djmtsu

iTrader: (3)

Well I just got another FC and I couldn't be happier. However years of driving an Accord and my wife's Grand Cherokee have made me somewhat lazy. I want to install keyless entry. I do have another motive however, something has either lodged itself or whatever into the driver's side lock, and the key doesn't go in far enough anymore to unlock it. Also the trunk lock is FUBAR somehow too. (that doesn't really bother me, I still have my release lever) So I have a few questions...

What brand should I go with? (reliability, quality)
I don't really need a badass alarm (if that changes anything)
Will the stock alarm disarm when the keyless actuators unlock the car?
Will I ever fix the actual lock cylinders?

Thanks guys. I did a search and found a few tidbits, but I am looking for some definitive answers, maybe turn this into a FAQ.

DJ

onePOINTthree

autolock makes bullit proof lock acuators, or you can always goto a junk yard and pull off some acuators for cheep I cant really help you with the alarm questions

T2monster

go DEI for keyless systems. Most keyless systems have a lead for ground out when disarmed (for disarming factory systems). you'll have to install a door lock actuator in the drivers door, and run 3 wires into the door.

djmtsu

iTrader: (3)

Good, good keep' em coming.

Has anyone done a system they are proud of, that works well?

Those two companies I know make good products.

How about anyone with installation tips.

T2monster

it's what I do part time at Circuit City. I'm the only guy in our location that installs alarm/keyless/remote start/ custom stuff.

Tips for install would be to buy a good multimeter and have a decent soldering iron or preferably gun. Solder/heatshrink all connections.

jhammons01

^T2 if you install them,don't you have preferences/suggestions on brands installs etc.???

djmtsu

iTrader: (3)

I've been doing some quick research and I think I am gonna go with AutoLoc. They have a 2 door keyless entry system with 2 remotes, actuators, wiring and relays for about $125. Thats not too bad from what I can find. Also I figure the factory alarm is good enough for me.

Now I need some install help. Not with the wiring, thats no problem for me. Mostly with the actuator installation and a good safe location for the ECU.

Again, thanks, so far so good.

T2monster

^^I gave my suggestions; Autoloc, and DEI.

Module location in a T2 that is safe. 2 choices for me; under the center console or behind the glove box. I've also put them in the driver's kick panel, but it's a little messy.

Psygnosis7

I was wondering how adding actuators to manual door locks would effect the factory "alarm." Normaly when you lock the car from inside and close the door, it beeps. Then you have to use the key to unlock the door. If you don't, say you have the window down then reach in unlock and open the door, the alarm goes off. Wouldn't the actuator unlocking the door be similar to just unlocking the door from the inside?

marshp

hey there, im also wondering the same, as well did anyone do a write up for this? or can anyone? i need help! thanks.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

would be nice to have a writeup on installing alarms/remote locks, there isn't a ton of info about it on this forum. i am working on installing my own paging alarm but i know it is going to be an ordeal without the proper wiring schematics but i guess i will do it when i have the time.

Icemark

I have quite a few times posted the wiring for adding a security system to the stock one, or just adding a aftermarket system.

As far as wiring actuators for the driver's (and possible passenger's door if not equipped with factory power locks), it is a very straight forward 5 wire set up requiring 2 relays.

To disarm the factory system, (again ) you would need to pulse a ground to the key switch wire (as posted before- Green/Black found in the drivers kick panel, or at the factory security unit) when ever unlocking with the keyless. The green/black can again be tested by turning the key to the unlock position in the drivers door- it will have ground when the key is in the unlock position.

I too recommend the DEI keyless and security systems. I worked for DEI for 7 years, and although that was a few years back now, many of the products made are second to none.

deltr0n`

ive got a mazda factory keyless entry system for an FC... that retails for about $400.. last i checked with the dealer there was only one new one left in the country and it was alabama or something like that at a warehouse. i've got 2 of them, so if interested i can get the part number and some pics... its out in the garage.

RSVampire

I say if your gunna go through the trouble of it, get a decent DEI alarm that has keyless entry on it already. You can pick one up for like $200-$300 I believe. Then you don't have to worry about disabling the factory alarm at all for unlocking doors and crap like that.

T2monster

$300 with DEI will get a Viper 550 with enough relays and a door lock actuator to do everything.

djmtsu

iTrader: (3)

I kinda understand that. How do you "pulse a ground"?

Icemark

"T" off the unlock (-) output of the aftermarket security or Keyless system, with a diode or relay. That diode or relay then will send the signal to the green/black.

djmtsu

iTrader: (3)

Is there a specific relay or diode I will need. I can get just about any automotive style relay at work. The diode, I guess what, Radio Shack?

PS- Thanks Icemark. I know you have gone over this before, but this thread is way more useful than the ones I found searching. Thanks again.

Icemark

If you use diodes, use 1N4004, with the bar (called the Cathode side) of the diodes facing toward the keyless/ aftermarket alarm. You would use one on the wire going to the relay for the unlock on the aftermarket keyless entry /security system and one "T"'d off the factory Mazda disarm wire. So the two diodes would "Y" into the unlock out out wire of the keyless/aftermarket security system. Again the Bar of the diodes facing towards the keyless/aftermarket system.

If you used a relay, any 12 volt automotive relay would work, and it too would wire the same way as the diode for the disarm wire, except you would wire the unlock output of the keyless to 85, 12 volts to 86, ground to 30 and the "T"'d off factory disarm (grn/blk) to the 87 pin of the relay.

djmtsu

iTrader: (3)

You rule.

marshp

if only i understood electrical... at all