beefhole

iTrader: (29)

oh god MORE things going wrong with this car. I suspect the main relay, but I really don't know...

Last night I finally took the car out after being down for 7-8 weeks. It started right up and drove perfectly. When I got home I let it idle for around 5 minutes (to check for any leaks and test some things). I shut it off and went to start it again right away (checking hot starts, I have a "new" tune on a standalone computer) and nothing happened! Everything lights up, dash, idiot lights, logicon et cetera with key to acc/on. So... I have power to everything and the switch must be working right? When held to start, I can't hear anything except my haltech clicking. I'm thinking I should be hearing the main relay no? I tried to jumper the clutch switch and nothing changed.

The car was running, shut down, and within 30 seconds this happened. Once again, shutting the car off resulted in something dying. I'm not going to do anything else tonight, but I'll check back tomorrow.

Remember, car has an aftermarket computer so I don't have to troubleshoot the circuit opening relay or anything.

Car has a lot of miles on it, everything seems to be crapping out lately.

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

ok I found this thread. This is what I needed! Going to try these things tomorrow
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/ive-solves-2nd-gen-sticky-starter-mystery-896013/

satch

iTrader: (1)

If you don't hear the Main relay click w/key to on then the thing you want to check is the 15 amp Engine fuse in the interior fuse box.

Black/Red wire at interlock switch on the clutch pedal should have voltage w/key to start.

Black/Green wire at interlock switch should have voltage w/pedal depressed and key to start. B/G wire at blue plug near Main relay should again have voltage w/key to start and clutch depressed.

If the above checks out properly and car has factory alarm then remove plug from the Starter Cut relay. Then w/key to on identify which B/G wire in the plug has voltage with key to on. Then jumper the B/G wire which does not have voltage w/key to on to the B/W wire in the plug. Then try to start the car.

With the two wires jumpered the Black/White wire in blue plug/plug from Starter Cut relay should now have voltage w/key to start and clutch depressed. If it does and starter doesn't turn over then locate where the B/W wire that leaves the plug which connects to a two wire connector that has two B/W wires. This connector is located between the plug and the starter solenoid. Make sure the connection is good. If the B/W wire at the blue plug has voltage when the stated conditions are met then both the B/W wires in the connector (one goes to starter solenoid and the other goes to the ECU) should have voltage. If they have voltage,especially the one that connects to the starter solenoid, then the starter is receiving the proper signal from the start circuit but if the starter does not turn over a poor ground or the cable from the positive battery terminal is no good at the starter or at the battery or the starter is no good.

These are a few things you should check. If the idiot lights turn on w/key to on then that indicates the Main fuse is good.

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

OK i've run some tests and found that the black/red wire on the clutch interlock does NOT have voltage with the key to start. Where does that power source come from?

satch

iTrader: (1)

The ignition switch. To check if your ignition switch is receiving voltage you need to turn the key to on and see if the wipers or turn signals work. If not then the ignition switch is not receiving voltage which could be a function of the Main fuse in the Engine fuse box being blown among a few other things.

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

something very wrong here. Everything works (wipers... heater...). Not getting voltage at that wire...

I see it kind of disappears into the fuse box

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

OK my mistake. I had a bad ground area. I get voltage on that wire with key to start. So now that green goes to the relay, I will try to jumper the wire there to the black/white wire to the starter.

satch

iTrader: (1)

I knew it had to be something. For those who are not familiar with a good grounding point to use down in that area can you share with them what you used as the ground?

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

OK wires everywhere are good... looks like the starter has quit!

FelixIsGod29X

iTrader: (50)

try pop starting it first!

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

I tried the Italian method and hit it with a hammer, no good. But the wiring is good all the way through

FelixIsGod29X

iTrader: (50)

Then i'd at least take it out and get it tested before buying a new one. GL

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

I should clarify. I meant when I was testing the black/red wire I was using a light. I didn't ground properly (good area) and thus I thought the wire was dead because it didn't light up.

Anyway, some more insight and an idea of mine. Since I don't have any stock theft deterrent, I'm simply going to skip the starter relay. I'm going to run a new wire from the clutch interlock switch (this I like to keep) straight to the starter solenoid. I think this should free up some wires and another area where something could go wrong. Also I have OCD and I can't stand the sight of wires doing/running to nothing.

satch

iTrader: (1)

This might not be the best idea because between the blue plug and the starter solenoid the B/W wire goes to a connector, which divides the B/W in two, where one goes to the starter solenoid, while the other goes to pin 3B of the ECU, which is the start signal for the ECU.

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

^ wink wink... I run a haltech.
Other than this, I should be ok I think. Going over my wires, I saw that the B/W fed from relay attached right to the starter solenoid wire at the connector. The previous "split" must have been removed.