I'm trying to pull the panel, how do I disconnect the lines going into it? Do I need to remove them where they come from (ex: speedo line at the tranny)?

If I can disconnect them from the back of the panel, how? Pictures would be nice but I can make do with a description. I think there are three mains going into it, one speedo, one light, one everything else... I think.

Need to get this out so I can finish pulling the dash right now heh.

--Gary

 

The speedo cable has a rocker type release catch.
Be as gentile as you can with the multi-pin plugs. The solder joints where they join the circuit board can give trouble.

 

How do I disconnect them?

Pull straight out?

Rocker-type?

;_;

--Gary

 

Bump.... anyone that can explain exactly how to disconnect them? This isn't something I want to damage.

Umm and while I'm at it... how can I reset the miles to 0, out of curiosity? And no I'm not trying to scam anything ;P lol... you have to tell the DMV how many miles were on the car when you sold it anyway... but since I'm doing a rebuild I figured it'd be cool to have 0 miles on my car.

--Gary

 

It is a federal offense to modify the odometer, and if you can't figure out how to unplug the cluster, popping open both the odometers (there are two on FC's) and resetting them is probably past your abilities.

The gauges will have two (or three if you have an auto tranny) plugs, move the locking tab in the middle of the plug to the side to unlock them.

As mentioned above the speedo cable uses a clamp on design (much like most of the plugs in the car). You will need to pressin on the clamp to unlock the cable then pull the cable out away from the cluster

 

yes, the other 2 harnesses just pull out. But as noted, be carefull. They break easy. If you have skinny girly hands like me you can just squeeze your hand back there and do it.

 

I don't have small girly hands, but the reason I stopped replying is 'cause I finally got impatient and just did it... that was way earlier today heh.

The reason I was asking is because I know this car can have very fragile parts and if you don't know how to remove them correctly you can easily damage them, don't go getting on my case for that Icemark.

Anyway the solder points in the back look actually very strong, I'm not sure what you guys are talking about. Only thing that caught me was the oil temp, gas, etc side you push the clip down and on the right side you push it up heh, made to trick you! haha

And resetting the odometer is not a Federal crime if you report an odometer malfunction, report the actual miles at the failure to the DMV, and have it put on the registration.

Thanks for the smartass remark though. I would expect better from someone who is so knowledgable about these cars. =/

--Gary

 

Hey Bob the Normal: smile. You just made an *** of yourself.

 

I don't recall for sure, but it may be possible to cut a window in the odometer face so you can see the third set of number wheels that work the 20,000 mile switch.
You can zero those wheels & jumper the switch.

 

No, the 2nd odometer (non resetable and for the 20K switch) is at the back of the speedo assembly. Its second function is for people like Bob, to show tampering.

I hope Bob know that Car fax will report speedo change as well and it will drop the value of his car further. But then being the Normal person he is, I am sure he knows.

 

Besides that being totally illegal, you are aware that just because you have a rebuilt engine, doesn't mean that you have 0 miles on your car? Your car has just as many miles on it as it did when the engine blew, and so do all of the components.