just did compression test and
#1
my fc broke
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just did compression test and
well the results are. the back housing has60 to 55 on all sides of the rotors. and the front has aboug 60 to 55 all the way around. what i did was just pull the EGI fuse and cranked it. dont know if it makes a diference on how u do it. but i think its time to start saving for a rebuild.
#2
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was your battery strong? also did you make sure the gas pedal was down to the floor? was the motor warm or cold? try putting in a tad of ATF see if that raises compressio a little bit if it does... then i would say its safe for a rebuild
also how many miles on the motor?
also how many miles on the motor?
#3
Engine, Not Motor
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Don't put ATF or oil into the chamber. It could artificially raise compression.
Make sure you have a well charged battery, and that the throttle was all the way open.
Also, using a regular compression tester is not horribly accurate. I'd reccommend a real Mazda test before you do something expensive.
Make sure you have a well charged battery, and that the throttle was all the way open.
Also, using a regular compression tester is not horribly accurate. I'd reccommend a real Mazda test before you do something expensive.
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yea i would .... on my car with a blown motor with throttle closed i got 10's on the front and 65's in the rear
tried it agian with the pedel floored and i got 40's in the fronts and mid 90's on the rear... still need a rebuild
tried it agian with the pedel floored and i got 40's in the fronts and mid 90's on the rear... still need a rebuild
#7
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i was thinking if the motor sealed better with ATF that would be a sign of low compression say if it went from like ... 60 to 110 with ATF in it i think that would a sign of weak seals
but if it went from like 95 to 110 then i would assume the seals are good.... i dunno thats how piston motors do it i dunno if you can apply that to a rotary tho
but if it went from like 95 to 110 then i would assume the seals are good.... i dunno thats how piston motors do it i dunno if you can apply that to a rotary tho
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okay did you do it to haynes manual specs? it works best with the UIM off but sticking the throttle open should help, did you unplug the Crank angle sensor?
#13
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well now would be a good time to save for an overhaul... better to rebuild it before it blows... it sucks to chew an apex seal... makes the rebuild that much more expensive
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