John V's STS GTUs build thread
12-17-09, 12:58 PM
#53
STS rules state the seats have to weigh 25lbs minimum. I figure that's a good excuse to have a comfy seat that reclines so I can drive it on the street now and then. The A4 weighs about 23 lbs, and the sparco brackets are pretty light so it'll be close to the minimum weight.
The VIN on this car is crossed out as well and restamped to sell what was a '89 GTUs as a '90.
The VIN on this car is crossed out as well and restamped to sell what was a '89 GTUs as a '90.
the hole in the front cover is fine, they machine out the oil pan bolts all the way through.
12-23-09, 07:38 AM
#57
No new pics doesn't mean no new work. I picked up a new toy this weekend that has made all the suspension rebuild a ton easier.
The car needs all new wheel bearings on top of the DTSS eliminator bushings and new rear control arm bushings (stock rubber). Figured this would pay for itself quickly.
Thanks to TeamRX8 I have started laying the groundwork for a durable and quiet (enough) exhaust system. It isn't going to be cheap but then again, none of this build has been cheap yet.
The car needs all new wheel bearings on top of the DTSS eliminator bushings and new rear control arm bushings (stock rubber). Figured this would pay for itself quickly.
Thanks to TeamRX8 I have started laying the groundwork for a durable and quiet (enough) exhaust system. It isn't going to be cheap but then again, none of this build has been cheap yet.
12-25-09, 05:58 PM
#58
Playing with my new toy. The car needs wheel bearings all around, or at least they have more play than I'd like. Might as well do it while everything is disassembled.
I'm getting lazier in my cleaning. My rear hubs are still dirty but clean enough for something that's just going to be covered in grime after the first couple events anyway. If Mazdacomp would get off their butts and send me my new rear bearings I could get these back in the car. I went with MMR's rear DTSS eliminator bushings and pressed those in already.
MMR also hooked me up with some new UHMW subframe bushings. the subframe didn't take too much cleaning to look decent.
I'm going with their individual camber adjusters. Normally pillowballs are illegal in STS, but the stock linkage is a pillowball so it's okay here. I'll be using these with new stock rubber control arm bushings. The bushings that were in the control arms looked and felt alright, but they're cheap so I decided to replace them.
More pics soon...
I'm getting lazier in my cleaning. My rear hubs are still dirty but clean enough for something that's just going to be covered in grime after the first couple events anyway. If Mazdacomp would get off their butts and send me my new rear bearings I could get these back in the car. I went with MMR's rear DTSS eliminator bushings and pressed those in already.
MMR also hooked me up with some new UHMW subframe bushings. the subframe didn't take too much cleaning to look decent.
I'm going with their individual camber adjusters. Normally pillowballs are illegal in STS, but the stock linkage is a pillowball so it's okay here. I'll be using these with new stock rubber control arm bushings. The bushings that were in the control arms looked and felt alright, but they're cheap so I decided to replace them.
More pics soon...
12-25-09, 09:07 PM
#60
Playing with my new toy. The car needs wheel bearings all around, or at least they have more play than I'd like. Might as well do it while everything is disassembled.
I'm getting lazier in my cleaning. My rear hubs are still dirty but clean enough for something that's just going to be covered in grime after the first couple events anyway. If Mazdacomp would get off their butts and send me my new rear bearings I could get these back in the car. I went with MMR's rear DTSS eliminator bushings and pressed those in already.
MMR also hooked me up with some new UHMW subframe bushings. the subframe didn't take too much cleaning to look decent.
I'm going with their individual camber adjusters. Normally pillowballs are illegal in STS, but the stock linkage is a pillowball so it's okay here. I'll be using these with new stock rubber control arm bushings. The bushings that were in the control arms looked and felt alright, but they're cheap so I decided to replace them.
More pics soon...
I'm getting lazier in my cleaning. My rear hubs are still dirty but clean enough for something that's just going to be covered in grime after the first couple events anyway. If Mazdacomp would get off their butts and send me my new rear bearings I could get these back in the car. I went with MMR's rear DTSS eliminator bushings and pressed those in already.
MMR also hooked me up with some new UHMW subframe bushings. the subframe didn't take too much cleaning to look decent.
I'm going with their individual camber adjusters. Normally pillowballs are illegal in STS, but the stock linkage is a pillowball so it's okay here. I'll be using these with new stock rubber control arm bushings. The bushings that were in the control arms looked and felt alright, but they're cheap so I decided to replace them.
More pics soon...
So.... I'm just going to drop my car off at your house
I need to do my bushings and DTSS Eliminators too. That press looks pretty sweet 
12-25-09, 11:02 PM
#61
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Hey, for what it's worth on the seats, the ST* rule on weight is 25lbs for the seat + everything that connects it to the car: http://cms.scca.com/documents/Solo_R...Solo_Rules.pdf
This opens up pretty much all of the fixed back seats as well, since most mounting rails are ~12lbs and the seats are 13-17lbs depending on who makes them. Reclining seats are generally 26lbs or more before the 12+lbs of mounting brackets. I've heard from a few people though that it's fine to weld on some extra weights to the bracket to meet the minimum weights
Reading through the STS rules, it looks like you can't use highflow cats, which is a bummer, but you may have more flexibility than you think:
D. Exhaust manifolds and headers may be replaced with alternate
units which are emissions-legal. Relocation of the oxygen
sensor on the header is permitted. Alternate oxygen sensors,
including heated types, are permitted. This allowance does not
permit relocation of the catalytic converter (see 13.10.E).
Exhaust heat shields may be modified the minimum amount
necessary to accommodate allowed alternate exhaust
components.
E. Catalytic Converters
ST, STS:
Catalytic converters may be replaced by aftermarket units. Replacements
must:
This thread has been a great read though. I've been very seriously considering picking up a <$1k GXL or GTU (if I get lucky) and tinkering with it like crazy and this has reaffirmed my belief that it would be a fun and worthwhile project. Keep updating for those of us playing (and pricing 
) from home!
Originally Posted by Solo Rules Section 14.2 Item B
B. The driver and front passenger seats may be replaced, with the
following restrictions: The seating surface must be fully
upholstered. The top of the seat, or an attached headrest, may
not be below the center of the driver’s head. The seat, including
mounting hardware, must weigh at least 25 pounds and must be
attached using the OE body mounting holes/studs. Additional
mounting points may be added.
following restrictions: The seating surface must be fully
upholstered. The top of the seat, or an attached headrest, may
not be below the center of the driver’s head. The seat, including
mounting hardware, must weigh at least 25 pounds and must be
attached using the OE body mounting holes/studs. Additional
mounting points may be added.
Reading through the STS rules, it looks like you can't use highflow cats, which is a bummer, but you may have more flexibility than you think:
Originally Posted by Solo Rules Section 14.10
D. Exhaust manifolds and headers may be replaced with alternate
units which are emissions-legal. Relocation of the oxygen
sensor on the header is permitted. Alternate oxygen sensors,
including heated types, are permitted. This allowance does not
permit relocation of the catalytic converter (see 13.10.E).
Exhaust heat shields may be modified the minimum amount
necessary to accommodate allowed alternate exhaust
components.
E. Catalytic Converters
ST, STS:
Catalytic converters may be replaced by aftermarket units. Replacements
must:
1) Be certified for use in that vehicle application by the manufacturer
or reconditioner,
or reconditioner,
2) Bear correct EPA-mandated labeling,
3) Be of the OE quantity and type (i.e. oxidation, three-way, etc.)
and
and
4) Be used in the same location(s) as the OE converter(s).
This does allow for high performance
This does allow for high performance
) from home!
Last edited by Anijo; 12-25-09 at 11:17 PM.
12-26-09, 07:00 AM
#62
Reading through the STS rules, it looks like you can't use highflow cats, which is a bummer, but you may have more flexibility than you think:
The old STS cat rule was that the cats had to be stock. No longer.
12-27-09, 12:31 AM
#63
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Cool about the highflow cats... when it was in the PDF the last little bit of that line was on the next page and I must never have read it
12-27-09, 10:27 AM
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12-28-09, 10:26 AM
#68
maybe I'll order some new wheel bearings too so I can do some preventative maintenance.
12-28-09, 11:14 AM
#69
Alright... quick update. My new rear control arm bushings came in, so I pressed those in and went to re-install the subframe and diff. The diff got new competition bushings from Mazdacomp (not too exciting, didn't take any pics of those) and is back in the car. The subframe went in without too much of a fight, of course the control arms had to be re-attached first.
New brake rotors? No, shockingly... I measured them and they were almost new in terms of thickness! Nice surprise. They were a bit glazed, and there was a bit of surface rust on the hats, so I hit them with some 80 grit paper on a disc spun by my electric drill, shot them with a coat of high temp primer and a few coats of high temp paint. Why bother? Because I hate rusty discs and the friction surface needed a nice cross-hatch to bed in the new brake pads. Plus, it was quick and easy.
Biggest news is that the engine is in! Well, actually it's been in for about a week now, but it's closer to being able to start and run than it had been. I'm only missing one o-ring (for the filler neck... I knew I shouldn't have removed that) and I can probably track one down here somewhere, I just can't find my o-ring box. Anyway, it sure looks a lot nicer than the old hulk that came out of here a couple of months ago. Has it been that long?
I plugged in the battery and bumped the starter and sure enough, everything electrical is happy and functional. As tempting as it would be to fire the motor once I get that o-ring and fill it with coolant, I'll probably wait. The car isn't going to be driving anywhere for at least another few weeks, and there's no sense burning off that nice gooey assembly lube just to have the car sit. The suspense *is* killing me though.
Now... if that box from Ground Control would just hurry up and get here...
New brake rotors? No, shockingly... I measured them and they were almost new in terms of thickness! Nice surprise. They were a bit glazed, and there was a bit of surface rust on the hats, so I hit them with some 80 grit paper on a disc spun by my electric drill, shot them with a coat of high temp primer and a few coats of high temp paint. Why bother? Because I hate rusty discs and the friction surface needed a nice cross-hatch to bed in the new brake pads. Plus, it was quick and easy.
Biggest news is that the engine is in! Well, actually it's been in for about a week now, but it's closer to being able to start and run than it had been. I'm only missing one o-ring (for the filler neck... I knew I shouldn't have removed that) and I can probably track one down here somewhere, I just can't find my o-ring box. Anyway, it sure looks a lot nicer than the old hulk that came out of here a couple of months ago. Has it been that long?
I plugged in the battery and bumped the starter and sure enough, everything electrical is happy and functional. As tempting as it would be to fire the motor once I get that o-ring and fill it with coolant, I'll probably wait. The car isn't going to be driving anywhere for at least another few weeks, and there's no sense burning off that nice gooey assembly lube just to have the car sit. The suspense *is* killing me though.
Now... if that box from Ground Control would just hurry up and get here...
12-29-09, 11:31 AM
#71
Rotary Enthusiast
Personally I wouldn't wait to start the motor. Just in case you find something wrong, you'd want to have enough time to fix it.
I once had a side seal get stuck on a fresh rebuild. (It was probably my fault for keeping the side seal-to-corner seal gap as close to the minimum as possible.) Long story short, the seal snapped and the engine had to be pulled again.
I know you're doing a great job with this build, but I'd hate to see something unforeseen mess up your schedule. Plus, hearing the motor run will do wonders for project enthusiasm! LOL!
-Jeff
I once had a side seal get stuck on a fresh rebuild. (It was probably my fault for keeping the side seal-to-corner seal gap as close to the minimum as possible.) Long story short, the seal snapped and the engine had to be pulled again.
I know you're doing a great job with this build, but I'd hate to see something unforeseen mess up your schedule. Plus, hearing the motor run will do wonders for project enthusiasm! LOL!
-Jeff
12-29-09, 03:25 PM
#73
Does it seem like I'm sort on project enthusiasm??
I may indeed start it. I found my o-ring box and managed to find a "close enough" fit at least for now. Of course, that was after I pulled all the front suspension parts off, so the car is sitting on four jackstands in my garage.
Only thing is, the exhaust is nothing more than an RB street header. That's it. Once the suspension is on the car I'll be trailering it down to Piper to get the exhaust work done. It's sure to stink up my garage and **** off my very, very tolerant neighbors if I fire up a 1308cc weed whacker in my garage. But fun.... yes, it would be very fun.
Hmmm... decisions, decisions...
I may indeed start it. I found my o-ring box and managed to find a "close enough" fit at least for now. Of course, that was after I pulled all the front suspension parts off, so the car is sitting on four jackstands in my garage.
Only thing is, the exhaust is nothing more than an RB street header. That's it. Once the suspension is on the car I'll be trailering it down to Piper to get the exhaust work done. It's sure to stink up my garage and **** off my very, very tolerant neighbors if I fire up a 1308cc weed whacker in my garage. But fun.... yes, it would be very fun.
Hmmm... decisions, decisions...
12-30-09, 12:08 AM
#75
d
only thing is, the exhaust is nothing more than an rb street header. That's it. Once the suspension is on the car i'll be trailering it down to piper to get the exhaust work done. It's sure to stink up my garage and **** off my very, very tolerant neighbors if i fire up a 1308cc weed whacker in my garage. But fun.... Yes, it would be very fun.
Hmmm... Decisions, decisions...
only thing is, the exhaust is nothing more than an rb street header. That's it. Once the suspension is on the car i'll be trailering it down to piper to get the exhaust work done. It's sure to stink up my garage and **** off my very, very tolerant neighbors if i fire up a 1308cc weed whacker in my garage. But fun.... Yes, it would be very fun.
Hmmm... Decisions, decisions...