Check Both of the EFI Fuses,Since you were fooling around with the Injectors.That would be the First Two towards the Engine,On the engine bay fuse Block,..also If the Fuse block had a 30 amp in it..you DON'T replace with a 40 amp!..it means that there is something Wrong!..if you didn't touch the CAS when you Replaced the Injectors,How would there be something wrong with it Now?.I would be "Back Tracking" the wiring that you took off in order to get a the Injectors..I think you have a Ground off on the harness...But Honestly,you should be looking at the FSM on this one...Good luck.

 

I just double checked and i have power to the black and yellow wire on the lead coil and nothing on the green and red one. Then on the trailing coil i've got 12 volts on both of the large black and yellow wires.

I do have a test light and i'll go check those wires now.

 

it's the head section of the fuse block that is supposed to be 30 and has a 40 in it. That was there when i bought the car.



Edit:

So there is voltage to those wires you asked about. I'll check again over by the fuel rail just to double check if there is something unhooked. I'm not sure if the oxygen sensor is supposed to be hooked up or not but it isn't.


SO yeah everything is hooked up around the injectors. I only replaced the top two injectors on the passenger side. As i stated before the fuses are still good.

 

so i just went though the engine compartment and check for grounds with a test light and everything lit up i even checked the intake and fuel rail and both of those lit up. I checked all the bolts around the coil that was grounded to the body and those lit up as well.

 

the o2 sensor would be a fuel concern you will run richer when its unpluged cars in open looop. But that shouldnt effect the ignition and shouldnt cause a no start.

"So there is voltage to those wires you asked about. " are you talking to me about the trailing coil ground wires. BY the way when i asked you to check for voltage on the grounds of the coils i forgot to say with the connector attacked what your looking for is if the ecu grounds the coil and energizes it or if its just not energizing it which im thinking.. Something is missing. has to be the only thing i can really think of that would cause the computer to fire the ignition is CAS. even in a limp mode im pretty sure it would still start the car.

 

I checked with a voltmeter as well as a test light the ground wires from the lead and trailing are grounded. I'll check the computer to see if it's that.

 

well if theres no voltage on ground then the computer is grounding the coil. I would think the computer would leave the circuit open. Not exactly sure how the computer works either way it has to have some input to turn that coil on and off. Wish i knew what the inputs were

 

Yeah it looked to me like it would have to be one of those points on the ecu: M, V, U, or X. Am i supposed to be looking for power when i'm cranking the engine correct?

 

is this a turbo or Na sorry i forgot to ask a while ago. But either way with koeo(key on engine off) you should have power at those pins. you have power at these pins because the ecu is not grounding the primary circuit. When the primary circuit is gorunded you are energizing the coil and will not have power at pin. But when the ecu is not energizing the circuit probably KOEO you will have voltage at the pin. So with the car running You should see voltage it flucuate cause the coil will be energized then de energized.

 

It's a N/A. I'll give that a shot once i get back home.