Piranha

Hey folks, I have an 88 TII with an 89 Jspec engine in it. I built the code checker from fc3s.org, since I don't have a check engine light. I plugged it in, and I get the 3 seconds of the LEDs lit when I turn the key to on, but I don't get any flashes. can I check codes this way? Or am I basically screwed? I know I should be getting at least one code from my water coolant sensor; the wires busted on that one.

Thanks!

RETed

Error code checking is dependent on the ECU, not the engine type itself.&nbsp It should work as any other Zenki ECU code check...


-Ted

Piranha

Thanks, how do I check what ECU I have? And what is a "Zenki" ECU code check?

NZConvertible

Damn, now you've got me worried! I have the code checker mounted in my idiot light cluster and haven’t had any codes yet, but I’ve never tried to simulate one. It does light up at start-up though. I assumed the system would all be the same for JDM cars; I hope someone can confirm!

RETed

http://home.rmci.net/panther/ecu_codes.htm

"Zenki" = 1986-1988 FC models
You mention 1988, so yours is a Zenki FC3S.



-Ted

Piranha

Ah, thanks. Yes, I built a code checker, but I don't get codes. Since I have an 89+ engine, doesn't that mean it has an 89+ ECU? Would my ECU send the signals to the check engine light that doesn't exist, or to the plug that I have?

Scott 89t2

we have no idea what ecu you have. you'd have to check. but chances are it's the 88 one. I wouldn't even bother checking for codes on the 86-88 ones. they never work anyways.

Piranha

yeah, it wasn't working Okay... I figured I had an 89 or newer ECU because I run 7 PSI of boost. If I had an older one it wouldn't boost that much would it?

turboGXL

OK, pull up your carpet and look at the ECU. That will tell you what year/model you have. Second, I have a j-spec TURBO ECU for a series 5 89-91, N374. I'm checking my codes tomorrow. I'm pretty sure they are going to be the same as the US spec ones, but i'll let you know.

RETed

I doubt it.&nbsp Swapping in a Kouki harness and ECU is a royal pain in the ***.&nbsp It's easy to check the ECU part number by lifting the carpet in the passenger footwell area and taking off the metal cover.

Check the ECU type first...I bet it's an N332 or N333.



-Ted

RETed

Is your car stock?&nbsp Or do you have exhaust and intake mods?&nbsp Boost levels only count when the car is DEAD STOCK.&nbsp Otherwise, intake and exhaust mods will cause boost levels to rise.


-Ted

Piranha

Thanks for helping guys. I just checked it, it is an N333. What does that mean?

turboGXL

N333 means its a US spec series 4 turbo ECU

RETed

N333 is a U.S.-spec Turbo II ECU.


-Ted

Piranha

Alright, so the code check thing SHOULD work. Why does my ECU allow my engine to be boosted more? Isn't the cutoff for the series 4s lower than 7 PSI?

RETed

Boost is not controlled by the ECU - keep that in mind...
The whole wastegate system is purely mechanical, and the wastegate orifice is way too small.&nbsp You start opening the exhaust and intake, and this overruns the wastegate.


-Ted

NZConvertible

There’s an ECU-controlled fuel cut at 8.6psi boost, but the actual boost control is purely mechanical like Ted said.

Piranha

Yes, but doesn't the ECU cut out the boost at a certain point? I thought it got that data from the boost sensor?

Piranha

Okay, I understand. I thought that the Fuel cut (thats what I was referring to) occured with less PSI in the series 4s. I think I know a good amount for a newbie on how this stuff works, and I've followed the lines for the wastegate n such. Thanks for all the good info, I really appreciate it.