sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

I see'll about getting help verifying secondary voltage.
The boost sensor has its own line running to the nipple that socks out of the uim (could be the bov nipple, don't recall).

I am waiting for the jb weld to dry on my home made restrictor pill. However all the pill does is smooth ot the boost signal to the sensor. Im willing to bet this pos car that it won't make a significant difference one way our another.


Edit: I just remembered, I didn't have this problem before I replaced my clutch/flywheel. I raced my friend when I was trying to finish off my old clutch and it boosted fine. So what possible links are there between a clutch/flywheel job and these secondary problems?

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

Just out of curiosity...... what kind of 720's are you running?

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

Technically they are greddy 680's but after cleaning they flow 710. Paired w/ my 550's that flow 580, I should be right on track.

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

Ahhh, ok. Nevermind then.

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

I also haven't made any adjustments to the fuel map, so that is not the issue either.

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

New Info:

I pulled the uim (again...) And checked the injector clips w/ acc on. One of the prongs reads batt/ecu voltage (12.2v) the other does this count down thing ie; it starts @ 10v then trickles down to 1v within about 10 seconds. Is this normal? I was thinking it should be 0v as I always assumed the other injector write was a ground....

satch

iTrader: (1)

What color wire are you talking about? The B/Y wire which comes from the Main relay should have battery voltage w/key to on and not ACC. The other injector wires, which will be a Light Green w/stripe, should read battery voltage w/key on and not ACC. The Light Green wires are the ground wires but they will have battery voltage when the ECU is not trying to fire the injector and when the ECU fires the injector the voltage then drops some but it won't read 0 volts when using a voltmeter because it occurs too fast I believe.

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

Hmm, well the old pig tails were cracked and half missing and the wires were bare and exposed, so I replaced them and re-wrapped the harness when I installed the injectors. So there are no visable wire colors.

The key is probably "on" then (...janky fc ignition...). One wire reads batt/ecu voltage consistently. The other stats dropping as soon as you attach the voltmeter - there is no other change going on, the injector is not trying to fire.

The ecu is telling the secondaries to fire (rtek injector flag)
The injectors get full voltage from the ecu (12v key on)
Wtf?
Do resister packs go bad?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Did your hitting a brick wall problem occur just after you replaced the damaged injector clips? Filler..........

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

No.
It started after I replaced my clutch/flywheel.
The weekend before I replaced them I raced a friend of mine and I had to get off the throttle to keep it under 10psi. No hesitation, no brick wall. After I replaced the clutch I had to break it in, so I didn't boost for a month, or more. Now I have this problem.

I checked yesterday to make sure all the grounds were re attached.

satch

iTrader: (1)

I'm not suggesting you should but have you tried to take a voltage reading at the ECU on the injector wire which has the dropping voltage? Doing so might help to eliminate some things.

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

Each injector has a wire that is constant and one that drops voltage. I could try revving in my driveway, but I doubt that would be a sufficient load to trigger the secondaries. Intriguing...what type of "things" might that eliminate, what kind of voltage should I be looking for?

satch

iTrader: (1)

You can mimmick load by disconnecting the vacuum hose to the Boost sensor, capping the hose and disconnecting the TPS (this is stated in the FSM). The dropping voltage is a head scratcher because w/key to "on" mine indicate 11.9 volts at the ECU injector pins and are constant voltage. Since you mentioned you have low impedance injectors the Resistor Pack might be a factor in your problem and Im not sure if it were if you would obviously get a different reading on the flip side of things (readings at the ECU). Lastly, make sure w/key to ACC that you cannot take voltage readings on these same wires.

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

I verified that w/ key to acc I get no voltage reading on the constant 12v pins. On the voltage dropping pins I get less than 1v.

W/ key to "on" I get 12v @ the ecu for ther pubs that show 12v @ the injector (surprise surprise, lol)

When u say u get "12v" at the injector pins are u talking about at the injector or at the ecu? Also, there are 2 wires to the injector, are both of your wires showing 12v?

satch

iTrader: (1)

I used the term "ECU injector pins" to describe the pins at the ECU that correlate to the injectors. Now that's clarified, what does " for ther pubs " mean? I think you're saying that the wire which gives you the falling voltage at the clip is reading 12 volts at the ECU. Correct?

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

Oops "for the pins"
No.
Pin "1" (@ injector) shows constant 12v
Pin "2" (@ injector) drops voltage when voltmeter is attached

Pin 1 shows 12v @ the ecu.

Should pin 2 also show 12v @ the ecu?
Should pin 2 show 12v @ the Injector?

I'm going to disconnect the resister box and see what happens....

satch

iTrader: (1)

First off don't disconnect the resistor box and try to run the engine for I've heard that it might damage the ECU. This might not be accurate so I would await on an opinion from someone who does know. Secondly, all injector wires at the ECU should register 12 volts w/key to on (these being the Light Green w/stripe wires) and all four wires at the injector clips that is Black/Yellow (again,comes from Main relay) also should have battery voltage w/key to on.

EDIT: Post #2 https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ance+injectors

D Walker

iTrader: (1)

Would you describe the "brick wall" as a stuttering, like you hit a rev limiter?

Things I would check-

Plugs and plug wires
coils
fuel pressure

FWIW you are likely not actually going lean, but are in fact going too rich when the secondaries come on. O2 sensors cannot read unburned fuel, so if it is misfiring at all you will not get a good read.

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

I wasn't going to try to run the engine lol, just check the voltage @ the injectors/ecu. Hmm, if all wires are supposed to be 12v @ the ecu, then they should be 12v @ the injector too, maybe this is the problem?

Reading link now...

Its almost like fuel cut.
Plugs have been checked.
Wires were replaced yesterday.
Coils are firing.
Fuel pressure was 40psi @ idle, it has been backed down to 30psi as of 3 days ago.

Im willing to accept that as a possibility, there just aren't any symptoms of running rich, no black smoke, no black plugs, no wet plugs, no rich smell....?

D Walker

iTrader: (1)

Are you still using a MAF?
Done a boost leak check?
What do the plugs look like when they are pulled?
Are you able to see your fuel pressure as you drive?
Is there a dyno close?

satch

iTrader: (1)

On a side note, when you checked for voltage on each of the two wires at the injector was the clip connected or disconnected from the injector?

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

OYes. Rtek 2.1
Yes, nothing significant. Especially not significant enough to cause a full on cessation of all acceleration, keep in mind this will occur while stol in vacuum as well if the rpms are high enough.
:Leading...

Trailing...

No.
No. not that I'm aware of.

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

Disconnected, the clips don't allow for back probing.

Edit: I reconnected the injector clips and all the light green wires read 12v @ the ecu. some of the black writes read 12v some read 0v. (this is all from the left most plug in the ecu)

HAILERS2

If this is a series four..............Pull the small ECU plug off.

Turn key to ON.

Probe each of the injector wires in the small ECU plug. They are colored......light green......light green/black.........light green/red.........light green/white.

All should read batt voltage and there should be no voltage drop.

Do not read the pins in the ECU itself, just those wires on the small ECU plug on your S4 car.

ECU wires can be backprobed. Unbolt the ECU so you can tilt it up to look directly into the plugs.

Use something like a paper clig and insert it in the back side of each injector wire and connect the paper clip to the digital meters lead. Neg meter lead attached to one of the ECU hold down bracket bolts.

Have someone sit in the right seat and observe the voltage reading as you drive the car. One wire at a time. Secondarys are the ones you interested in.

IF you meter did not read batt voltage when reading the injector wires.............something is amiss b/t the ECU small plug and the injector.

The way things work>......turn the key ON.........Main Relay pulls in and passes EGI INJ fuse power thru the solenoid resistor package (if car has one) to each injector. .........Power pases from there thru the injectors coil to the ECU small plug..........power goes inside the ECU to a injector driver which pulses a ground on that wire to turn the injetor open/**** ....in miliseconds.

I didn't read all the posts on this thread 'cause I'm tired and lazy.

Suggestion? tell us the color of the injector wire that gave you a voltage drop when you read it at the small ECU plug with the plug disconnected from the ECU.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Talk about missing out!

I believe the voltage drop occured at the injector clip while it was disconnected from said injector thus wouldn't this cause the voltage drop since the voltage from the B/Y wire passes through the injector onto the Light Green injector wires? I draw this conclusion based on a previous post by yours which suggested w/key to on and small plug removed from the ECU that the Light Green wires would have battery voltage on them so if the clip was removed from the injector then the voltage could not find its way onto the light Green wire. Correct?