Hi

Im from Australia and pretty new to the rotary scene.

I have a few issue's with my FC.
Firstly it is the 86 model FC3S with the S5 13B Turbo running on the stock S4 ECU.

A few issue's I have is

1. I have an anoying beep beep noise that comes on once I hit 110KM/H's does any one know how I can disable it.

2. The other day my wiper arm came off from the wiper motor, I connected it back together to find out that my wipers only work on the 2nd speed now, what should I check? can it be a fuse? it only started doing it once the wiper arm disconnected from the wiper motor. I took the casing off the fuse box to check if it was a fuse but the writing is in japanese, so if someone could post up what the possition of the fuses are in english that would be a great help.

3. after driving it for an hour. I pulled up and found smoke comming off the turbo. I checked my oil and it is full. I havnt taken the turbo shielding off yet and had a look but it smelt like something was leaking onto the turbo and the turbo was cooking the liquid as it was not smoking continuosly. So it became apparent to me that something was dripping onto the turbo and the turbo was smoking until the liquid was burnt and then doing it again when another drop hit the turbo.

4. Last issue is when i put my foot flat on the gas sometimes i can hear a slit grind noise could it be that the engine is pinging? as it has not be tuned with the current ECU and after connecting a boost gauge i can see that I run 5 psi or when i put my foot flat down on the gas it drops down to 4psi boost.

can someone please help me as the car is sitting in my garage untill i can sort out these problems. I have searched the internet and found the smartest and most knowledgable FC guys on this site.

any help would be great.

Thanks



3.

 

The wiper switches are notorious for failing and doing just want you mentioned. Replace it.

Take the turbo heat shield off and check the turbo oil inlet pipe/gasket. The gasket may need replaced.

 

thanks for your help riverzend

I will take the heat shileding off and check out the piping 2nite and let u know what i find.

is it the actuall switch that needs to be changed or the whole unit including the the wiper ****? how do i get to the switch? do i need to take the instrument cluster surrounding off?

my exhaust down pipe off the turbo has a small hole. will tha effect the way the boost comes on?

 

1. That's you speed sensor warning (You have a japanese import? Has a 180km speedo?). Pull the guage cluster out, look at the back of it. Should see two screw's with numbers next to 'em. 100km & 180km, remove 'em =)

2. Replace it, just ring up a few local importer's of half cuts. Someone should be able to help you out.

3. Good luck getting the heat shielding off. Mongruel of a job. Just out of interest, you don't get any black puff's off smoke out of your car when you plant the accelerator?

4. No sure about this one mate. Pinging sounds like a "tink tink" noise. Hard to tell/guess from "noise" descriptions, maybe check the turbo front wheel isn't hitting the housing?

 

Thanks for the advice I will give them all ago.

1. So basically unscrew the 2 screws with the numbers next to them to switch the noise off. Is it a hard job taking out the gauge cluster? n e tips on how to do it the best way or just unscrew it and pull it out?

2. I will contact a supplier for another switch.

3. there was a screw missing from my turbo shielding before but i fixed it up, I will try and take it off. is there a big advantage having it on? does it make a big difference to the power and performance of my car?

4. when I gas my car sounds like a lil grinding it will do it two or three times and stop? my car runs 5psi boost till i put my foot flat on the excellarator n then it shows as 4psi on the gauge? what do the stock series 4 n 5 13 b turbo's run?

oh and I have checked out the black smoke, as far as I can see im not blowing black smoke at all. I havnt washed my car in a few months and there isnt even any build up ontop of the exhausts? the smell of the fumes tho are very strong. If i stand behind my car or near it the fumes burn my nose and sting my eyes. Is that common in rotary's? my old s4 engine did the same 2.

Thanks for your knowledge. it is greatly appreciated

From OZ!

 

1. It's pretty simple to take out the guage cluster. Drop down the steering wheel. Remove screws from underside of the "face/surround" (what the wiper,headligh etc switches attach to), then there is also a couple on the top part of the surround aswell. Pull it off slightly, and disconnect the wiring to the switches. Remove it. Now should be able to see the screws that hold the guage cluster in place. Away you go

2. Try www.ausrotary.com Should be private sellers on there with 'em forsale.

3. I removed mine with tin snips (plus alot of swearing). Just couldn't get it unbolted. I replaced the stock turbo with a twin setup so I didn't need to keep the shield. It's worth while keeping as it keeps the engine bay cooler. It's not a performance issue, just more of a longevity issue for engine bay components. Reason I asked about black smoke, is this is what happens when a turbo's oil seal is stuffed (also can cause that "smoking" you described from the motor/turbo).

4. I'm honestly not sure about that noise. As for boost, are you running a fuel cut defender? If so the stock boost guage is pretty useless. Can't remember stock boost level's as I never paid much attention to 'em Had a stock turbo running 18psi till an oil seal shat itself. ( No people it wasn't spiking, water injection is a wonderful thing).

That eye bleeding thing is because you can is running WAY rich at idle and also because I'm guessing your air pump has been removed.

Anyway check out www.ausrotary.com or www.perthrotary.com to get some more localised help mate.

 

awesome

thanks so much for all your help.

I dont think i have a fuel cut defender in it. unless they come with one stock.
I recently had some spastics take my car for 2 n a half months n put a s5 13b t into my s4 as a replacement to my s4 13b and left my old s4 ecu in it.

I have got a aftermarket boost gauge, installed that to see what boost i was running as i could not understand the stock boost gauge and what it is in know its not in psi n dont think it was in bars either?

working all week cept sunday but will try and do the cluster tomorrow arvo/night.

i gotta take my gaurds off to get my car up on my ramps at home to get under the car for the turbo shielding n check whats the deal with my oil lines.

 

Once boost reaches a certain level, the stock ecu will cut fuel to the rear rotor as a "engine preservation measure". Fuel cut defender is an aftermarket item that fools the ecu into thinking boost never reaches that level. Doesn't come stock. More boost = more power to a certain level, till the stock ecu can't keep up with fueling requirements and then your motor die's

s4 ecu o.O? Then presumeablely they've just replaced the bare engine block, kept the s4 Throttle Body, boost controler solenoid etc. Can't put an s5 ecu in it (and no need). Who did the work?

 

Thats interesting.

I thought i would be atleast running 7psi, so when i did put the boost gauge in and took it for a drive n saw it running 4 n 5psi, i was a bit startled.

I purchased the car from E & M Unique Motors on paramatta Rd in Five Dock, Sydney. I took the car there to get some work done to it after purchasing it and got a call a few days later saying the car wasnt starting, I said thats weird the car was fine when i dropped it 2 u! after a few days they called me up and told me the rear apex seal was blown and i could either have my enginer rebuilt or they could find me an already rebuilt engine which they said would be faster and cheaper than rebuilting my current s4 13b T engine.

I said that was fine aslong as they did all the labour for free as the car was fine when i took it to them.

a bit over three months later and alot of calls from me asking them what the hell was going on they finally got it going.

firstly they had probs getting the s5 engine to idle properly as they had not changed alot of parts that the s5 engine would need,

They said they couldnt do it so they sent it somewhere else, those guys couldnt figure it out and said the apex seal on that engine was blown to. so they got another engine which they couldnt sort out and they took it back out again.

The 1st engine they had put in the s5 engine went back into the car and they sent it to the rotary shop which e n m had purchased the engine to be fitted.

I think there is bits in there. The new turbo responds alot better. They told me the s5 engine has more electronic components?

I dunno. All I can say is I wasnt very happy it taking them over 3 months to fix it and costing me around 2 to 2 n a half k.

 

That's a heck off a story. I would probablely advice only taking your car to rotary specialist from now on

The S5 does have more "electronic componets" (As I understand what you/they mean by this term) , but you can't control them with the s4 ecu. Probablely explains why they couldn't get it to "idle properly".

 

hmmm! I dont know wot to say! hey guys I havnt been around for a while, recently got married n just got back from my honeymoon, the rx7 has been sitting in the garage. I did a oil change last week and my oil was low.

I am running 4 to 5psi of boost is this correct on a stock ecu and motor? im pretty sure my ecu is a s4? maybe if you can tell me where the ecu is located and how i can tell what model ecu it is i can have a look and let you know what it says.

my exhaust is terrible, i need to replace it as soon as i can afford it, There is a good place in australia, sydney. called brookvale mufflers who will look after that. my question is I have snapped the welds from my exhaust onto my turbo twice and have also snapped my rear left muffler before aswell and had them all welded back together. heres the part that is worrying me when i put a load on the engine especially in a higher gear without letting the turbo spool up i feel a slight delay in power and a grinding sort of noise, like metal to metal, either a rubbing noise or a grinding. could it be my exhaust as i couldnt hear the noise when i had no exhaust on it.

also one last thing is when the revs get over 4 or 5k if i dont have my foot flat the engine does not respond well at all. if i want the engine to rev out my foot has to be flat on the gas otherwise the engine doesnt want to go and feels and sounds sort of like when u have one of your spark plug leads off.

your expertise opinion is greatly appreciated. Thanks heeps for all your on going support with my car. i appreciate it heeps.

 

heres some more info for you re the grinding/rubbing noise. when i put a full load on the engine, by this i mean pretty much from 1k revs and then plant my foot down it will make a creeeek creeeeek creeeeek noise there will be a slight delay in power to when i here the noise n then the noise goes away n its fine.

I am not very knowledgeable with the rotaries as u can tell and want to do some small mods to my car to give it some more power/performance. what would you reccomend me to do?

Cheers