Lateral Link boot replacement : Write Up
03-20-06, 08:11 PM
#1
Lateral Link boot replacement : Write Up
Ok this is a write up for those who have worn dust boot covers on lateral links and wanna fix em up right.
First if you can't figure out how to get to the lateral links... then call mazda and make an appointment... or keep reading
You need:
A jack and jack stands (thems fer safety)
A good set of tools and a working knowledge of how to use them this should include a mallet also a small screwdriver
A balljoint installation kit (which I am fairly certain you can rent from autozone or something like that) or a fairly large C-Clamp (but I recommend the balljoint installation kit)
A 3 inch piece of 1 inch pvc pipe (make sure this fits over the dust boot but not over the plastic ring at the base of the dust boot)
A small tub of grease (I used Citgo brand with molydbendum was $3 for 1 lb)
4 new dust boots (mazda part # 8021-32-279)
Some nitrile or latex gloves if you don't wanna get SUPER DIRTY
Lets get started shall we:
Get the rear of the car up in the air and get some jack stands under it so it don't fall and crush you.
1. Remove the wheels
2. Disconnect the sway bar endlinks from the rear control arm and push them up (toward the front of the car) this gets them out of the way so the lateral link has spacefor removal.
3. Loosen the nuts on the lateral links on both the rear control arms and on the subframe. (refer to pictures for mount points)
4. Put the nut back on the lateral link so that the threads were ALMOST coming through. And then tap the nut with a mallet (be careful not to hit the nut to hard and strip the threading). I found in order to get the lateral link off the subframe use of the same socket used to remove the nut with a 4 or 5 inch long extension (once again tightening the nut from the link onto it so not to detsroy threading) and tap it with the mallet to push it out.
5. Once you have managed to remove the lateral links you can remove the dust boots with a small screw driver tapping it between the link and the base of the dust boot. Once you have unseated the dust boot work your way around it prying it up slowly with the screwdriver till it comes off freely. (refer to pictures for dust boot base)
6. Clean the grease from the lateral link and inspect for rust or any dirt that may have gotten in due to bad,cracked, or worn dust boots. Make sure that the joint moves freely but stiffly and consistently, if it has a jerky movement (catching in places and then releasing in others) then it may need to be replaced, but if there is a smooth and fluid movement throughout the range of motion than it is all good. If the joints all check out to be good then make sure you recoat them with fresh grease and get read to install new dust boots.
7. Get out your balljoint installation kit (or if your goin ghetto get out your large c-clamp), the grease, your new dust boots, and the 1 inch pvc piping (if your using the c-clamp you will need something flat or a large socket to fit over the end of the pvc pipe when you tighten the clamp onto it)
8. Pack the new dust boots with grease. I just used one finger and got a small glob of grease on it and put it into the dust boot. Working my way around the edges of it till it was full and then I kinda packed it in till it was squeezing out the other end a little (don't want air bubbles in there). I found that if you fill the dust boots about 90% full leaving some space for the lip of the lateral link you have minimal mess when you press it into place. Once all the dust boots are greased up then you can place them on the lateral links cleaning the grease off the end of the threaded area to help with minimizing mess. (Refer to pictures)
Now your ready to press them into place... Once again I recommend the balljoint installation tools, due to the right tool for the right job equals less chance of needing to replace parts due to f'n stuff up from ghetto rigging. With that said tho...
9. Grease up the inside of the pvc pipe a little to help it slide down the dust boot and place the lateral link in place. (refer to pictures) Press the new dust boots onto the lateral link with your balljoint installation kit or your c-clamp, making sure that the dust boot is pressed into place evenly and completely seated on the lateral link. Then with a small hammer or a wrench tap the pvc pipe off the dust boot making sure not to pull the dust boot off from its place. Then clean up excess grease and inspect the dust boot for proper seating and installation (should be seated all the way around and have no tears/cracks in dust boot). Repeat this process until all the new dust boots are installed. (refer to pictures)
10. With the new dust boots in place you can reinstall the lateral links making sure to tighten the nuts to the specified torque. ALSO make sure to reconnect the endlinks from the sway bars tightening those to specified torque as well. (refer to picture or FSM)
First if you can't figure out how to get to the lateral links... then call mazda and make an appointment... or keep reading
You need:
A jack and jack stands (thems fer safety)
A good set of tools and a working knowledge of how to use them this should include a mallet also a small screwdriver
A balljoint installation kit (which I am fairly certain you can rent from autozone or something like that) or a fairly large C-Clamp (but I recommend the balljoint installation kit)
A 3 inch piece of 1 inch pvc pipe (make sure this fits over the dust boot but not over the plastic ring at the base of the dust boot)
A small tub of grease (I used Citgo brand with molydbendum was $3 for 1 lb)
4 new dust boots (mazda part # 8021-32-279)
Some nitrile or latex gloves if you don't wanna get SUPER DIRTY
Lets get started shall we:
Get the rear of the car up in the air and get some jack stands under it so it don't fall and crush you.
1. Remove the wheels
2. Disconnect the sway bar endlinks from the rear control arm and push them up (toward the front of the car) this gets them out of the way so the lateral link has spacefor removal.
3. Loosen the nuts on the lateral links on both the rear control arms and on the subframe. (refer to pictures for mount points)
4. Put the nut back on the lateral link so that the threads were ALMOST coming through. And then tap the nut with a mallet (be careful not to hit the nut to hard and strip the threading). I found in order to get the lateral link off the subframe use of the same socket used to remove the nut with a 4 or 5 inch long extension (once again tightening the nut from the link onto it so not to detsroy threading) and tap it with the mallet to push it out.
5. Once you have managed to remove the lateral links you can remove the dust boots with a small screw driver tapping it between the link and the base of the dust boot. Once you have unseated the dust boot work your way around it prying it up slowly with the screwdriver till it comes off freely. (refer to pictures for dust boot base)
6. Clean the grease from the lateral link and inspect for rust or any dirt that may have gotten in due to bad,cracked, or worn dust boots. Make sure that the joint moves freely but stiffly and consistently, if it has a jerky movement (catching in places and then releasing in others) then it may need to be replaced, but if there is a smooth and fluid movement throughout the range of motion than it is all good. If the joints all check out to be good then make sure you recoat them with fresh grease and get read to install new dust boots.
7. Get out your balljoint installation kit (or if your goin ghetto get out your large c-clamp), the grease, your new dust boots, and the 1 inch pvc piping (if your using the c-clamp you will need something flat or a large socket to fit over the end of the pvc pipe when you tighten the clamp onto it)
8. Pack the new dust boots with grease. I just used one finger and got a small glob of grease on it and put it into the dust boot. Working my way around the edges of it till it was full and then I kinda packed it in till it was squeezing out the other end a little (don't want air bubbles in there). I found that if you fill the dust boots about 90% full leaving some space for the lip of the lateral link you have minimal mess when you press it into place. Once all the dust boots are greased up then you can place them on the lateral links cleaning the grease off the end of the threaded area to help with minimizing mess. (Refer to pictures)
Now your ready to press them into place... Once again I recommend the balljoint installation tools, due to the right tool for the right job equals less chance of needing to replace parts due to f'n stuff up from ghetto rigging. With that said tho...
9. Grease up the inside of the pvc pipe a little to help it slide down the dust boot and place the lateral link in place. (refer to pictures) Press the new dust boots onto the lateral link with your balljoint installation kit or your c-clamp, making sure that the dust boot is pressed into place evenly and completely seated on the lateral link. Then with a small hammer or a wrench tap the pvc pipe off the dust boot making sure not to pull the dust boot off from its place. Then clean up excess grease and inspect the dust boot for proper seating and installation (should be seated all the way around and have no tears/cracks in dust boot). Repeat this process until all the new dust boots are installed. (refer to pictures)
10. With the new dust boots in place you can reinstall the lateral links making sure to tighten the nuts to the specified torque. ALSO make sure to reconnect the endlinks from the sway bars tightening those to specified torque as well. (refer to picture or FSM)
03-20-06, 08:35 PM
#6
excellent... I am pretty sure it covers everything.. if there is something I missed then make sure you add it in here... I would have added the nut sizes on the lateral links... I think they are 14mm but I dunno since I replaced all the nuts and bolts and almost everything in the rear end of my car when I did the bushing replacement and painting.
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03-21-06, 08:46 PM
#8
I R SAD PANDA W/O BAW
I've had good luck with BFH (big ******* hammer) and/or finding thick metal washers or a metal sleeve that goes over the studs to help put tension on and pull the stud through.
Last edited by ilike2eatricers; 03-21-06 at 08:49 PM.
03-21-06, 11:32 PM
#9
Haven't we ALL heard this
If they spin when you put torque on them I would say the balljoint is shot. Replace the link time.
Although, they are hella pricey.
Just one note to your very good write up.
It is important to note the Lateral links go in only one way. Each head is different and it is important to note the oriontation.
If you screw that up and tighten things down...its gonna be hard to get off.
James
Although, they are hella pricey.
Just one note to your very good write up.
It is important to note the Lateral links go in only one way. Each head is different and it is important to note the oriontation.
If you screw that up and tighten things down...its gonna be hard to get off.
James
03-24-06, 05:19 PM
#10
Originally Posted by Wankel7
If they spin when you put torque on them I would say the balljoint is shot. Replace the link time.
Although, they are hella pricey.
Just one note to your very good write up.
It is important to note the Lateral links go in only one way. Each head is different and it is important to note the oriontation.
If you screw that up and tighten things down...its gonna be hard to get off.
James
Although, they are hella pricey.
Just one note to your very good write up.
It is important to note the Lateral links go in only one way. Each head is different and it is important to note the oriontation.
If you screw that up and tighten things down...its gonna be hard to get off.
James
Well thats kinda why I put in lotsa pictures and when I tried to install them I noticed that they are kinda idiot proof as far as the installation into subframe...
Originally Posted by dennis blackstone
one quick question i tried to tighten the bolt but it keeps spinning do i need something to hold it down
Yes your balljoint part is most likely screwed and needs replacing... you can prolly try and pick up some used ones and hope for better luck...
But I didn't even consider this problem when I did the writeup since mine were in great shape except a slight amount of rust due to cracked boots when I pulled them.
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