John V's STS GTUs build thread
12-30-09, 05:16 PM
#78
Cliff notes: It lives!
Long version - it took a bit of work.
I did a quick check of the ignition and fuel injection by removing the CAS and spinning it with the key in the "on" position. All the plugs fired and all the injectors squirted. Okay, time to stab the CAS.
One thing of note (probably obvious), the tiny Braille battery wasn't up to cranking the car especially after sitting in my garage for a month. Second, it was ESPECIALLY not up to the task of cranking the car with the motor full of assembly lube at 20 degrees F, as it was in the garage this morning.
Also: I used WAY too much assembly lube. Or at least it was enough to seriously foul the plugs. I had to pull them and clean them a couple times. I also learned a lesson with the CAS. It is way better to stab the CAS with the motor between the yellow and red marks, not on the yellow like the manual states. I ended up about a tooth off which took me a half hour to diagnose.
Once the CAS was stabbed properly and the battery was jumped with our Mazdaspeed, it fired up after a couple of cranks. And then promptly fried the firewall to trans ground wire, because in my battery relocation I neglected to connect a heavy gauge ground wire between the transmission and the chassis, which meant all the starter current was flowing through that tiny 14 gauge ground wire. With a proper 4-ga wire connecting the firewall to the trans, cranking speed was up and everything worked as expected. No oil in the plug holes needed.
In case any of you were wondering how loud an NA is with nothing but a header - it is about 100x louder than anything you've ever heard before. I had some serious earplugs in, and when it fired I was shocked (shocked). **** fell off my shelving units, the tools that were living under the car were blown backwards to the rear wall of the garage and our neighbor's car alarm (100' from my house) went off.
Anyway, that's it for tonight. Next stop: Suspension and brakes!
Long version - it took a bit of work.
I did a quick check of the ignition and fuel injection by removing the CAS and spinning it with the key in the "on" position. All the plugs fired and all the injectors squirted. Okay, time to stab the CAS.
One thing of note (probably obvious), the tiny Braille battery wasn't up to cranking the car especially after sitting in my garage for a month. Second, it was ESPECIALLY not up to the task of cranking the car with the motor full of assembly lube at 20 degrees F, as it was in the garage this morning.
Also: I used WAY too much assembly lube. Or at least it was enough to seriously foul the plugs. I had to pull them and clean them a couple times. I also learned a lesson with the CAS. It is way better to stab the CAS with the motor between the yellow and red marks, not on the yellow like the manual states. I ended up about a tooth off which took me a half hour to diagnose.
Once the CAS was stabbed properly and the battery was jumped with our Mazdaspeed, it fired up after a couple of cranks. And then promptly fried the firewall to trans ground wire, because in my battery relocation I neglected to connect a heavy gauge ground wire between the transmission and the chassis, which meant all the starter current was flowing through that tiny 14 gauge ground wire. With a proper 4-ga wire connecting the firewall to the trans, cranking speed was up and everything worked as expected. No oil in the plug holes needed.
In case any of you were wondering how loud an NA is with nothing but a header - it is about 100x louder than anything you've ever heard before. I had some serious earplugs in, and when it fired I was shocked (shocked). **** fell off my shelving units, the tools that were living under the car were blown backwards to the rear wall of the garage and our neighbor's car alarm (100' from my house) went off.
Anyway, that's it for tonight. Next stop: Suspension and brakes!
12-30-09, 05:32 PM
#79
In case any of you were wondering how loud an NA is with nothing but a header - it is about 100x louder than anything you've ever heard before. I had some serious earplugs in, and when it fired I was shocked (shocked). **** fell off my shelving units, the tools that were living under the car were blown backwards to the rear wall of the garage and our neighbor's car alarm (100' from my house) went off.
. I'm genuinely shocked that the police never showed up at my house when I would routinely start up my n/a in the garage with just an exhaust manifold before it was roadworthy 
.Congrats on getting it started, can't wait to see what next. Your build is very inspirational, major props for doing everything right and not cutting corners. Keep it up
.
12-30-09, 05:55 PM
#80
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In case any of you were wondering how loud an NA is with nothing but a header - it is about 100x louder than anything you've ever heard before. I had some serious earplugs in, and when it fired I was shocked (shocked). **** fell off my shelving units, the tools that were living under the car were blown backwards to the rear wall of the garage and our neighbor's car alarm (100' from my house) went off.
Anyway, that's it for tonight. Next stop: Suspension and brakes!
Anyway, that's it for tonight. Next stop: Suspension and brakes!
12-31-09, 08:55 AM
#82
Ban Peak
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Cliff notes: It lives!
Long version - it took a bit of work.
I did a quick check of the ignition and fuel injection by removing the CAS and spinning it with the key in the "on" position. All the plugs fired and all the injectors squirted. Okay, time to stab the CAS.
One thing of note (probably obvious), the tiny Braille battery wasn't up to cranking the car especially after sitting in my garage for a month. Second, it was ESPECIALLY not up to the task of cranking the car with the motor full of assembly lube at 20 degrees F, as it was in the garage this morning.
Also: I used WAY too much assembly lube. Or at least it was enough to seriously foul the plugs. I had to pull them and clean them a couple times. I also learned a lesson with the CAS. It is way better to stab the CAS with the motor between the yellow and red marks, not on the yellow like the manual states. I ended up about a tooth off which took me a half hour to diagnose.
Once the CAS was stabbed properly and the battery was jumped with our Mazdaspeed, it fired up after a couple of cranks. And then promptly fried the firewall to trans ground wire, because in my battery relocation I neglected to connect a heavy gauge ground wire between the transmission and the chassis, which meant all the starter current was flowing through that tiny 14 gauge ground wire. With a proper 4-ga wire connecting the firewall to the trans, cranking speed was up and everything worked as expected. No oil in the plug holes needed.
In case any of you were wondering how loud an NA is with nothing but a header - it is about 100x louder than anything you've ever heard before. I had some serious earplugs in, and when it fired I was shocked (shocked). **** fell off my shelving units, the tools that were living under the car were blown backwards to the rear wall of the garage and our neighbor's car alarm (100' from my house) went off.
Anyway, that's it for tonight. Next stop: Suspension and brakes!
Long version - it took a bit of work.
I did a quick check of the ignition and fuel injection by removing the CAS and spinning it with the key in the "on" position. All the plugs fired and all the injectors squirted. Okay, time to stab the CAS.
One thing of note (probably obvious), the tiny Braille battery wasn't up to cranking the car especially after sitting in my garage for a month. Second, it was ESPECIALLY not up to the task of cranking the car with the motor full of assembly lube at 20 degrees F, as it was in the garage this morning.
Also: I used WAY too much assembly lube. Or at least it was enough to seriously foul the plugs. I had to pull them and clean them a couple times. I also learned a lesson with the CAS. It is way better to stab the CAS with the motor between the yellow and red marks, not on the yellow like the manual states. I ended up about a tooth off which took me a half hour to diagnose.
Once the CAS was stabbed properly and the battery was jumped with our Mazdaspeed, it fired up after a couple of cranks. And then promptly fried the firewall to trans ground wire, because in my battery relocation I neglected to connect a heavy gauge ground wire between the transmission and the chassis, which meant all the starter current was flowing through that tiny 14 gauge ground wire. With a proper 4-ga wire connecting the firewall to the trans, cranking speed was up and everything worked as expected. No oil in the plug holes needed.
In case any of you were wondering how loud an NA is with nothing but a header - it is about 100x louder than anything you've ever heard before. I had some serious earplugs in, and when it fired I was shocked (shocked). **** fell off my shelving units, the tools that were living under the car were blown backwards to the rear wall of the garage and our neighbor's car alarm (100' from my house) went off.
Anyway, that's it for tonight. Next stop: Suspension and brakes!
. The N/A IS loud open manifold/header. My car is almost unbearable right now, to the point wehere I'm going to change the catback. I threw a spare presilncer in instead of the cat when I did my Trans and it made the car sound crazy. I really want to run the car on a dyno and see the differense between an open exhaust(Presilencer and unrestrictive catback) and an exhaust w/ a cat and more restrictive catback. I'm just waiting for it to warm up a bit before i put my other catback on. I'm not lucky like some of you guys, no garage.
Whats the Suspension plan?
12-31-09, 09:09 AM
#83
Rotary Enthusiast
The grounding mishap is just one of those things. You found the problem and fixed it with no harm done. Now if you would have done something epic like catch the car on fire and burn the house down, the forum would have a field day poking fun at you.
12-31-09, 09:17 AM
#84
Incidentally, I marked the front pulley with a true TDC mark when the motor was apart, and it shows the yellow mark (5 degrees ATDC) as being 10 degrees ATDC and the red as 20 degrees ATDC. I'm pretty confident in my measurement, so the factory mark is a little off.
The N/A IS loud open manifold/header. My car is almost unbearable right now, to the point wehere I'm going to change the catback. I threw a spare presilncer in instead of the cat when I did my Trans and it made the car sound crazy. I really want to run the car on a dyno and see the differense between an open exhaust(Presilencer and unrestrictive catback) and an exhaust w/ a cat and more restrictive catback. I'm just waiting for it to warm up a bit before i put my other catback on. I'm not lucky like some of you guys, no garage.
Whats the Suspension plan?
Whats the Suspension plan?
12-31-09, 10:13 AM
#85
I did use the light when the car was cranking but if I recall correctly the ECU retards the timing some during cranking? L1 and T1 were firing at exactly the same time, and
Incidentally, I marked the front pulley with a true TDC mark when the motor was apart, and it shows the yellow mark (5 degrees ATDC) as being 10 degrees ATDC and the red as 20 degrees ATDC. I'm pretty confident in my measurement, so the factory mark is a little off.
Incidentally, I marked the front pulley with a true TDC mark when the motor was apart, and it shows the yellow mark (5 degrees ATDC) as being 10 degrees ATDC and the red as 20 degrees ATDC. I'm pretty confident in my measurement, so the factory mark is a little off.
I'm not surprised that the timing marks are off, I did some research when I was setting my timing and it seems a lot of people have found that their stock lines aren't right. Which is why I have a racing beat main pulley sitting in my closet... I need to install that
12-31-09, 10:55 AM
#88
Instead of a Braille Battery, you could have gone with a Deka Powersports battery for much less coin. Brailles are just re-badged and overpriced Deka's.
http://www.planet-9.com/cayman-boxst...ery-track.html
Great build btw, very meticulous and detailed.
http://www.planet-9.com/cayman-boxst...ery-track.html
Great build btw, very meticulous and detailed.
12-31-09, 12:27 PM
#89
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i think i've done it too...
in the FSM, it says the timing is 5BTDC L&T whist cranking. there is a pin on the ecu that gets power when the key is in start, so it does know you are cranking
in the FSM, it says the timing is 5BTDC L&T whist cranking. there is a pin on the ecu that gets power when the key is in start, so it does know you are cranking
12-31-09, 12:52 PM
#90
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hahaha when i installed my Rb longtube header i had to drive my car to a shop to get the exhaust welded up, I drove my car on the street with an open header... never again But I did rip it to about 7k in second i think it sounded like sex but couldn't tell cause my ears were bleeding lol
01-04-10, 05:45 PM
#91
To steal a phrase from a buddy... "Some goodies arrived today."
Ground Control hooked me up with a set of their single adjustable Koni based coilovers. They gave me a great deal on them and shipped them out super fast. Fast enough that I still haven't gotten the parts I need from Mazdacomp to finish up the front and rear hubs. Oh well. I threw them on the scale and the rears are a pound lighter than the stock stuff. The fronts are each four pounds lighter. Not much, but every bit helps.
While I was waiting on parts, I had some spare time so I cleaned up the front calipers and shot them with four coats of red high temp paint after rebiulding them with new seals and boots. Useless? Yes. But they needed to be cleaned anyway so I figured, "Why not?"
And Mazdatrix sent me a set of DOT legal stainless brake lines. Normally I'm not a huge fan of these as a standalone upgrade, but the stock lines were 20 years old and it seemed like a worthwhile extra expenditure.
Ground Control hooked me up with a set of their single adjustable Koni based coilovers. They gave me a great deal on them and shipped them out super fast. Fast enough that I still haven't gotten the parts I need from Mazdacomp to finish up the front and rear hubs. Oh well. I threw them on the scale and the rears are a pound lighter than the stock stuff. The fronts are each four pounds lighter. Not much, but every bit helps.
While I was waiting on parts, I had some spare time so I cleaned up the front calipers and shot them with four coats of red high temp paint after rebiulding them with new seals and boots. Useless? Yes. But they needed to be cleaned anyway so I figured, "Why not?"
And Mazdatrix sent me a set of DOT legal stainless brake lines. Normally I'm not a huge fan of these as a standalone upgrade, but the stock lines were 20 years old and it seemed like a worthwhile extra expenditure.
01-06-10, 10:21 PM
#95
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Following this 100%, this is exactly what I'm looking to do with my 7, Except, I want to ditch the 13BT I have and go with a 13B N/A, and do this. But first I must accumulate around $5,000 to start facilitating what I want to do.
01-07-10, 06:59 AM
#96
Just for a point of reference, there are a bunch of things I would do differently if it were legal for my class of competition. Just keep in mind that I was limited by my ruleset - there are improvements that could be made which wouldn't affect streetability.
01-07-10, 12:11 PM
#100
Initial plan was to run 15x7.5's and 225/45/15 shaved Hankook RS-3 in the dry with 225/45/15 Toyo R1Rs in the wet. Mostly because they are the shortest 225s that will be competitive.
New thought is 16x7.5s so I can run the toyo, hankook, dunlop, bridgestone, yoko or falken. Lots more options, just messes with my gearing a bit.
New thought is 16x7.5s so I can run the toyo, hankook, dunlop, bridgestone, yoko or falken. Lots more options, just messes with my gearing a bit.