OK my car hasn't idled, for a while (I really can't remember when it idled last). And I want to be able to start it and hear it run at 1,000- RPM's, but all I have been hearing latly is 1,500-2,000 RPM's, and I was told to block off the BAC valve and it would help it. So I did that, and all I did was make a plate to put inbetween the BACV, and the DC (dynamic chamber). And it didn't help my idle, but it did cause my car to start up 2-3 times faster. So I am happy about that, but I am wondering what is causeing my car to idle like crap, so if anyone knows, your knowledge would be greatly appriciated.



Thanks, Cory

 

Have you checked your OMP lines and the spider itself? that is one main problem for our cars that is not really talked about. After going to pre-mix my idle smothed out and leveled out at 1k I then go it to 750 but right now I have to re-set it since I think I messed up my TPS

Santiago

 

does it still idle high after the car is warmed up? Our cars have a high idle to aid in warm up for emissions, after the car is close to operating temp, the idle will lower.

 

I don't think they affect my car when they are sitting on a shelf in our garage.


And I don't know if the OMP system would affect the car anyways. Would they???

And I have set my TPS, but the funny thing is that pretty much no matter how much I ajusted it, there would always be 1 light on my tester that was turned on. And at a very small point both lights would come on. And no I didn't have it hooked up wrong.


And I might need to set my timing but I don't have a timing light, and I can't emagine that it would just all of a sudden knock the timing out of wack.

 

Yes I know what your talking about, and it used to do that, but I have the throttle held open by the CC (cruise control) so that it will run without dyeing. If I loosen it up so that it lets the throttle close. All it will do is spudder and die.

 

The OMP system has vacume line that often get ignored. That is what I am talking about not the oil lines.

Santiago

 

I have pluged all the vacume lines, and there are none left that are leaking. But it does sound like there is a vacume leak, but I am not sure if it is the alternator, or if it is a leak in the TB. I have RTVed the whole intake (all the gaskets), and that helped the idle a little bit, but not enough for it to keep running without the CC cable holding the throtle open.

 

Hummm, can anyone explain to me were the fast idle cam's screw is.

 

So you blocked off your BAC vavle? Hope you dont plan on using your A/C......................

 

I don't have AC or PS. So that is no problem. But I am still wondering were is the fast idle screw, I will check out a manual, but I have looked for it once before with no sucess.

 

What series is your car?

 

Ah never mind. I see its a series 4. Not sure where it is on a series 4. I think on series 4 though it was on the bac if im thinking of the right screw.

 

It's between the throttle body and firewall. A real bitch to get at without taking the TB off. Check out page 4A-56 in the FSM.

 

What do you mean by that. And if I can't get to it how do I set it???

 

Ignor the ignorance above, I figured the FSM out, and I am reading it right now.