Hello to all, i have a fc s4 turbo 2 fairly new to rotarys lol but I am really frustrated because I have electrical issues. Guy I bought it off of cut wires everywhere and left random wires and misc. Everywhere. Yesterday I finnaly got it to crank over really excited about that but now I need to narrow down to just getting it started I have a banjo bolt coming in the mail and need to figure out what I am going to do with the coils there is about 4 two prong connectors that dangle will post pics tomorrow... But where the coils connect is cut and need the female end to go into coils can't find the connectors anywhere and there is only 1 rx7 in a junk yard around without having to drive a hour or so but is a first gen should I just splice it somehow or what?
Joe

 

Bump. Someone leave feedback

 

post pics (if you can) of what you're talking about exactly and what you need. Cleaning up hack jobs is always tough... but if you need connectors or what not I bet someone on here has them... I may even have them. If you have wires that are cut, you could also solder them back together.

 

If you only have to drive an hour to find a junkyard with a few FCs in it, why haven't you already gone and gotten what you need? Lucky duck, man! Lol

For the coil plug, find yourself a female end. See above. Butt-connect or solder it together and apply dielectric before heatshrinking.

All that's left is your starting issue. We do need to know what plugs you have dangling there before we can help you. Also, what does it do on cranking? Does it spin fast or slow? Other than the coil issue [duh it's barely gonna start], have you had a look at the spark plugs yet? Tested compression?

 

It cranks over fast and the plugs look good and the compression can't be checked because I have no way of checking it. Don't have a compression tester and the banjo bolt should be coming in the mail Friday so yet to stop the leaking in the back of the intake but just worried about getting the coils connected

 

Also just taking a guess I have no idea if i can find any second gen 7's that are not guted already

 

So what are you sticking a banjo bolt in on the intake?

As for the junkyards, you can usually call or go online to check inventory.

As for a compression tester, you can go to AutoZone and rent the one they have there. When you bring it back, you get all youf money and the tax back. You will just need a friend to crank it. Unplug the CAS and screw it in the lead plug. HOLD THE SHRADER VALVE OPEN so it pulses instead of just sticking. You are looking for 90+ psi on each face of both rotors and no more than an 8psi difference between faces and rotors. Everything needs to be pretty uniform. The compression set is $60 to loan but like I said you get that and even the tax on it back when you return it. You can use the tool for 90 days.

 

Where the fpd goes on the intake well back of it an here are the pics I have the two female ends for the trailing but the leading I do not understand should both connectors have both positive or should it be positive and negative

 

Lead coil has a plug w/two wires where one is B/Y and the other is G/Y. Trailing coil has a 2 wire plug w/both wires being B/Y and the other plug has 4 wires (Blue/Red, Brown/Yellow, Blue/Yellow and Yellow/Blue).

 

I cannot find where that connector is

 

Your green connectors there are diagnostics plugs. You check engine codes with the single pin with a jumper wire to the negative batery terminal. I'm not 100% on the second pic or last. The third picture shows your leading coil plugs; the round 4-pin and the rectangular 6-pin white plastic plugs.

 

I'm sorry but I honestly can't believe you expected it to run without a leading ignition coil. Don't even try to start it until you have one safely installed.

 

Also the AZ compression tester part number is 27138. Go pick one up and post results after you use it.

 

They are part of the Front harness. The B/Y powering both coils comes from your Main Relay (one of the four wires in the Main Relay four wire plug).

 

I didn't expect it to start but its a next step forward from not being able to crank it over at all, first started from no power to the car at all now I have power to car fuel pump running and it being able to crank over the coils are the main issue now that I have most everything else working per say...

 

I feel you, bud, and sorry for the harshness of my comment. Just make sure you don't keep running it like that until you have it all buttoned up.

 

Is the 4 prong connector that you were talking about that is on the trailing coil I cannot find a connector anywhere in the area to fit :\

 

Could it be that the leading coil has the wrong connector? Also there is where I believe where the wires are cut is where the actuall coil connector goes I believe it would be that one since it has 12v of power but the trailing coils has 2 prong with 12v through both prongs

 

If its truly a leading coil and unmolested, I don't think it will or should have a different plug. I can't remember if a N/A coil and TII coil have different plugs. I'm sure someone can chime in or google it. I would try and replace that front harness. It'll have that fuse panel and other stuff on it I think. It's been so long since I took one out of an old TII car. That thing looks hacked.
I don't know how fast its turning over... but if its turning over super fast and all the plugs are in there tight enough to not lose compression... you probably have a blown apex seal. How easy is it to turn over by hand? You will be able to feel the compression cycles turning it over by hand. Granted you need a gauge as suggested to get an accurate reading... I'm just concerned with your "its turning over fast" comment.
Please research your fuel system. Holy heck, you don't want to burn the thing to the ground. Are you putting in an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator if you eliminate the FPD? It's on the fuel rail under the intake not the intake itself. Again, if I get stumped, which I do frequently, I google it. For me, it pulls up stuff better than the search function on here.

 

So I would have to get a aftermarket fuel pressure regulator to run a banjo bolt and it turns over fairly easy just cause I am spinning the whole assembly fan alternator etc but I am trying to get as much as I can I'm not really mechanically inclined also do t want to mess up anything else I do t feel like spending lots too fix my mistakes

 

You should be able to turn the engine over by hand, but you will easily notice some resistance - your compression. If you can spin it over and it spins very freely with little to no resistance, you're not makjng compression somewhere.

DO NOT. I repeat, DO NOT trust the banjo bolt hack. If you have an issue with the pulsation dampener, save your money and buy an OEM rail with the PD attached from Atkins or Mazdatrix. IMO it's not worth the risk of burning your 7 and possibly your home/garage to the ground by using some second rate hack to fix a big problem.

TLDR; you NEED a new fuel rail and you NEED to go to an AutoZone or somewhere and rent [from AZ you get your money back when you're done] a compression tester. It's that simple. Do these things and post results.

 

I have the same issue. I only have 2 female connectors not connected though.looks like they come off of harness that connects to tranny though. Went back to n.a. Ecu and harness have t2 harness and Ecu though. Still crank no start either
found out I have no spark either will keep reading threads thanks for your help. swapped coils no spark. After that looked to forum found you all talking about it.

 

Is it cranking over at all if not I would check all your grounds anyways yea its a big time problem and it has been raining and have not been able to check my compression then tomorrow calls for snow it was just 74° yesterday ftw onlyvin Ohio...

 

FL weather is similar. I second the grounding suggestion. That in itself is a common problem, just don't forget to address the starter ground and the one under the intake manifold on the rear rotor housing.

 

Let me also add too that aaroncake has a master grounding procedures page on his website and it is also posted here. Search aaroncake grounding procedures