Chillichinchilla

Just bought a used iron. It has some chipping around the O-ring Groove. Wondering if this is usable or should I JB weld a little or just toss into the garbage... This is the opposite side from intake. intake side has a little less chipage. Its simply not a clean edge all it is.

lduley

iTrader: (1)

Thaaaaats iffy. What is it for? Is it going to be under boost at all? If its just for a n/a, you could probably keave it and be ok, it sat with some water leakage for sure

Nick_d_TII

iTrader: (6)

I'd use it.

bumpstart

looks worse cause you have left the remnant of the old water seal edge in there

there is nothing wrong with it

Chillichinchilla

n/a everydayyy. Maybe a small streetport just because it's torn apart. But really you think there is still some water seal in there. Dear lord I already have taken out 3 of them out of the same groove. Should I JB weld at all? Ocd. I like clean edges.

bumpstart

yes you can see the edge of the white inner strip still there , they tend to stick to the iron

some patience and a pick or blade and it comes off

.. that plate looks ok from here

lduley

iTrader: (1)

don't JB it, just put it together

turbo_dave

iTrader: (50)

Yeah that looks like some of the old water seal still on there.use a pic and I'm sure it will come off.

Dak

Yeah looks like remnants of old water seals as others have said. I used an old apex seal to clean mine. Worked like a charm. Just wear gloves the sharp edges can slice you.

w0ppe

I'd still use it. Nothing a razor and some goo gone stuff can't get rid of!
You could probably also WD-40 the iron so it doesn't collect flash rust, just in case.

Chillichinchilla

I was talking about thr chipped edge. I will be tossing it into a pressure washing machine. But you guys seem to say it will be ok. Could someone explain why? Wouldnt the sealing be compramised since it will have some free space.

bumpstart

highlight the bits you think are chipped.. all i see is remnants of the white liner stuck along the inner edge in places
and it looks no different to plates on the other dozen s4/5 engines i have here disassembled

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

i think i see it. it looks like a small rectangular chunk was taken out. if you can catch a fingernail on it, no. if it can be buffed out, then yes.

TonyD89

iTrader: (10)

Are you talking about the rusty area across from the sensor?

Chillichinchilla

Nonono, I cleaned it up though and I am pretty sure if was just carbon buildup, regardless, I will be putting some silicone in there to fill up the space, no problem. It looks good now though I have another issue. I bought an s4 front iron on accident due to my ignorance... But I can get a different oil seal and it should be fine, but how can I eyeball the port and make it exactly the same on both irons (Anyone have a thread on over sizing the irons with no port template ?) :/ thinking of inserting dowels and putting a paper over em and tracing. Should do the trick. Now I think I will do a Bridgeport, will a bridge start up and run fine on a stock ECU? I will be getting a standalone later on.

bumpstart

the plates and ports are essentially the same ..
your example simply has the dowel o ring still stuck in place and has one of the power steering bracket studs pulled

there will be s4/s5 differences sometimes in the size of the O ring land in the passage through to the timing cover.
later ones have the nylon support ring around the O ring and so you order the n386 timing cover gasket
there is also a change for the water pump housing, s5 ones do not need the very slim spacer washer

Chillichinchilla

Ah, i was just pointing out the shape of dowel pin area. So seems like im g2g on rebuild regardless ill check ports as i have read that the older irons have a litttle bit of a difference. Should i even bother with the 6port temolate from pineapple or is there any good writeup on draeing your own?

Dak

I have used Hylomar or this Permatex stuff on mine.
Gasket Sealants : Permatex® PermaShield? Fuel Resistant Gasket Dressing & Flange Sealant

I'm sure if you search enough you can find the info you need to draw your own. I used the Pineapple ones. Most of the porting is done to the primaries with them. They do a little porting on the secondaries( not much). I did not touch my aux(5th & 6th ports). I have been meaning to post some pics but haven't got to it.

Chillichinchilla

I have been researching a lot so I got kinda tired of all of that so decided to ask for a thread. Maybe someone can point it out for me. But yeah I am ordering the kit today with the different gasket so I am going to be rebuilding my engine this month.

Chillichinchilla

Another question.. Sorry to keep bugging you guys. So I had some sandpaper I went ahead and started sanding with 60/80/120/150/200/220. In that order and got the mating surfaces of rotor housings fairly clean. There is some pitting around it. Most of it, I can't even feel with my finger (may be some dirt, I dont know.) But what should I line my mating surfaces with, because of the pitting.

bumpstart

hylomar brush on

Sammy Built

iTrader: (18)

The pitting on the housing will have no effect on the rebuild. Unless it was on the coolant seal location but looking at the picture that's not the case. I wouldn't even sweat it just leave it alone.

lastphaseofthis

iTrader: (8)

i recently tig welded some pitting and planed it back down, need to finish it off and put up picks, ..

welding and filing is a great tool for future rotary refurbishing, as this stuff is all NLA.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Whoa, 80 grit?! With all those stages you need to measure the housing to make sure you sanded it down evenly!

If you must use sand paper (I no longer do) then use 300 grit wet on a nice flat sanding block.

Nowadays I use Scotch Brite surface prep discs on an arbor driven by a drill. I put the housing/iron into the parts washer and allow fluid to run over the area while the pad is used. Takes about 5 minutes to clean an iron with the more aggressive pads, then about 5 - 8 minutes to clean a housing with the less aggressive pads. I believe they are called "Roloc".

Any little pits in the iron o-ring sealing surface can be filled with some JB-Weld and then carefully sanded smooth.

Chillichinchilla

Oh i dun goofed, should i pickup some labbing compound and hand lap away?