Just a thought but was the engine fully warmed when you did the 1 volt adjustment? And did you switch back to the original AFM? When you replaced the AFM did you remember to connect the hose that goes to the air box? Have you tried just running the car w/the TPS disconnected? And it's probably time to check the fuel pressure.

 

Yes, I drove around for a good 20 minutes at least before setting the TPS. I switched back the original AFM because the new one made no difference. Actually after I put the new AFM in, every time I started it, it would idle for 10 seconds and then die.
Haven't tried running it with the TPS disconnected though. Would it even rev?

 

When the TPS is disconnected the ECU defaults to full throttle so it would affect the lower range rpm performance if anything.

 

Ok, so I let the car sit for 2.5 hours outside in the cold. It's completely cool. Now it starts and drives like before, as long as I stay in vacuum (no boosting). But at least it idles and I can drive it in all gears, as long as I barely step on the throttle. Take 10 minutes to get to 60mph.

So here's a question: why is it important to let the car warm up to full temp before setting the TPS? Is it because there is a different map for the TPS readings when the car is cold?

It seems like after it warms up for 20-25 min, it starts getting a lot worse (as stated in previous post)....so maybe it is just a bad TPS...?

 

Because the fast idle cam interferes w/the throttle linkage when the engine is not fully warmed up and prevents the TPS plunger from being in its true idle position which is necessary to set it. You also might want to check pin 2I of the ECU as it deals w/the Water Thermosensor which helps select how much fuel is used based on the engine temp. Pin 2I should measure 2 to 3 volts w/a cold engine w/key to on and a fully warmed engine measures just under .5 volts w/key to on.

 

Ok, I'll have to check that as well. I have noticed that even fully warmed up, the needle on the temp gauge is only 1/4-1/3 up.

 

Completely normal. And when was the last time the car ran normally?

 

That is approximately correct for an s4 stock temp gauge. However, the ECU uses a different water temp sender, located on the back of the water pump housing.

 

There is an air bypass adjustment screw that you'll need to adjust. See the second pic on this thread for a diagram:
https://www.rx7club.com/rtek-forum-168/n390-afm-s4-rtek-2-1-a-958559/

This allows some air to bypass the metering door, which is almost closed at idle and zero throttle. The FSM doesn't mention making this adjustment, presumably because the bypass is "correctly set" at the factory. But an aftermarket or reman part may have the bypass partially or completely closed off out of the box.

At throttle > 0, this wouldn't matter much, as the bypass contributes an insignificant fraction, compared to the air flowing through the opened metering door. So, even if you didn't make the bypass adjustment, you would still be able to tell if the AFM made a difference while accelerating.

 

The original owner said it ran very well in the beginning of 2011. But it has been sitting since and he hasn't driven a single mile on it.

 

Check pin 2I as suggested and if need be measure the fuel pressure.

 

Pin 2I @ ECU (key on, car not running) - Cold: 2.17v

...waiting for it to warm up now.

 

I don't think its that sensor though because now I started it up, cold, and the idle fluctuates up and down, up and down...I tried driving it in 1st gear, it started moving, I held the throttle at exactly the same place (1/4 down, in vacuum). It would go then start to die...popped the clutch and blipped the throttle a bit, and it kinda evened out a little. Then 10 more ft, and it bogs again.
This didn't happen before I adjusted the TPS. I have a suspicion that it might be the TPS after all.

 

Just disconnect the TPS for a bit and see what happens and a fluctuating idle could also be caused by a vacuum leak or maybe the Variable Resistor is misadjusted as it should be set to more rich than lean. If you mess w/the resistor it needs to be done w/the car fully warmed and the Initial Set Coupler jumpered.

 

Update:

Pin 2I @ ECU (key on, car not running) - Fully warmed: .47v

 

Where is the variable resistor located and what is it responsible for?

 

It fluctuates for a few minutes then levels out and idles at ~800RPMs

 

Next!

 

This is turning out to be a hell of a "trial and error" job...lol

 

Helps select how much fuel is used during idle. Located by the passenger strut tower and surrounded by a diamond shaped plate. Has a screw w/a R (rich) and L (lean) printed on the plate. Not likely your problem though but it can affect the idle.

 

Measuring the fuel pressure is probably one of the more vital things you could/should do. And bypassing the fuel relay would have taken but thirty seconds to do when you were busy exchanging the AFM. You would have gotten immediate feedback and could have crossed another possible cause off of the list.

 

Ah! That's what that is. I noticed it a few times and could never figure out what its for.

 

Ok, so all I have to do is disconnect the plug and jump on of the blue wires to one of the blue/red ones?

 

Yes.

 

not much setup fuel wise is done to run the wolf 3d system the ingintion is where you have too work


i was asking it that was normal with the aeromotive frp thats all and my car has a half bridge with 460 cc primarys and 550cc secondary (soon to be 750cc rc's ) so the lean issue up top was really hurting the car alot it felt like i was beating the engine with a stick to get it to rev up.


also when i installed the aeromotive i had the same problem of the pump leaning out at high rpms. as i was driving back to the shop i then noticed a burning smell so i coasted in the shop and started to check it out. the stock connector had almost melted form the new high amp pump so i intalled a relay system that is activated by the stock power signal and draws a power supply straight form the alternator.


THE REASULT OF THIS WIRING LAYOUT WAS AMAZING the car starts instantly and idles perfectly. when driving the car all the 5 years i have had it have i ever FELT the secondary injectors kick "on" with this setup you can and thats when the revs start to climb. the tone of the car is much deeper as well the AFR is almost a constant 13.0 at wot (now i can work of tuning the car)

so i blame the stock connector because even tho i replaced the pump with a better one i still got the same problem untill i bypassed the stock connector......