Killer idle!
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Killer idle!
OK my car hasn't idled, for a while (I really can't remember when it idled last). And I want to be able to start it and hear it run at 1,000- RPM's, but all I have been hearing latly is 1,500-2,000 RPM's, and I was told to block off the BAC valve and it would help it. So I did that, and all I did was make a plate to put inbetween the BACV, and the DC (dynamic chamber). And it didn't help my idle, but it did cause my car to start up 2-3 times faster. So I am happy about that, but I am wondering what is causeing my car to idle like crap, so if anyone knows, your knowledge would be greatly appriciated.
Thanks, Cory
Thanks, Cory
#2
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Have you checked your OMP lines and the spider itself? that is one main problem for our cars that is not really talked about. After going to pre-mix my idle smothed out and leveled out at 1k I then go it to 750 but right now I have to re-set it since I think I messed up my TPS
Santiago
Santiago
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does it still idle high after the car is warmed up? Our cars have a high idle to aid in warm up for emissions, after the car is close to operating temp, the idle will lower.
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Have you checked your OMP lines and the spider itself?
I don't think they affect my car when they are sitting on a shelf in our garage.
And I don't know if the OMP system would affect the car anyways. Would they???
And I have set my TPS, but the funny thing is that pretty much no matter how much I ajusted it, there would always be 1 light on my tester that was turned on. And at a very small point both lights would come on. And no I didn't have it hooked up wrong.
And I might need to set my timing but I don't have a timing light, and I can't emagine that it would just all of a sudden knock the timing out of wack.
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does it still idle high after the car is warmed up? Our cars have a high idle to aid in warm up for emissions, after the car is close to operating temp, the idle will lower.
Yes I know what your talking about, and it used to do that, but I have the throttle held open by the CC (cruise control) so that it will run without dyeing. If I loosen it up so that it lets the throttle close. All it will do is spudder and die.
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I have pluged all the vacume lines, and there are none left that are leaking. But it does sound like there is a vacume leak, but I am not sure if it is the alternator, or if it is a leak in the TB. I have RTVed the whole intake (all the gaskets), and that helped the idle a little bit, but not enough for it to keep running without the CC cable holding the throtle open.
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So you blocked off your BAC vavle? Hope you dont plan on using your A/C......................
I don't have AC or PS. So that is no problem. But I am still wondering were is the fast idle screw, I will check out a manual, but I have looked for it once before with no sucess.
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Ah never mind. I see its a series 4. Not sure where it is on a series 4. I think on series 4 though it was on the bac if im thinking of the right screw.
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Originally posted by Cory Simpson
I don't have AC or PS. So that is no problem. But I am still wondering were is the fast idle screw, I will check out a manual, but I have looked for it once before with no sucess.
I don't have AC or PS. So that is no problem. But I am still wondering were is the fast idle screw, I will check out a manual, but I have looked for it once before with no sucess.
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