holy ghetto hacked batman. i would use that to go and have some make a proper one. i dont think that is going to enjoy the insane heat its going to be exposed to.

 

idk man, did you see aarons custom downpipe? as i recall the heat from the welder was poing holes in it, so he jsut like, piled weld on. i dont think a welder is cutting through this bad boy

 

You can easily have most any local exhaust shop build one that'll work pretty good for relatively cheap.

 

yeah, thats most definitly what im gonna have done sonic, along with my IC piping.

 

whoa

thats crazy

 

I love this forum. Where else would I get to see **** like this. You can really comes up with some crazy **** when you don't want to give Racing beat $130 for a mandrell bent 3 inch down pipe. And with the heat of the rotary you will loose those welds in 1 week

 

Hits the floor in this setup, so what's the point of paying $130 for something you can't use? (I think that's only been mentioned 5 times now)

 

well....gotta love Aaroncakes as well



thats some serious welding

 

You try and do better welding 3MM sheet metal to cast plumbing pipe with 1/4" rods. The whole story behind that piece is that it was put together to be VERY temporary. Took all of half an hour to build, out of basically spare parts that I just happened to have. The idea was to get the car back on the road, and then make a proper downpipe later on. That never happened, and I actually ended up using that piece for about 15K. It remained together and leak free for that entire time. Of course, now it's in my scrap metal pile...

 

you get the title

the "McGivering Martha Stewart of the Rx7 World"

 

^^^Aaron gets my award for being the coolest person ever. hell, chances are my downpipe is going to look about 1000x worse than all these

 

Funny how you don't read or comprehend this project, which has been beaten to death on this forum, fully.

It's easy to put down something you have no clue about

 

I didn't notice this post earlier.

1. Standard TII downpipes won't fit cars that use the adapter to space out the turbo. "Smallish" 2.5" pipes MIGHT fit, but it will be very tight as they run into the firewall. 3" pipes definitly DO NOT fit.

2. Those (terrible, I agree) welds on my downpipe were fine for the 10 months I drove the car after the turbo install.

3. If find "and with the heat of the rotary..." comments funny. Please explain to me how 1/4" thick cast iron plumbing pipe is more prone to cracking then the 1/8" downpipe. The same goes for the welds.

Yes, I totally agree that both those downpipes adapters (especially mine) suck. And there's also no reason not to make a totally custom piece. But I think you're overreacting quite a bit...

 

what thickness is good enough for the downpipe?? im just gonna tow my car to my local garage hand them my flanges and have them make it!! how much could it really set me back for somthin i really dont wanna worry about next summer!! though i am a little nervous firing it up for the first time at some garage and making it home! maybe ill prime the gas and oil BEFORE i take it up so i dont get any surprises.

 

If you want it to last, 12 gauge stainless.

 

i love picking u tips from everyone elses questions i swear its the best way to learn.


so..**** started getting delivered to my house today, and its like freaking christmas

freakin rotary christmas

 

I hope that the bulk of people take the time to do a better job then those two examples.. You did it yourself and I'm not trying to take anythng away from that.. but thier has to be a point where you have to say.. " this is really awful.. I should go spend a few bucks and hae it done right "...

THis was built at home as well.. for a NA to Trubo project the turbo is a custom T03a turbine side .83 A/R with a OS shaft - P trim the compressor is a 71mm, in a modified .60a/r housing.. this is a low to mid range setup not for top end hp.

 

Holy hell, thats the way that it should be done (at least in my opinion).

The examples above are crude to say in the least, but I hope the best for the setup.

 

that last picture is a pretty impresive custom setup looks good

 

^^ nice, but looks like hes using turbo UIM and LIM's thiers no way that downpipe would fit with the n/a manifolds

 

Who knows...

If you make a completely custom manifold for the turbo you can move it to wherever you need, forward/up/etc. Then with a completely custom downpipe from that position I'm sure you could make it work, all depends on where the turbo ends up.

The 3" downpipe, according to Aaron, doesn't fit using the "spacer" method, since it move it out so far.

 

Actually It's a 100% custom intake manifold.. I'll pop up some pics when it's off the CNC table.. I had to cut and move the PS down 4" so I could run the Intake al la T II I was going to use the RE intake but thought it would be just as easy to make a 100% new manifold for it, clean up the flow remove allot of useless ports and casting plugs along the way..

The NA S5 UIM/LIM DOES fit but it's WAY too close for my liking.. too much heat soak and too many compromizes in intake flow due to clearencing the CAI/IC in&out tubes. would have been SO much easier just to use the stock NA but I wanted the low end to come on fast. being **** about that stuff i went and built my own intake mani. in Rhino. Punched it out to G code and it's done..

Again , I'm not taking anything away from the guys who did thier own work.. the fact that you took the time to do it yourself is laudable for sure and it's a small group that can say they have done it themselves.. The younger guys in particular..

 

A bit of a minor nitpick: Clearly you have access (or own) a TIG setup. And since in another post you mention CNC, you also have access to a machine shop. Most people don't have this kind of equipment. When I did mine, all I had was a buzz box (and it shows). Most people don't even have access to any kind of welder, hence you see things like plumbing parts. In my opinion, that stuff is fine for temporary use, but with the relative ease that a "proper" downpipe is constructed by anyone with access to a MIG, those temporary parts are not necessary. I mainly used cheap parts because at the time I was one of very few people to do this project, and I needed to work from scratch. Now, people have all of my writeups and even those from others to help, so I don't really see the need for plumbing "hacks".

That said, a 2" cast 90 degree elbow is the PERFECT shape for the first 90 degree bend after the turbo, and with the thickness, it will never crack.

 

I have a TIG welder, not many people do that is true.. but a 175 Lincon mig can be had for under $800, that can pay it's self off in odd jobs for other people in no time. a used 175 I've seen FS at much less, co-op a 175 with a few buddies.
Tubing can be had fom any number of sources around ontario, ( metal supermarket is a good start ), as long as it's the std. full and 1/2 size stuff you can order up lenghts from just about anywhere. as long as you ahve the 3D drawing and material most CnC shops will charge a small fee to G code and then cut time.. in aluminum I'd suspect the cost is less then buying a UIM/LIM off ebay for an REW.

 

I love MetalSupermarkets. I'm there several times a week. But if you are just hacking together something temporary, cast plumbing bends are a heck of a lot cheaper then "proper" tubing bends.