Still no EXACT wording on how he cut the dynamic chamber in half.... guess I'll go nuts w/ my metal gravity band-saw.

Just a thought. But might you try throwing a pair of modded Pineapple racing sleeves into the 5/6th ports? If it helps so much with flow of air, the increase after this mod would be quite a bit more, I'd think.

 

Using those sleeves would work great if you glued them in (open obviously). Just remove the metal cross rod from them so airflow isn't blocked. I prefer to just use plastic steel epoxy to create a radius. Only costs a few bucks instead of $60 and works just as well.

I tried to post some new pictures of the fuel rail mod up close, the hold down bracket for the injectors, and my ported air flow meter (you'll love that one!) but they were too large. I'll have to work on that tomorrow.

Hint: I don't use a band saw although that might work too!

 

I'm tempted to just make my own manifold.

1 big, flat peice of steel, 2 different diameter pipes, and volia! New, even less restrictive Dynamic Chamber. Hell, my friend is good enough at welding, that I could have a logo welded on the top.

 

Did you see my custom manifold thread? I do build them. I have one on my 2nd gen. I have a few pics of it as well as other things on that car.

 

No, I didn't see a custom dynamic chamber, better search huh?

 

I've been working on a way to incorporate 2 AFM's onto an FC for a pretty good amount of time now (also using a y-pipe). I just haven't told anyone yet...you'll see when I'm done (if ever!). Just know that my inspiration is to get an intake setup like the 575M (remember Ferrari is my second favorite company in the world, so I draw a lot of inspiration from their design...). My main concern with the intake setup that I'm going for is to find a way to keep rain water out of the car since it's pretty much a ridiculously sweet ram-air setup, w/out using the AEM bypass valve.

 

By the way feel free to shoot out ideas if you have any (I plan on using a scoop similar to the 575M's scoop also, but I need to find one...), any help would be useful.

 

Here was the link to the other thread. It is in the rotaary performance forum.

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=113249

Those pics are from my 2nd gen. The S5 manifold is for my 1st gen.

KiyoKix: How do you plan on making 2 afm's work properly with the stock ecu?

 

Why isnt this stickied yet?? This is good stuff!!

 

How exactly would two AFMs work? The only way i could think of would be to use two ECUs as well.... maybe if you ran the AFMs in series you could do it with one ECU. Hmm.. someone wanna shed some light on me? About the guy that used two AFMs but only had one hooked to the ECU, what the hell was the purpose of even having the other one on there if it wasnt even hooked up?! Thanks

NICE work "rotarygod". I have been thinking and planing on making my own manifold similar to yours, but, i have A-no money and B- no welder. So.. haha, im screwed. Keep up the great work man

 

Oh yeah, what exactly do you use to fill in the holes in the lower intake manifold? It looks like used some sort of metal epoxy and then just sanded/grinded it down to be smooth. Very nice, looks way better than a block off plate. Mind if i yank that idea from you? THanks

 

Any time I need spots filled in I use plastic steel epoxy. For something like the egr passages I use the stick type that you mix in your hand. Dries in about 10 minutes. Easily sanded using an electric sander. I've been working on 2 intakes today. One is an '87 T-II that I just cut the plenum apart in and the other is an S5. I'll post the finish sanded egr ports tomorrow and hopefully I'll have the interior plenum shots up within the next hour or so. Everyone has been bugging me about those pictures!

Go ahead and borrow any of my ideas if you like them. I don't have any secrets since I believe we should all help each other.

Liquid Anarchy: I use a sabre saw with an 8" blade to cut the plenum apart. Takes about 20 minutes.

Anyone wanna do a writeup on their website about all of this? I don't have my own site. If you do just give me my due credit!

 

Here's the first picture of the inside of a dynamic chamber. This one is a S4 T-II. The all look similar to this. Kind of dark and hard to see good detail. Pictures do no justice for how bad it really looks. More are on the way.

 

Here's a better picture I just took. Next time you all see it, it should look much prettier. I will constantly post updated pictures as I make progress on these. College, work, fraternity, and girlfriend leave so little time for grinding fun!

I don't know if anyone else has ever noticed but the throttle body is not centered on the plenum on the T-II manifolds. It favors the rear. Clearance issues with the alternator I guess.

FWIW I am not using the T-II plenum when it is done. I am doing it for illustration purposes to show everyone how to do it. The S4 lower manifold that I have picture with my S5 upper is also not getting used by me. If anyone has any interest in acquiring these when I am finished please let me know.

 

Well, that explans my wondering. You said you cut it vertically, not horizontally. THAT is what was giving me trouble to figure out. Now, it's not that confusing at all.

 

Here is a picture of the newly modded fuel rail. A couple of drill bits, a pipe tap, and a few brass fittings and voila!

 

On that step, I'd imagine that cutting and extending the rail would be more cost-effective. Instead of having to buy brass fittings, and 2 lines for the injectors; all you would need to buy is a small length of pipe, and 1 longer fuel-line.

 

Exactly where can you get "plastic steel epoxy"? and what brand do you use? Thanks. It seems that everytime i pick my own epoxy to use something bad happens... say.. .i blow my motor.

 

liquid anarchy: I think my way is the most cost effective and easiest. Less than $10 in materials including the bar stock I make the injector hold down from. The rail I can modify in about 10-15 minutes and the bar takes another 15 or so to do. The bolt holes I use to hold the bar down are a couple of the originals that were used on the actuators for the 6 port system. You would have to find a new way to attach the bar down as well as doing some welding. I don't think that that would be more cost effective or cheaper. Besides my way is intended to be easily accomplished by anyone in their own garage with no special tools or skills.

Roy: I buy plastic steel epoxy from Sears Hardware. It is made by Devcon. There are several manufacturers of similar products but I use what I know works. It is available in a putty stick form which I use to do most mods with and also in a 2 part mix. I use this for more serious things like filling in runners on the inside where the air actually flows. Do not under any circumstance use J B Weld in your engine. After about 150 degrees it gets a little soft and can change shape. If it is inside your engine runners anywhere it could even let go and fall through the motor. Stay away from this stuff. Too expensive and too weak.

 

haha.. you arnt telling me ****

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...eapple+sleeves

 

Damn I bet that hurt! Luckily I didn't fiqure it out the hard way or by word of mouth. I once used J B Weld as a body filler for small cuts and scratches in plastic body parts. It would work fine at first or in the winter. In the summer when it got warm and the sun was beating on it, it would start to change shape and sag.

 

I'd like to see STOCK manifold versus modified manifold on the engine dyno runs back-to-back...

You just undid years and millions of dollars of engineering Mazda did to come up with that manifold design and fuel injection programming.

Cutting the plenum was stupid - you just lost the high velocity intake charge that normally goes through just the primaries.&nbsp The single large throttle body screws everything up even more.

Sure, what you did would make for better top-end power, I would expect trying to street something like this next to impossible.

The relocation of the fuel injectors messes up the fuel injector phasing of the secondary fuel injectors.&nbsp You might or might not feel any differences - stock ECU, right?&nbsp You just move them over the hot exhaust manifold (NA or turbo), which adds unnecessary heat - unless you have some kinda heat shielding planned?

Is this some street project?&nbsp Or some no-holds barred (i.e. racing) application?


-Ted

 

Anybody else move the injectors besides rotarygod?? I would like doing that this weekend along with removing some stuff but I want to know if it really adds power.

RETed how does that mess up the phasing in any noticable way?? The injectors are going at pretty much a constant stream and even if they are off a little you would lose how much hp?? 1 maybe? Sure its not perfect but if it helps.

 

It never ceases to amaze me how many so called experts out there like to criticize things that they have never tired and can only speculate on. Can't tell me something I have already done and tried doesn't work. I know it does but I guess ignorance is bliss. Denial must be shear pleasure then! To each his own. If you don't like it the please don't read the post and by all means don't respond. I could care less what you think. I am not forcing anyone here to do this. If you don't believe in it then don't do it! I have done it and just thought it would be nice to share some performance mods with other enthusiasts. Go flame aaron cake since his car wasn't designed for a turbo and he just messed up millions of dollars and years of research by Mazda engineers. Come to think of it anyone who in any way at all changes any part on their car to any aftermarket products what so ever is changing what Mazda engineers designed that part for. Grow up and stop flaming poeple for what you personally don't believe in!

 

FWIW for years people have been putting different manifold combos on stock ecu equipped L98 Chevy V-8s and getting power gains. Those TPI systems were designed for only the stock manifold so why add larger runners, or even shorter runners with a larger plenum and larger throttle bodies, or siamesed runners which increase the torque spread? GM must be pissed at all the money they wasted! Some of the greatest creations uh...in fact all of the greatest creations have come from people who were daring enough to try something new and different. The best products out there are not mass produced they are customized. I think there were people out there back in the 1400's who said the Earth was flat and you would sail off the end of it so why go. Columbus didn't care and we now have our happy little homes.

As for the injector location: on an n/a the injectors aren't near as close to the exhaust as you think they are. No big problems with heat. Ever looked at where airplane efi equipped 6 port engine injectors mount? How do you know I haven't thought about a heat shield since you haven't seen the completed product yet? I am building a new one since the one that ran on my car 4 years ago is no longer around. I never took pictures of it. Also the injectors on the T-II manifolds are not moved down. They are moved a couple of inches up. You would have known this if you had actually taken the time to read the thread instead of trying to find bs ways of criticizing it. The gains are not necessarily due to the fact that the injectors are moved but because the bumps that protrude into the manifold where the stock location is are removed and now flow more air. Who cares about low end power. Did I say low end was increased? No! I said there was an increase from 4000 rpm up.