Never said I swapped the TPS, I said I swapped the connector. The TPS was adjusted after this, and worked fine after that.

The clunking is the rear camber link, I never said anything else. I gave an example to when you'd hear the sound, and the jerking made me certain that it was the link, as you don't get that continuous clunking from anything else like holes in the road or something.
Last time they were checked the car was not running right, that's why I adjusted them, logically. And I haven't been close to the TPS', or had brake cleaner on them.

 

So the TPS was adjusted after swapping the plug and worked fine. Was this before or after the engine started jerking?

Has the TPS been checked/adjusted since you've been having the jerking issue?

Brake cleaner isn't the only thing in the world that will cause a TPS to crap itself, general wear and tear on a 20+ year old sensor will do that too.



What's clunking have to do with this and why are we arguing about it???

 

I just re-read this thread.

Why are you refusing to check/adjust your TPS? Your connector was bad, you fixed that. Now your idle is bad ... why wouldn't you suspect the rest of the TPS failed?

You gain nothing by disconnecting your BAC. Reconnect it.

If you're refusing standard troubleshooting procedures, that take 5 minutes each, why even make the thread?

 

The TPS has not been touched at all since I got the jerking issue, but when does the TPS misadjust so badly in just a day or two?

Also, my idle got nothing to do with the TPS, this is the RPMs jumping when the car is in gear between 1.5k and 2k rpms.

I gain nothing from disconnecting the BAC? I am not gaining anything by connecting it either, except a smoother idle. And since my BAC is for a N/A, it is fiddly enough to have it there, connecting it is hell.

So, say this, think outside the box, not TPS. Just try it. Let's say I tested it, and it was well within the ohm ranges. What else can cause the car acting like this?

 

Bad grounds.

Vacuum leaks.

A poorly routed fuel system, pulsation dampener in the wrong place, running two fuel pressure regulators, fuel and or vacuum leak(s) from the fuel injectors, dirty fuel sock and fuel filter...

A throttle body that's been messed with a bit too much.

MAP or boost sensor issue.

Atmospheric pressure sensor issue.

AFM issue.

TPS issue.

^ 5V reference issue in the ECU.

Water thermo sensor issue.

Horrible timing issue.

A combination of the above.




* Start ruling those out.

 

When they're over 20 years old, **** just breaks.