well i had the day off so i did the tb mod ( http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/TBM/tbm.html ) and all i can say is wow, there is alot inside the tb that you can remove to clean up, i ported and polished mine it its entirety i removed all the extra little bs and so far it droped my idle from 2k to 1500 rpms and both those settings are with the tps adjusted correctly, i have yet to take it for a drive but i can tell just free reving the difference its making, it might be all me but def think its worth the time and effort. now if i can just figure out out to remove the bac i think i will be happy, im trying to free up space in the engine bay and wire tuck as i go along, but im still learning about the rotary and i am impressed daily

 

Why is your call idling at 2k anyway? even at 1500? my extended port will happily sit at 1200rpm, i could even make it lower if i wanted to.
You might want to look at your idle rich/lean adjustment valve, its over near the MAP sensor on the passenger side strut tower

 

+1 on the idle? Mine used to idle that high, until I fixed all the vacuum leaks (including the seal between the TB and TB elbow). Just something to think about.

And please reconsider removing the BAC. It's removal doesn't net any power, the thing doesn't take up much space, it's not heavy, etc. The only thing you get by removing it is a very unstable idle for the first 5-10 minutes and 2 coolant nipples that are a bitch to cap off.

 

alright that makes sense to me, i wont remove the bac then lol, i will have to try that adjustment out and check out my lines, i thought they just idled high, thanks for the input

 

ya why so high a idle? and why would you want to remove the BAC, i see no logic.
can you remove the coolant passage from the bac to prevent the small amount of air passing through from heating up as much, like part of the TB mod.

 

no change with the rich/lean screw i sprayed a bunch of the vac lines with brake clean and nothing so idk why it idles high it always has since i bought the car 3 weeks ago

 

umm, ok, if i remember right, on the firewall side of the TB is an idle adjustment screw? it bascailly increases the openness of the TB plates, also see what its doing with the throttle cable off, as it might be adjusted to tightly and causing it to have the throttle open a little.

 

when the idle falls down the car catches it and makes it idle at 1500 it will bounce around a little but it will hold it at 1500 rpms

 

let it fall and bounce around with no extra throttle ( ie with the cable off) and then re adjust your tps

 

and with the tb mod, you did remove the fast idle system?

 

yes i did, when i start it it holds at 2500 then drops to 1k the car picks itself up and bumps around 1500 until it finds it and then holds steady, it was doing this last night thats why i did the tb mod today, i adjusted the tps last night to get it under 2k and now this problem continues, the fuel/air idle mix doesnt do anything either and i turned the crap out of the screw, there is a green plug thats close to the connection of the mix screw with female ends thats not connected to anything either

 

thats the fuel pump prime plug, you can jumper it to get your fuel pump to turn on without cranking
or maybe its the diagnostics plug, i cant remember.search - surging/pulsing idle

 

well i tried to plug all the lines on the bac no luck, i sprayed the injectors no luck although when i disconnect the tps it does rev up, i took off the throttle cable no change, it will hesitate under load to if im under 2k it will "chug" the car as it tries to maintain 1500 rpms

 

ok, so were back to vacuum leaks, its a pain in the ****, but keep looking, go by some hylomar or a nice non hardening gasket sealant and redo the TB to mani and the elbow as well.

 

will do thanks..any other ideas r welcome

 

That BAC valve might be malfunctioning. If it is then it will be allowing more air into the inlet and bypassing the throttle plates which wil cause a higher idle. mines removed, I ran a bit of hose from where it exits the block and reconected it into the water pump housing, completly bypassing the BAC and also disconected the plug and removed the valve and put a block off plate on it. You could try testing the resistance of the BAC to see if its working properly. Serach BAC and you should find the specs to test it to

 

i will try this aswell thanks

 

Is there gasket between tb and uim and from tb and elbow??

 

there is a gasket its thick and black, and on the intake side of the tb and elbow there is a o ring type of thing i guess u could call it

 

gasget goo all that **** up bro. seal everything and anything