http://www.rx7.com/store/rx7/fcintake.html

Or is there better for less? Thanks.

 

To be honest, its better if you leave your intake stock. If you use after market filters it would more likely suck more heat in than colder air. If you are looking for better power i would suggest start on your exhaust...0.2cents

 

And after the exhaust? (The exhaust is done already).

I have $500 to spend. What to buy?

 

tires.
suspension
driveshaft
flywheel
clutch

thats pretty much the order i would go in.
im assuming its not turbo

 

k&n drop in replacement ftw!!

 

Driveshaft??? Are you serious?

 

Any recommendations for the 2 in orange? I'm not too good with what brands are better than others.

 

anything racing beat sells is worth buying.

 

why not? you can get an aluminum one for like 375 bucks. or a carbon one for like 900 if your baller.

 

and you save like 3 or 4 lbs.....you can save more weight by getting vert bbs wheels. Plus if your lucky you can find them in the junkyard for 25 a wheel and then get some sticky tires

 

bonez is a freaking rip!

your better off going ebay for the adapter and than ordering a k&n cone filter to fit it and still save like 60 bucks

 

That kit doesn't use a real K&N filter.

If your engine is not ported then you can just use a K&N drop-in filter.

Also, you can piece together your own kit:
AFM adapter:
http://rx7cz.net/shop/
K&N filter:
http://www.knfilters.com/universal/universal.htm
Air pump filter:
http://www.knfilters.com/vent.htm
Hose clamps and brackets (stereo or other type) are available at your local auto parts store. This type of inlet should also have some type of custom box or deflector to keep the hot radiator discharge air from getting sucked into the intake and ruining the engine performance.

The stock driveshaft usually binds up around 150K miles, and you can't repair it unless you use the ghetto rebuild kit that I think is dangerous. The Mazdatrix aluminum driveshaft is about the same price as an OEM replacement driveshaft. I don't see much point in using a junkyard driveshaft of dubious mileage unless you are dead broke, in which case you probably shouldn't own a sports car anyway.

Suspension - Replace all of the bushings and mounts (warning, this is more expensive and difficult than it looks). The bushings & mounts usually come in 5 types, listed in order from mild to more intense: OEM, 40% stiffer rubber, urethane, Delrin (UHMW), and custom spherical bearing. For struts, Tokico non-adjustable blues are common for basic street and autocross, KYB AGX are good adjustables for street and autocross, and for track racing you should move up to at least Koni coil-overs with Eibach ERS springs. I recommend against buying cheap (Megan, Buddy Club, etc.) or over-priced shiny Japanese coil-over kits unless you are just building a show car. Anti-roll (sway) bars and strut tower bars are optional. Camber/caster plates are required if you plan to use race settings.

Flywheel - See if you can try driving somebody else's car to see which flywheel suits your taste. I wouldn't bother replacing the flywheel until you need to rebuild the engine, replace the clutch, or otherwise need to unbolt the engine/transmission.

- Fuel pulsation damper (keeps your car from catching on fire)
- Two oil pedestal O-rings P/N 9954-10-1601 (keeps oil from leaking onto your lower heater hose and causing a pinhole leak)
- Fumoto oil drain valve F-106 Regular (lets you change the oil without jacking up the car if you have a low-profile pan, lets you drain just a bit of oil in the case of an overfill or oil analysis, and never again replace the dang plug gasket, fish for the plug in the hot oil pan, or bash your knuckles when loosening the plug.
http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/
- Synthetic oil for the manual transmission and differential. (I like Red Line brand)
- What about other things like coolant / distilled water, thermostat, brake fluid, wheel bearings, door outer window seals, battery, windshield wipers, shifter bushings, etc.?

 

i went to schucks and got an intake for like 30 bucks

 

Do you have headers with the exhaust? If you do, have you open the actuaters?
Also dont forget to Remove the Cat. Doing this may result in a very loud exhuast noise and more Cops might want to look your way. So it would really be up tp you bro. But it would bring some horses out

 

honestly, i bought that intake and was very dissapointed when i opened the box to find i payed 115 bucks for a filter.... since i have done a TII swap with a custom intake

 

So replace it when it breaks with the same price unit thats better, understood. But it doesn't belong on an 'upgrade' list as something that should be done before your drive shaft wears out.

 

Yeah, wouldn't bother replacing it until it started making the first humming noise. Were it my only vehicle, I would probably just replace it at about 150k miles so I could perform the maintenance on my schedule rather than get a surprise at a really bad time. Sometimes they make it to 200k miles, but if you keep driving on a bad driveshaft it can start to lock up and the vibrations will destroy your expensive plastic interior pieces.

I think most performance parts are better added after the originals either show a lot of wear or get close to their expected service life.

 

There's a 91 RX7 vert in the next town over for sale. I went and test drove it and it feels like crap compared to mine. This is my car from the guy I bought it from.


"I installed a new engine 2 years ago in november 2006 (128k miles) - Changed
clutch at the same time. Recently a month ago i changed the clutch again do to slipping of the clutch slave cylinder (150,804). Installed new clutch slave cylinder and master cylinder at same time as 2nd clutch install. Changed Transmission gear lube, both ingintion coils, the mass-air-flow sensor. Changed the crank angle sensor. Has new plugs and wires installed last year. Had a new set of intake manifold gaskets installed after new engine was installed for a year do to a leak. 4 new oil metering lines installed last year. 1 new high pressure oil line installed october 2007. 1 new alternator, 1 new starter and 1 new battery last year. Installed drilled and slotted rotors and lifetime brake pads. Has two new rear break calipers. K and N air filter. New shift boot. Dual Flow Master 40 series exhaust installed. Garage stored. I have spent almost 5K on fixing this car to be in the shape it's in. "


He's a trustful guy and I know him and talk to him on a daily (we work next to each other at UPS)>.

Since I got the car, I changed both master cylinders put a new battery in it and most of the old belts and other small stuff. The car now has 152k miles on it.

 

OK, so what kind of flywheel did it have?

Synthetic? What about the differential?

There is something wrong with the electrical system if the battery only lasted a year even with a new starter and alternator.

Good for 10 years or a million miles, so you don't need to worry about that for quite some time, lol. Therefore, you can cross the filter/intake off your list. However, you will need a recharger kit once it hits its service interval.

Oh boy, that's not good. Flowmaster mufflers are not intended for rotary engines. You will probably need to replace them soon.

 

I don't know what fly wheel he had. Sorry i'm a noob on this stuff. I was just stating that his car didn't feel as good as mine. My clutch felt more tight and I could feel the difference when I shifted. Idk about those other questions. I will have to ask him (previous owner).

The battery was only changed due to him not driving it and it sat in his garage for about 1 year. We could have charged it, but I wanted the car asap.

So if I did a different exhaust, what would be a mean sounding non ricer one to get? I like duals but will do single.

I know there's no synthetic usage in the car. afaik.

 

Racing Beat makes good exhausts that are quiet. You can keep the Flowmasters on there until the baffles blow out, which could take minutes or years.

 

Screw buying a "brand name" intake. Go to Home Depot, buy their 3" to 3" adapter/coupler, buy some 3" exhaust pipe from advance or wherever, get it bent by an exhaust shop (try to find one with a mandrel bender) and buy the proper couplers (try advance, home depot, plumbing shop or performance shop and enjoy. $99 for a filter and a stupid adapter is the most retarded way to spend $100.

People run custom piping for TIDs for turbos all the time, no reason to not be able to use the same fab work to make an intake, its just a piece of pipe. Before all this you should consider how much of an HP gain you'll even get from this though vs. the money spent.