tIIsleeper

So after my car sat the entire winter I decided to take it for a drive. AFR was normal, exactly what it used to be. After I get back I notice its leaking some coolant and of course it's from the hose under the intake manifold. I take everything off, find the problem and fix it. Then I remember I have newer injectors from my old engine sitting in the garage. So I decide to swap the primaries for newer ones. (Old primaries were covered in rust and coolant residue so I figured why not)

Purple top injectors are 550cc right? I googled it and saw that there is a dark purple and a lighter purple and I'm not sure which is which. No brand name on the injectors and no visible numbers except the ones someone wrote after they were flow tested.

So I get the car back together and start it up. Idles fine and the AFR at idle is around 12 which is normal. After it warms up a bit I rev it in neutral and I notice the AFR is higher than it used to be with no load. It used to be around 15-16(I think) and is now around 17-18. I take it for a drive and it drives fine but under light throttle and cruising the AFR is at 16.5-18 and is usually at 15-16. NO driveability issues though. Once I start boosting it goes down to 11-13 depending on boost which is normal from what I remember. When I pulled back into the driveway I saw that it was idling at 14 AFR and I just thought BS. I'm thinking the wideband is reading 1.5 to 2 points higher than normal....but once I boost it seems to be ok. My LC-1 has glitched out before and said I was running at 50 afr lol but that problem magically disappeared. Just wondering what you guys think. Again the car runs fine under any condition.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Recalibrate the gauge. Mine was showing about 1-2 full points richer about a month ago. Recalibrated it and all went back to normal. It said I was idling at 10.0 AFR, but the lack of black smoke told me that wasn't right.

Also, are you running an air pump on the car? 15-16 AFR when cruising isn't normal. Closed loop mode should keep it right around 14.7. Under light load, I normally see around 13 AFR. But I have no air pump to dilute the exhaust.

And the 50 AFR thing is one of the error modes when you overheat the sensor. Let it cool, then power cycle it, and it'll go back to normal. Over summer I had mine overheat a few times (even with a big copper heatsink).

HAILERS

Like ROTARYROCKET88 mentioned..........it sounds a lot like your running with ACV and airpump in operation. That accounts for what seemingly is/are high afr when they really are not.

If using ACV and airpump.......try this. Go to the ACV. Notice one of the three *vacuum * hose connects to a nipple on the ACV that sticks straight up???? Say yes. Pull that vacuum hose off and plug the HOSE. Leave the metal nipple as is. Now fully heat the engine up and observe the afr. At idle they should be much lower i.e 13's and when you go for a drive the afr's should have change from previous readings.

Then park the car and reattach the hose you removed and go about your business.

tIIsleeper

I realized what was causing the lean AFR readings right before I went to bed. One of the fuel injectors I used was in the tube for the air pump for a couple years(only thing I could find to plug it up back then LOL). I forgot to plug it back up so yes it is because of the air pump hose being open which like you mentioned is why it will read normal at times and then go crazy.

I dont have any stock o2 or NB sim going to the ecu at the moment. My car goes crazy under light throttle (cutting fuel sporadically for about 4 seconds then all of the sudden it goes back to normal) when I have the NB sim going to it from my lc-1. I've tried messing with it and going in with the laptop but it just doesn't work. NB sim is constantly putting out one volt. Anyone have a solution to this other than putting another bung in my downpipe?

Thanks guys

HAILERS

Maybe you didn't enter the right numbers on the page I attached to this thread? Yellow wire?

Seems someone with a LC-1 could tell you what the numbers should be or?????????????????????????????????????????

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

You can also try the innovate forum for detailed help. They'll answer tech questions. I can't suggest anything other than what HAILERS mentioned, since I kept my stock 02 sensor. I haven't tried using the narrowband sim.

tIIsleeper

I think I tried that a couple years ago HAILERS but what I entered wouldnt save. I'll try again sometime soon though. thanks

tIIsleeper

Got it back together after fixing a primary injector o-ring issue and after plugging up the air pump hose the lc-1 still reads high. I know 14 idle AFR is not possible so I'll be re-calibrating it

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

You probably already know, but removing the sensor from the exhaust or waiting 8+ hours since the engine last ran are the only ways to get it calibrated correctly. If the air pump is out of the picture, then calibration's bound to be your best bet. A stable 14 AFR idle just isn't happening .

tIIsleeper

So it wasn't the wideband being out of calibration. A primary fuel injector grommet wasn't sealing so air was entering through there. The car idled fine and ran fine, but when I revved it with no load I felt stumbling and one rotor somewhat cutting out. Problem solved! Also the piece of plastic covering the tip of the injector was cracked on one and the hole was off center which could have been part of the problem.