g14novak

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I just finished my motor swap. Everything went smoothly, I went to try to start it and it cranked really slow. Tried 2 different batterys, Jumping it, nothing worked.

Any Ideas?

dawicka2

did you rebuild the engine or was it out of a running t2? More details?

john ny

g14novak

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Not a TII, sorry I didn't give more info.

Out of a running N/A Automatic S5. I swapped the flywheel and front weight. Maybe 90k on it.

g14novak

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Little different symptoms now. It cranks full speed now, but theirs no fuel. Positive wire for the fuel pump has been rewired, but still nothing. I guess this means my fuel pump is bad? I'm going to borrow my multimeter from work tomorrow to make sure its getting power...

HAILERS

You really NEED to check the main ground for the starter (in reality most everything elect on the car/engine). The ground wire from the battery negative post goes directly to the long bolt for the starter. It is ok if it's bolted to one of the transmission to engine bolts, but it must be tightened down to some part of the engine/transmission for the starter to turn over in a normal fashion.

That same ground wire from the batt neg post to the starter, also splits off and attaches to the chassis down at the bottom of the left front strut tower.

No good ground equals sluggish starter action and electrical items burning up.

g14novak

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, that was what was wrong with it actually. Their was a BIG ground off, but I attached it to the rear of the drivers side of the motor. To one of the engine-transmission bolts. It started cranking full speed, but still no fuel.

The fuel pump doesn't even come on when I put the ignition in the on position. I don't understand why all of this wiring is messed up, I didn't have to unhook much when I pulled the engine and I'm fairly sure I hooked it all back up when I put the new engine in...

HAILERS

Fuel pump does not run when the key is put to ON.

Fuel pump runs when the key is HELD to START.

Fuel pump runs when the engine is running and pulling the afm vane aft at least a 1/8".

Fuel pump runs if the key is put to ON and the yellow fuel pump check connector is jumpered.

Fuel pump will NOT run if the ENGINE fuse is blown. IF you hear the Main RElay pull in when the key is put to ON, then that fuse isn't blown.

g14novak

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, the main relay works. All my lights work, headlights, tail lights, inside lights. car cranks, just no fuel.

I'm reading on another thread that the relay for the fuel pump is underneath the passenger side headlight so I'll take a look at that when I get home.

g14novak

iTrader: (1)

I suppose I should give full info for my car so you can understand.

89' GTU
EFI system removed, carb'd setup. Jaytech IM to Holley carb.

To my understanding, as soon as I move the ignition to the on position, the fuel pump should come on since theirs no vacuum lines. I'm really confused.

Any ideas on what colors the wires should be for the fuel pump on the front passenger side headlight? Can't seem to find anything on wiring the fuel pump in the FSM.

I'm going to try to take pictures . I just need to find my camera.

HAILERS

To my understanding, as soon as I move the ignition to the on position, the fuel pump should come on since theirs no vacuum lines. I'm really confused.***************************************** ************************************************** *******************************
Is there some part of the first sentence I wrote in my last post, that you don't understand? These words: "Fuel pump does not run when the key is put to ON. "

And since you have a series five, forget what I said about the vane in the afm. The other words do apply.

Try jumpering the yellow, two socket, fuel pump check connector. A jpg is attached of where it's general location is, even if the jpg is for a series four. Jumper the connector and then key to ON. Listen for the fuel pump running or not.

HAILERS

.The fuel pump works like the jpg. There are two coils in that relay that can pull it in and send power to the Fuel Pump Relay on the bulkhead behind the front right headlight.

Coil one pulls in when you go to START with the key. It sends power to the starter solenoid and the Coil One in the jpg. The relay pulls in, and IF the ENGINE fuse is good, sends power thru that relay to the Fuel PUmp Relay.

The other coil only pulls in if the afm's guts are being pulled aft, OR if the yellow fuel pump check connector is jumpered. If that happens, then power is sent to the Fuel Pump Relay in the same manner as just mentioned.

If you think the above is happening, and the pump isn't running, then pull the plug off the Fuel Pump Relay and see if there's power on the three L/R (blue/red) wires. And if not, work it out from there.

g14novak

iTrader: (1)

Thanks HAILERS. If I'm looking at that picture right, I think I hooked a few things up wrong. I hope I didn't fry anything... I'll go out and move the plugs around to the right spots later today and see what happens.

g14novak

iTrader: (1)

Found the connector and jumped the pins. Nothing happened. I'm guessing since I haven't messed with any wires except what was in the engine bay, my fuel pump may be bad? That doesn't make sense though, it worked perfectly fine before.

HAILERS

So. Is your ENGINE fuse good?

If it's good, then go to the Circuit opening relay just above the steering column. About where your knees would be, but above the steering column. Yellow in color I think. PUll the relay out.

In the relay socket, there is a black/white wire, in the middle top of that socket. See if there's batt voltage there when the key is ON.

IF there is batt voltage there with the key to ON, then get a piece of wire and jumper b/t the B/W wire and the Blue/Red (L/R) wire and with the key to ON, the pump should work.

IF the pump does not work, leave the jumper in and go up to the front of the car and pull the Fuel Pump Relay plug off. With a meter see if there's batt voltage on the L/R wires (3) in that plug. Should be there.

If it's there, then jumper b/t either L/R wire and the Blue/Green wire. Pump should run. IF it does not run, then go to the fuel pumps elect plug, and see if there's batt power on the Blue/Green wire or not. No power there means the front to rear harness plug FR-02 is disconnected. Not likely at all to be that.

Actually, work this backwards from the above. Key ON, jumper in the fuel pump check connector........then check the blue/green wire in the fuel pumps elect plug for power.

Another thing you could check with a meter, is the check connector. The connector has a black and a brown wire. Check the Black one for continuity to gnd. Should be less than an ohm. Oh well, if it's two or three ohms it should have worked too.

When you jumpering the brown to the black all your doing is putting a ground on the Circuit Opening Relay to pull that relay in if the key is to ON. So you want to make sure that check connectors black wire is indeed grounded. IF not grounded. then jumper the brown wire to a known ground point with the key to ON and the fuel pump should run.

Or check out the OTHER coil in the circuit opening relay. PUll the small wire off the blade on the starter solenoid. Now turn and HOLD the key to START. The fuel pump should run if the engine fuse is good and the stock Starting wire circuit has not been messed with.

g14novak

iTrader: (1)

This is just a headache and a half. On the plug to the fuel pump, their are 3 wires. 1 goes to the power, 1 is a ground, and the other goes to the ignition if im not mistaken. What colors match up to what? I'm just going to run a switch to turn the fuel pump on and off.

HAILERS

The series five book shows four wires at the plug. The wire colors are the colors of the wires on the REAR harness plug. The color of the wires on the fuel pump pigtail are unknown. You just connect the plugs and match the REAR harenss colors with the pigtail colors.

Blue/Green is power. Black is the ground. The other colors are what the jpg says. Not related to the pump at all.

I've no idea why your car has but three wires.

g14novak

iTrader: (1)

Upon stripping the wire that goes by the strut tower underneath the cover, it DOES have 4, but only 3 go into the fuel pump plug? Doesn't make much sense, but once I rewired it to a switch, it worked flawlessly. Thanks for the help hailers! I owe you a arm and a leg!

J's fc

iTrader: (1)

did you check your battery ground to the engine. i had the same issue and it was a loose ground. the one that on near the oil filter.

g14novak

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Yeah, it was origionally off, I forgot to hook it up when I put the new engine back in. I bolted it to the top driver side corner engine-tranny bolt. It cranks full speed now, it just wasn't getting fuel. I just bypassed that with a switch though. I think it makes my car feel more like a race car anyway.