2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

JDM 13BT Swap...STARTED!!!

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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 10:07 PM
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JDM 13BT Swap...STARTED!!!

Finally... my JDM 13BT swap started. I have started it three times now. Possibly one small coolant leak, but nothing I can't handle. The only thing is... I have to jump it with another car every time. I have tested my battery with my multimeter (12.43V) and the battery gauge in the car shows 12V. I was thinking the problem could possibly be the ignition... or maybe timing? maybe both. Pretty much my question is... why does my car need to be jumped every time I start it?
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 10:10 PM
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IS there something wrong with the starter not getting enough voltage, my 7 used to do the something similar until I grounded the starter and then it would work fine, now I got a 2 gauge wire from the battery to the starter.
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 11:22 PM
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The starter is just fine... I am sure. The engine just needs that extra "kick" every time.
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 11:27 PM
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did it read 12.4 when the car started? cuz it should be 14 v. its ur starter
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 11:35 PM
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With the jumper cables connected and trying to start the car I did notice the dash battery gauge jump to 14V. When trying to start it with only my battery, it uses 12V and goes down a bit. I am curious... how many cranking amps should my battery have?
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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 12:35 AM
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I was thinking... I am running my N/A alternator on my 13BT with my N/A harness. Maybe I need to wire up the 13BT alternator??
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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 03:13 AM
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oops my bad, i meant alternator
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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 08:08 AM
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Once you get it started, put the meter on the output terminal on the alternator and see what it is. It should be close to 14vdc at idle. Well 13.5 to 14vdc at idle.

I'm saying, even if it's the n/a alternator, it should charge the battery up just the same as if it were a turbo or third gen alternator/you name it alternator.

We're talking about a car that is sitting in the driveway just idling and there's no a/c, mega watt radio etc being run.

And by the way, the negative cable on the battery goes directly to the long starter bolt. Another gnd for the starter makes not much sense.

You really need to check the alternators output with a meter. At the output terminal on the alternator and then again b/t the pos/neg posts on the battery, WITH the engine idling.

When starting the car, look at the volt gauge. It should drop down to about 9vdc from 12vdc during the start procedure. If it drops down in the five volt area or less, something is wrong with the battery charge or the starter is dragging. Probably not a fully charged battery.
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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by HAILERS

And by the way, the negative cable on the battery goes directly to the long starter bolt. Another gnd for the starter makes not much sense.
I took the old cable off and put the 2 gauge on, it makes since when it started to work again, the stock wire was not in good shape under the insulation, it looked fine on the outside.
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