and small plug removed from the ECU that the Light Green wires would have battery voltage on them so if the clip was removed from the injector then the voltage could not find its way onto the light Green wire. Correct?
The voltage drop was with the injector clip off (as that is the only way to read voltage @ the injector w/ my clips) and all the plugs in the ecu. I later reconnected the injector clips and unplugged the small plug if the ecu to check voltage
01-27-11, 06:44 PM
#52
have you tried satch's suggestion of plugging the boost sensor line and revving it in neutral? This will simulate load and will turn on the secondaries above 3800. you should notice a change in tone (or the engine may just hit a wall) as it passes 3800 if one of the secondaries is not working. if the injectors are ok, you should not notice any change as it passes 3800
but from looking at your logs in teh rtek section, i still think its a bad AFM, it looks like it has a cutout and it happens to be right when the secondaries turn on. You can connect your AFM to a 5v power supply at test it. look at FSM page 4b-60. Connect 5V to Vref, ground to E2, and put a meter on Vs. it should sweep smoothly from ~0.5V to ~4V
but from looking at your logs in teh rtek section, i still think its a bad AFM, it looks like it has a cutout and it happens to be right when the secondaries turn on. You can connect your AFM to a 5v power supply at test it. look at FSM page 4b-60. Connect 5V to Vref, ground to E2, and put a meter on Vs. it should sweep smoothly from ~0.5V to ~4V
01-27-11, 07:17 PM
#54
Rotary Freak
Light green/red is the rear secondary.
Light green/White is the front secondary.
Those wires go to the ECU from the injectors.
The wires from the solenoid resistor to the injectors colors are.........somewhere in my back room in a drawer. If you need those colors I can get them later. But all of THOSE wires going from the solenoid resistor to the injectors should have the same voltgae and it should not vary b/t them with key to just ON.
There should be no voltage drop sitting in the driveway with key to just ON........and you said you had/have that happening.
Bottom line is...........if you have the key to ON and look at the voltage for a given injector at the ECU plug with it unplugged from the ECU ...........you can then go pull the injectors p LATER GOT A PHONE CALL.
Light green/White is the front secondary.
Those wires go to the ECU from the injectors.
The wires from the solenoid resistor to the injectors colors are.........somewhere in my back room in a drawer. If you need those colors I can get them later. But all of THOSE wires going from the solenoid resistor to the injectors should have the same voltgae and it should not vary b/t them with key to just ON.
There should be no voltage drop sitting in the driveway with key to just ON........and you said you had/have that happening.
Bottom line is...........if you have the key to ON and look at the voltage for a given injector at the ECU plug with it unplugged from the ECU ...........you can then go pull the injectors p LATER GOT A PHONE CALL.
01-27-11, 07:22 PM
#55
01-27-11, 08:31 PM
#57
Rotary Freak
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...SISTOR+PACKAGE
I think post number six on that thread shows the color of the wires on a early RX that has the solenoid resistor package. You can see the light green wires at the ECU and the wires b/t the injectors and solenoid resistor and their color.
As for the wires b/t the injector and solenoid resistor........it really matters not which of those wires goes to which injector since they all have batt power on them. But the wires from the injector to the ECU small plug MUST be the right color.
Seems to me one of your secondary injectors isn't opening 'cause of bad wiring at the injector plug/or splice of the white wires. Car will fall on its face if only one secondary opens.
I think post number six on that thread shows the color of the wires on a early RX that has the solenoid resistor package. You can see the light green wires at the ECU and the wires b/t the injectors and solenoid resistor and their color.
As for the wires b/t the injector and solenoid resistor........it really matters not which of those wires goes to which injector since they all have batt power on them. But the wires from the injector to the ECU small plug MUST be the right color.
Seems to me one of your secondary injectors isn't opening 'cause of bad wiring at the injector plug/or splice of the white wires. Car will fall on its face if only one secondary opens.
01-27-11, 09:38 PM
#58
have you tried satch's suggestion of plugging the boost sensor line and revving it in neutral? This will simulate load and will turn on the secondaries above 3800. you should notice a change in tone (or the engine may just hit a wall) as it passes 3800 if one of the secondaries is not working. if the injectors are ok, you should not notice any change as it passes 3800
but from looking at your logs in teh rtek section, i still think its a bad AFM, it looks like it has a cutout and it happens to be right when the secondaries turn on. You can connect your AFM to a 5v power supply at test it. look at FSM page 4b-60. Connect 5V to Vref, ground to E2, and put a meter on Vs. it should sweep smoothly from ~0.5V to ~4V
Light green/red is the rear secondary.
Light green/White is the front secondary.
Those wires go to the ECU from the injectors.
The wires from the solenoid resistor to the injectors colors are.........somewhere in my back room in a drawer. If you need those colors I can get them later. But all of THOSE wires going from the solenoid resistor to the injectors should have the same voltgae and it should not vary b/t them with key to just ON.
There should be no voltage drop sitting in the driveway with key to just ON........and you said you had/have that happening.
Bottom line is...........if you have the key to ON and look at the voltage for a given injector at the ECU plug with it unplugged from the ECU ...........you can then go pull the injectors p LATER GOT A PHONE CALL.
Light green/White is the front secondary.
Those wires go to the ECU from the injectors.
The wires from the solenoid resistor to the injectors colors are.........somewhere in my back room in a drawer. If you need those colors I can get them later. But all of THOSE wires going from the solenoid resistor to the injectors should have the same voltgae and it should not vary b/t them with key to just ON.
There should be no voltage drop sitting in the driveway with key to just ON........and you said you had/have that happening.
Bottom line is...........if you have the key to ON and look at the voltage for a given injector at the ECU plug with it unplugged from the ECU ...........you can then go pull the injectors p LATER GOT A PHONE CALL.
All the green wires show 12v @ the ecu, and I assume they are the ones showing 12v @ the injector. 2-3 of the black writes show 12v @the ecu. i assume these are the ones that are dropping voltage @ the injector.
01-27-11, 10:21 PM
#61
Rotary Freak
Go to the FSM and the section called FUEL AND EMISSIONS. In that section are three pages called CONTROL UNIT. On those pages are the values for each pin on the ECU and what they do in life.
Having batt voltage on all four inejctor wires shows there is noting wrong as far as power to the injectors to the ECU is concerned. So most likely your problem isn't there.
It's easy to see if the afm is good/bad. Just look at the wire at the ECU that is dedicated to the output of the afm (pin 2E, middle plug, green/blue wire) and with key ON, engine OFF, look at that value with a meter as you move the vane in the afm aft. The voltage should increase as you move it aft. And compare the reading there to what the CONROL UNIT page says it should be with key ON engine OFF.
IF you have a RTEK 2.1 you could look at the Palm and the reading of the airflow meter on that device as you move the afm vane aft with key ON, engine OFF...........instead of looking at a digital meter at the ECU. I forget how that display is shown. In percentage I think. The reading won't match the FUEL AND EMISSIONS seciton of the afm, but the reading should be smoooth as it goes from dead closed to full open.
That said.............a afm that has been monkey fucked up by someone *adjusting* the spring tension of the internal vane , will read the same as one that has not be messed with. Talking about key ON engine OFF readings. The *at rest figure* would be the only figure that would be a slight bit different.
I don't know what is wrong with your car since the injectors wiring seems ok. Like one person said, waaaay toooo large injectors can cause the same symptoms. Just boggs the sucker down.
Having batt voltage on all four inejctor wires shows there is noting wrong as far as power to the injectors to the ECU is concerned. So most likely your problem isn't there.
It's easy to see if the afm is good/bad. Just look at the wire at the ECU that is dedicated to the output of the afm (pin 2E, middle plug, green/blue wire) and with key ON, engine OFF, look at that value with a meter as you move the vane in the afm aft. The voltage should increase as you move it aft. And compare the reading there to what the CONROL UNIT page says it should be with key ON engine OFF.
IF you have a RTEK 2.1 you could look at the Palm and the reading of the airflow meter on that device as you move the afm vane aft with key ON, engine OFF...........instead of looking at a digital meter at the ECU. I forget how that display is shown. In percentage I think. The reading won't match the FUEL AND EMISSIONS seciton of the afm, but the reading should be smoooth as it goes from dead closed to full open.
That said.............a afm that has been monkey fucked up by someone *adjusting* the spring tension of the internal vane , will read the same as one that has not be messed with. Talking about key ON engine OFF readings. The *at rest figure* would be the only figure that would be a slight bit different.
I don't know what is wrong with your car since the injectors wiring seems ok. Like one person said, waaaay toooo large injectors can cause the same symptoms. Just boggs the sucker down.
01-28-11, 12:43 AM
#62
Go to the FSM and the section called FUEL AND EMISSIONS. In that section are three pages called CONTROL UNIT. On those pages are the values for each pin on the ECU and what they do in life.
Having batt voltage on all four inejctor wires shows there is noting wrong as far as power to the injectors to the ECU is concerned. So most likely your problem isn't there.
It's easy to see if the afm is good/bad. Just look at the wire at the ECU that is dedicated to the output of the afm (pin 2E, middle plug, green/blue wire) and with key ON, engine OFF, look at that value with a meter as you move the vane in the afm aft. The voltage should increase as you move it aft. And compare the reading there to what the CONROL UNIT page says it should be with key ON engine OFF.
IF you have a RTEK 2.1 you could look at the Palm and the reading of the airflow meter on that device as you move the afm vane aft with key ON, engine OFF...........instead of looking at a digital meter at the ECU. I forget how that display is shown. In percentage I think. The reading won't match the FUEL AND EMISSIONS seciton of the afm, but the reading should be smoooth as it goes from dead closed to full open.
That said.............a afm that has been monkey fucked up by someone *adjusting* the spring tension of the internal vane , will read the same as one that has not be messed with. Talking about key ON engine OFF readings. The *at rest figure* would be the only figure that would be a slight bit different.
I don't know what is wrong with your car since the injectors wiring seems ok. Like one person said, waaaay toooo large injectors can cause the same symptoms. Just boggs the sucker down.
Having batt voltage on all four inejctor wires shows there is noting wrong as far as power to the injectors to the ECU is concerned. So most likely your problem isn't there.
It's easy to see if the afm is good/bad. Just look at the wire at the ECU that is dedicated to the output of the afm (pin 2E, middle plug, green/blue wire) and with key ON, engine OFF, look at that value with a meter as you move the vane in the afm aft. The voltage should increase as you move it aft. And compare the reading there to what the CONROL UNIT page says it should be with key ON engine OFF.
IF you have a RTEK 2.1 you could look at the Palm and the reading of the airflow meter on that device as you move the afm vane aft with key ON, engine OFF...........instead of looking at a digital meter at the ECU. I forget how that display is shown. In percentage I think. The reading won't match the FUEL AND EMISSIONS seciton of the afm, but the reading should be smoooth as it goes from dead closed to full open.
That said.............a afm that has been monkey fucked up by someone *adjusting* the spring tension of the internal vane , will read the same as one that has not be messed with. Talking about key ON engine OFF readings. The *at rest figure* would be the only figure that would be a slight bit different.
I don't know what is wrong with your car since the injectors wiring seems ok. Like one person said, waaaay toooo large injectors can cause the same symptoms. Just boggs the sucker down.
This **** really makes me want to just sell this damn car and be done w/the electrical bullshit.
01-28-11, 09:17 AM
#63
Pin 3A=0volts Ground
Pin3B=less than 1.5 volts w/key to on Starter switch
Pin3C=12 volts w/key to on Injector rear primary
Pin3D=12volts w/key to on Fuel pump resistor relay
Pin3E=12 volts w/key to on Injector front primary
Pin3F=12 volts w/key to on Injector rear secondary
Pin3G=0 volts Ground
Pin3H=12 volts w/key to on Injector front secondary
Pin3I=12 volts w/key to on Main relay
Pin3J=12 volts constant Battery
Pin3B=less than 1.5 volts w/key to on Starter switch
Pin3C=12 volts w/key to on Injector rear primary
Pin3D=12volts w/key to on Fuel pump resistor relay
Pin3E=12 volts w/key to on Injector front primary
Pin3F=12 volts w/key to on Injector rear secondary
Pin3G=0 volts Ground
Pin3H=12 volts w/key to on Injector front secondary
Pin3I=12 volts w/key to on Main relay
Pin3J=12 volts constant Battery
01-28-11, 10:01 AM
#64
I have all but rules out hardware failure, as over the past 3 months I have: dropped and cleaned the tank, replaced the fuel pump sock, replaced all the fuel line w/high pressure hose and -an fittings, replaced the fuel filter, added fpr, cleaned and flow tested injectors which were installed w/all new grommets and o rings and replaced the injector clips on all 4 injectors.
here is the best i can offer when i ran into similar issues with an S5 n/a that had secondary issues that i needed to pinpoint the problem on.
swap the pins from the primary injectors over to the secondaries in the ECU harness and leave the primary wires out of the harness until you are done testing. the car won't run great with the fuel going through the secondaries to idle with but it will still idle nonetheless, you may also have to scale back some fuel since you have 720 secondaries.
what does this accomplish? it rules out any issues with the secondaries not firing properly which can really only be tested this way, the primaries can be tested with the CAS and strapping the injectors to the rails but secondaries aren't quite as easy.
now that that is out of the way, if the car won't start or does start and is running only on one rotor then you can now say that one of the secondaries isn't firing. you can then determine which by removing the spark plug wires from each rotor until the engine falls on its face(keep in mind if you remove the leading front rotor plug wire and the engine stalls then the rear rotor secondary injector circuit is faulty and vice versa).
keeping that all in mind if you have voltage to both trailing injectors then your issue is the wiring for the injector driver between the injector and ECU, it may be better to just run a new wire if this is the case rather than dissecting the harness and repairing the stock wiring.
i didn't read anything in this post so hopefully i didn't repost something that was already said to do.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 01-28-11 at 10:08 AM.
01-28-11, 01:41 PM
#65
Apparently the diagram assumes you are looking from the "plug side" of the connector, not the ecu side...
Pin 3A=0volts Ground -- 0v
Pin3B=less than 1.5 volts w/key to on Starter switch -- .03v
Pin3C=12 volts w/key to on Injector rear primary -- 12v
Pin3D=12volts w/key to on Fuel pump resistor relay -- 12v
Pin3E=12 volts w/key to on Injector front primary -- 12v
Pin3F=12 volts w/key to on Injector rear secondary -- 12v
Pin3G=0 volts Ground -- 0v
Pin3H=12 volts w/key to on Injector front secondary -- 12v
Pin3I=12 volts w/key to on Main relay -- 12v
Pin3J=12 volts constant Battery -- 12v
So it seems like everything checks out @ the ecu. The "more than 2 pins reading under 12v" comment included 3b, which is apparently ok.
Time to check the afm...if only rtek would hurry up and remove that pos...
Pin 3A=0volts Ground -- 0v
Pin3B=less than 1.5 volts w/key to on Starter switch -- .03v
Pin3C=12 volts w/key to on Injector rear primary -- 12v
Pin3D=12volts w/key to on Fuel pump resistor relay -- 12v
Pin3E=12 volts w/key to on Injector front primary -- 12v
Pin3F=12 volts w/key to on Injector rear secondary -- 12v
Pin3G=0 volts Ground -- 0v
Pin3H=12 volts w/key to on Injector front secondary -- 12v
Pin3I=12 volts w/key to on Main relay -- 12v
Pin3J=12 volts constant Battery -- 12v
So it seems like everything checks out @ the ecu. The "more than 2 pins reading under 12v" comment included 3b, which is apparently ok.
Time to check the afm...if only rtek would hurry up and remove that pos...
01-28-11, 01:59 PM
#66
If it's not asking too much would you mind checking the voltage on pin 1G which you would find at the largest plug (far right plug at the ECU) top row and fourth pin from the right which takes you to a Green/Black wire. This wire should read less than 1.5 volts w/key to on and transmission in neutral and then indicate 12 volts when in gear w/key to on.
01-28-11, 02:10 PM
#67
Checked the afm , as best I could by myself. Seems to be sweeping ok. It uses some ft/min unit , at rest it read 0.2 open it read 15.x
Nothing is too much trouble at this point, at least this is productive... And if I run out of productive things to do I'm going to grab a sledgehammer. Checking...
Edit: so that pin (green/blk wire ) reads 0v with key on in neutral and .03v w/key on in 1st gear.
If it's not asking too much would you mind checking the voltage on pin 1G which you would find at the largest plug (far right plug at the ECU) top row and fourth pin from the right which takes you to a Green/Black wire. This wire should read less than 1.5 volts w/key to on and transmission in neutral and then indicate 12 volts when in gear w/key to on.
Edit: so that pin (green/blk wire ) reads 0v with key on in neutral and .03v w/key on in 1st gear.
01-28-11, 02:22 PM
#68
Checked the afm , as best I could by myself. Seems to be sweeping ok. It uses some ft/min unit , at rest it read 0.2 open it read 15.x
Nothing is too much trouble at this point, at least this is productive... And if I run out of productive things to do I'm going to grab a sledgehammer. Checking...
Edit: so that pin (green/blk wire ) reads 0v with key on in neutral and .03v w/key on in 1st gear.
Nothing is too much trouble at this point, at least this is productive... And if I run out of productive things to do I'm going to grab a sledgehammer. Checking...
Edit: so that pin (green/blk wire ) reads 0v with key on in neutral and .03v w/key on in 1st gear.
01-28-11, 02:27 PM
#69
This is probably not your problem, "but" the voltage should read close to 12 volts in any gear (1st through 5th) as stated in the FSM. Pin 1G connects to the Neutral Safety switch and if not working properly it can affect many aspects of the engines ability to operate as stated in the FSM. Again, this is probably not the problem but when you mentioned you worked on the car related to the transmission I tried to associate that with your current problem.
01-28-11, 02:53 PM
#70
The FSM lists what items the switch is related to but it doesn't go into detail of how it affects the items listed. Given this I would not get my hopes up on this but the switch as measured by you does not compare to the numbers provided by the FSM so this is all we know!
The switch has two wires where one is a Black ground wire and when the transmission is in neutral the switch is closed and the ground signal from the Black wire passes through the switch and passes the ground on to the Green/Black wire that connects to the ECU. When the car is in gear the switch opens and the ground is prevented from reaching the G/B wire and this is how you should get the 12 volt reading at the ECU for I believe the ECU outputs voltage onto this wire. This description might be wrong but it is how I understand it. So if you want the ECU to see 12 volts at pin 1G you could disconnect the two wire plug from the switch which is located on the passenger side of the transmission housing and then recheck the voltage on pin 1G to see if it's 12 volts w/key to on. With the switch disconnected then it will not matter if the car is in gear or not to read 12 volts at the ECU w/key to on.
The switch has two wires where one is a Black ground wire and when the transmission is in neutral the switch is closed and the ground signal from the Black wire passes through the switch and passes the ground on to the Green/Black wire that connects to the ECU. When the car is in gear the switch opens and the ground is prevented from reaching the G/B wire and this is how you should get the 12 volt reading at the ECU for I believe the ECU outputs voltage onto this wire. This description might be wrong but it is how I understand it. So if you want the ECU to see 12 volts at pin 1G you could disconnect the two wire plug from the switch which is located on the passenger side of the transmission housing and then recheck the voltage on pin 1G to see if it's 12 volts w/key to on. With the switch disconnected then it will not matter if the car is in gear or not to read 12 volts at the ECU w/key to on.
01-28-11, 03:36 PM
#71
Rotary Freak
Just disconnect the connector to the Neutral switch to simulate being in gear. The batt volage the FSM says you should read when in gear is nothing but an internal device used by the ECU to determine if your in gear or not.
Putting the car in Neutral causes a ground to be put on said device which then pulls the voltage down below batt voltage.
So all you have to do is disconnect the neutral plug to simulate being in gear.
Much like owning a 86 non turbo and wanting to check out the 02 sensor for being IN THE LOOP when driving. You disconnect the TPS and pull the plug off the neutral switch and then slowly rev the engine over 1500 rpm and the LED or Test equipment shown in the manual will cause a light to flash on/off at a couple hz a second (something like that). So instead of pulling the plug off the neutral switch, all I would do is sit in the car and put the thing in gear to do the same thing as pulling the plug off the neutral switch. Just using this as an example.
That example above shows one function of the neutral switch is to determine WHEN the 02 sensor should be *in the loop* or not. Another use would be when the AWS is or is not in use. You know, put the car in gear when starting a stk RX and the 17 sec rev to 3000 rpm is eliminated (as long as your in gear that is, NOT neutral).
Have you gone back and looked at the PALM and seen if the setup is set up for the injectors in the car???? Like double checked to make sure the setup is right??? Maybe it's setup for 550's in the secondarys instead of the 720's you have installed?
Putting the car in Neutral causes a ground to be put on said device which then pulls the voltage down below batt voltage.
So all you have to do is disconnect the neutral plug to simulate being in gear.
Much like owning a 86 non turbo and wanting to check out the 02 sensor for being IN THE LOOP when driving. You disconnect the TPS and pull the plug off the neutral switch and then slowly rev the engine over 1500 rpm and the LED or Test equipment shown in the manual will cause a light to flash on/off at a couple hz a second (something like that). So instead of pulling the plug off the neutral switch, all I would do is sit in the car and put the thing in gear to do the same thing as pulling the plug off the neutral switch. Just using this as an example.
That example above shows one function of the neutral switch is to determine WHEN the 02 sensor should be *in the loop* or not. Another use would be when the AWS is or is not in use. You know, put the car in gear when starting a stk RX and the 17 sec rev to 3000 rpm is eliminated (as long as your in gear that is, NOT neutral).
Have you gone back and looked at the PALM and seen if the setup is set up for the injectors in the car???? Like double checked to make sure the setup is right??? Maybe it's setup for 550's in the secondarys instead of the 720's you have installed?
01-28-11, 03:43 PM
#72
Just disconnect the connector to the Neutral switch to simulate being in gear. The batt volage the FSM says you should read when in gear is nothing but an internal device used by the ECU to determine if your in gear or not.
Putting the car in Neutral causes a ground to be put on said device which then pulls the voltage down below batt voltage.
So all you have to do is disconnect the neutral plug to simulate being in gear.
Much like owning a 86 non turbo and wanting to check out the 02 sensor for being IN THE LOOP when driving. You disconnect the TPS and pull the plug off the neutral switch and then slowly rev the engine over 1500 rpm and the LED or Test equipment shown in the manual will cause a light to flash on/off at a couple hz a second (something like that). So instead of pulling the plug off the neutral switch, all I would do is sit in the car and put the thing in gear to do the same thing as pulling the plug off the neutral switch. Just using this as an example.
That example above shows one function of the neutral switch is to determine WHEN the 02 sensor should be *in the loop* or not. Another use would be when the AWS is or is not in use. You know, put the car in gear when starting a stk RX and the 17 sec rev to 3000 rpm is eliminated (as long as your in gear that is, NOT neutral).
Have you gone back and looked at the PALM and seen if the setup is set up for the injectors in the car???? Like double checked to make sure the setup is right??? Maybe it's setup for 550's in the secondarys instead of the 720's you have installed?
Putting the car in Neutral causes a ground to be put on said device which then pulls the voltage down below batt voltage.
So all you have to do is disconnect the neutral plug to simulate being in gear.
Much like owning a 86 non turbo and wanting to check out the 02 sensor for being IN THE LOOP when driving. You disconnect the TPS and pull the plug off the neutral switch and then slowly rev the engine over 1500 rpm and the LED or Test equipment shown in the manual will cause a light to flash on/off at a couple hz a second (something like that). So instead of pulling the plug off the neutral switch, all I would do is sit in the car and put the thing in gear to do the same thing as pulling the plug off the neutral switch. Just using this as an example.
That example above shows one function of the neutral switch is to determine WHEN the 02 sensor should be *in the loop* or not. Another use would be when the AWS is or is not in use. You know, put the car in gear when starting a stk RX and the 17 sec rev to 3000 rpm is eliminated (as long as your in gear that is, NOT neutral).
Have you gone back and looked at the PALM and seen if the setup is set up for the injectors in the car???? Like double checked to make sure the setup is right??? Maybe it's setup for 550's in the secondarys instead of the 720's you have installed?
01-28-11, 05:35 PM
#73
Actually, no.
Disconnected the switch. It now reads .03 whether the tabs if in gear or not. So perhaps the ground HAS rubbed through somewhere.
Lmao! @ the injector preset suggestion. That was literally the first 3 this I checked (read: checked, checked again, and then reset to make sure)
EDIT: just checked both writes coming from the plug, neither is compromised up to the point where the enter the larger portion of the harness.
Disconnected the switch. It now reads .03 whether the tabs if in gear or not. So perhaps the ground HAS rubbed through somewhere.
Lmao! @ the injector preset suggestion. That was literally the first 3 this I checked (read: checked, checked again, and then reset to make sure)
EDIT: just checked both writes coming from the plug, neither is compromised up to the point where the enter the larger portion of the harness.
01-28-11, 05:51 PM
#74
Rotary Freak
And yes, I always take the easy way out and don't read every word on long threads. Lazy am I.
I'd probably go back to basics and back probe both secondary wires with a digital meter and go for a drive and see what each is doing. I used to do this by myself on somewhat empty roads. Some care has to be taken but that's a given.
01-28-11, 06:07 PM
#75
Actually, no.
Disconnected the switch. It now reads .03 whether the tabs if in gear or not. So perhaps the ground HAS rubbed through somewhere.
Lmao! @ the injector preset suggestion. That was literally the first 3 this I checked (read: checked, checked again, and then reset to make sure)
EDIT: just checked both writes coming from the plug, neither is compromised up to the point where the enter the larger portion of the harness.
Disconnected the switch. It now reads .03 whether the tabs if in gear or not. So perhaps the ground HAS rubbed through somewhere.
Lmao! @ the injector preset suggestion. That was literally the first 3 this I checked (read: checked, checked again, and then reset to make sure)
EDIT: just checked both writes coming from the plug, neither is compromised up to the point where the enter the larger portion of the harness.