Chillichinchilla

So a little update, I placed the engine on the flywheel and rigged it to hold it straight, moved the housing instead of the flywheel and got a reading so I am good to go, Decided to drop the engine in, and I couldn't line it up at all with the trans, fucked up pilot seal and gave up. I will be dropping the trans, and mating the trans to engine outside of the car instead. BUT, if anyone has dropped the engine in while the trans was in the car, any tips?

jjwalker

Did you use a clutch alignment tool?

Chillichinchilla

ofcourse, Ive done a few clutch changes, but never had an engine out, always did it with the trans out, nonetheless, I have dropped the trans and mated it outside of the engine-bay.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

I installed my engine with the trans already in place and it is indeed tricky.

A load leveler on the engine hoist helps a lot.

DO NOT try to get a couple of bolts in the flange and try to draw the two tight...when it's aligned correctly, the trans will slip right into the pilot bearing and seat.

Jack the front of the trans up a little so it more closely matches the angle of the incoming engine.

Basically though it's just fiddling about until it decides to slide in.
...and there's a fluffy Monday morning softball, lobbed to our two Canadian mods as a gesture of goodwill...

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Late to the party, but...

Don't take a chance. End play should be there, you shouldn't have to use a prybar to see it. Take the front stack apart and double check. Did you put the oil pan already on?

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

^ can't edit my post (I just posted it!?!). Ignore - I missed the second page.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

This. If you have a helper, have him put the tranny in gear, slide in the driveshaft and turn slowly to help line up the input shaft with the clutch disk splines.

And worth repeating: DON'T use the bolts to force the two together!

Chillichinchilla

Yeah I think Ill drop engines with trans out from now on, it slipped on in about 1-2 minutes when I did it out of the car. End play is fine, just hard to measure when everything is assembled I guess.

Chillichinchilla

Ok, I need someones input on this. I just finished the rebuild and tried to start it today Keep in mind: (Power steering sensor and Intake heat sensor are both disconnected. They broke), but nonetheless I gave it a go and it wouldn't start. This is how it went down:
Connected the battery, in the car on gauge I got a reading of 9 volts Tried to start it, but it was going slow. Then I went ahead and jump-started it with a corolla, I got a 11.9~ reading, and it went a little faster, I heard 2 backfires, and since it wouldn't start I tried to use a 4 cylinder accord, this one gave a reading of 12.5~ volts. I thought this was going to work, nope car lost all electricity (I reconnected my battery and got power back). Throughout this whole time, if I flicked my headlights the lights would turn on, but it would move maybe a few centimeters up and stop, never go down. Also when I left the key in accessory position, I heard a buzzing almost like a high voltage cable buzz from somewhere around the upper intake.

Any input on what could be wrong here is appreciated. Right now, I am using a trickle charger overnight, but if it wont start, I will drop off the battery to be charged (hopefully tomorrow).

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The battery is toast. Replace it with a good one.

The engine is now flooded because it has been cranked slowly. Unfortunately that's washed off all the lube from the housings so the compression is going to be very low.

Put a few ounces of oil into each chamber and manually roll the engine over to clear the fuel.

It may start on it's own with a GOOD FRESH battery now.

If not, you can spend the next 3 days messing around with batteries, or spend 5 minutes push starting it with another vehicle. Carefully push (blankets between bumpers) up to about 20 MPH, then with the key on IGN slip the clutch in 1st gear. Engine should catch.

Oh, make sure that the CAS is not stabbed one tooth off, and that the trailing/leading ignition wires are not mixed up.

Chillichinchilla

Thanks Aaron, that's actually exactly what I did, the oil in chambers trick and a friends battery... And it fired it up, ran for 30 mins, took it down the block, drives all fine, and let it idle for another hour or so.

Now to address other issues:
-Oil pressure is good, but oil pressure gauge took a poop after 2 hours...
-new IAT
-Drill + Tap a hole for the missing Water thermosensor... (very odd.)
-Possibly drop the trans and change out the bearing (Hear grinding noise in trans when clutch is engaged) Sounds like someone is sharpening a knife really quietly xD
-Address 1 coolant leak and 1 oil leak.
-Address the Death wobble.
-Paint and GO!

Very happy rotary engine, good compression.