I just picked up my 1987 Mazda Rx-7 the other day. Then I got rear ended four days after I got it... Sigh... It sux how I did nothing wrong and still my car gets screwed up. Life is not fair. Anyway, I was taking my car apart and putting it back together today just to learn how everything goes together and noticed a small black box above the air filter that says that is made my Mistu... What is it?

What is the best cold air intake system I can buy for a reasonable price?

What about exhaust and headers?

Any help would be awesome. Most repair shops are saying my car is totaled but I am gonna fix it cause I love this car!

 

IF your car is an automatic, that is a sensor related to the automatic trans control setup. IF yours is a 5 speed, I dont know what you have...I'm not aware that the boost/pressure sensors are made by mitsu, but perhaps it is.

Why do you ask? IF it works, don't mess with it.

 

Sounds like the vacuum switch that activates the auto's torque converter lock-up as Kevin mentioned. It's made by Mitsubishi Electric, not Mitsubishi Motors. Is it an auto?
A "cold air intake" is different to a pod filter, if that's what you're thinking of. A true cold air intake ensures only cold air from outside the engine bay enters the intake. A heat shield and a cold air duct will be required if you by a pod filter. Search and you'll find lots of threads with people's solutions.
Again, searching will get you lots of threads on these.

 

for the headers racing beat has some. it at a pretty good price but for better power go with the down pipe. unless u don't want to go illegal. but if u put on a silencer i won't be too loud. that's what i have and i felt the difference from the change of stock to down pipe.

 

Thanks for all the help. I have a 5-speed non-turbo rx-7 so... yeah... I dont really care about keeping it legal cuz we dont have emissions testing in oklahoma anymore. I will prolly go with a racing beat headers and y pipe and cut out the cats and replace them with a straight pipe. I just picked up an estimate to fix my rx-7.... $5500!!!!!!!!! The damage isnt bad but you cant find the replacement parts in a salvage yard because it is impossible to find an rx-7 in central u.s. Thanks for all the help... i still need to find an intake system...

 

oh yeah...

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/529977

I have some pics on there of my car before i got rear ended. The paint was oxidizing* on the hood and the drivers seat was a little ripped but other than that the car was flawless!


*I cant spell or did i spell that right?!

 

ouch I hope your not going to pay 5500 to fix a non turbo rx-7 if its that bad you might be better off buyin a turbo II of ebay or autotrader

 

(Edit...Thread clean up)

Anyway, I would love to get a TII but I dont think I can afford the insurance and gas. Besides the non-turbo is a blast to drive anyway. I enjoy building my cars not buying them. Another reason I bought a n/a and not a TII. If I could get the $5500 to shop for a new car then maybe... hmmm...

 

hey where do you live at in oklahoma i'm a mooreon lol

 

I actually noticed that and searched for exhaust systems and figured out that racing beat would work well. Took a little longer to find an intake system but I think I will go with blitz. Now another ?... I am interested in removing the air pump. (remove weight, free up a couple of horsepower) Do I need to buy another pulley system or do I just remove it and forget it? Should I start another thread? I couldn't find much by searching... (and i'm lazy)... will i lose low end power and will my a/c still work? Help!!! haha!!

I live in Stillwater. Haha do you see many Rx-7's around? I have seen 3 first gens, 3 second-gen rx-7s, and 1 3rd gen. Most people I talk to have no frickin' clue what a rx-7 is let alone a rotaty engine.

 

You know what forget about the air pump ?... I just found out alot... and i think it will stick around for the time being...

 

If the shops are saying its totaled, does that mean written off? You might have a hard time passing the next saftey inspection you have if anything important is messed up.

I brought a S4 auto from a mate who crashed it, he said it was totalled, and it did need alot of work ie. new bumper, bonnet, windscreen, major panelbeating on the roof. However the engine was still mint. Anyways... I sold it to another dude for more than i brought it for!

Cliff notes: Dont fix it if its written off, just sell parts.

 

I was considering using it as a parts car cuz the engine is in great condition (91,005 miles, never been overheated (I know cuz it was my uncles car and he loved this damn thing!!) and has always had the fluids changed at the right time), plus the interior was flawless (except for the drivers seat tear but I was going to replace the seats anyway). Except that there are absolutly NO fc's in central U.S. I dont have much time to fetch it u see...

 

Sorry, I kinda put words in your mouth trying to quote you!! Haha!! Yeah anyway we dont have safety or emissions testing in Oklahoma. Besides the damage isnt all that bad it is just that finding parts from salvage yards and what not is impossible thanks to the small population of Rx-7's in Oklahoma. And new parts from Mazda cost the same now as they did in 87. Instead of becoming cheaper as the car got older.

 

dude, for 5,500 might as well go to www.autotrader.com and get a new one that a 88 or newer, even a turbo 2 .

 

^ thats a huuge bill for repairs
...or even one with a blown engine for cheep and you could do a swap, have heaps of spares for when it breaks, and keep your old uncle happy!

 

This may help you decide which aftermarket filter/intake kit to get.

http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/

 

Dude just keep it as a parts car. The reason the shops tell you its a total loss is because more than likely you damaged something important like the frame. Trust me just buy another car like was mentioned before and just swap out any parts needed.

 

If you have no emissions testing requirements then the air pump, ACV and cat convertor can all be removed. They should all be removed together, because without one the other two are useless, and the stock cat clogs quickly without an air feed. The pump doesn't weigh that much, and even gaining a couple of hp from losing it is wishful thinking, but if it's redundant it might as well go to tidy things up a bit. Removal of the cat will give you a noticeable (but not huge) power increase.
You will need to get a dual-belt alternator pulley so that the water pump doesn't slip at high rpm or when the fan clutch engages.
This won't affect the engine's output, as the S4 6PI system is operated by exhaust back pressure, not air pump pressure like the S5. It will have no effect on the A/C, as that has a seperate belt.

(Edit...Thread clean up)

 

Well the thing is that the repair bill... I wont be paying. That would be the other guys problem. I think I will shop around a little though. NZConvertable, thanks for all the info! I heard that the removal of the air pump would clog my cats (but i am removing then), lose low end power, and the A/C wouldn't work any more. But then again I read this from some1 who had 132 posts. Can I run down to the local Autozone to get the belt or is there somewhere I have to order it from.

 

you can get the belts from any auto parts store. Several online sellers have the alternator pulley. I recently got one from Higgi and highly recommend it.

 

Thanks for all ur help!! If I have anymore ?'s I know who to ask! Thanks again.

 

Thread cleaned up. Good thing I was in a decent mood, otherwise I would have just closed/deleted it. Damn highschool forum...