I need to replace my clutch and I do not have good access to air tools. Biggest problem is the flywheel nut sitting at ~350ftlbs. I don't want to pay 400$ for a shop to do the whole job and would like to do it myself. I am thinking of renting out a torque multiplier from Autozone and using that to remove and reinstall the flywheel nut. I would like some input on this, has anyone tried similar way before? From what I read the multiplier works for loosening and torquing, is that true for the Autozone one?

 

Why do you need to remove the flywheel? Are you having it machined?

 

Yes

 

If the engine is IN the car still,Find a Truck Wheel mobile repair place.
Get them to come to your house and Zip it off.They put on 18 wheeler tires so they need the BIG Guns!
I actually did that and it was only like 25 bucks.They guy came back after I put the Flywheel back on and wouldn't take money to zip it back on!..If I would have drank I would have slipped him a Brew or Two!
Now,If the engine is out you can always load the engine up and bring it to a shop and have them Zip it off.
The "thing" about removing the Flywheel is that it is not done often.It is a One time,sort of thing,so any tools needed will just cost you money then sit on the shelf afterwards accumulating dust.
The 2-1/8th(54 mm) socket is not used for anything else on the car!
By the way,do not forget the "Key Way" when installing the Flywheel!..(it has been done before!.,sad to say.But thank God,not me..lol!)

 

My friend's dad is a truck driver and knows a place, but I don'y want to leave my car there while the flywheel is resurfaced. I have the socket already from when I parted an old engine. If I can confirm that the Autozone multiplier works both ways Ill probably use that method

 

Get a big breaker bar, pipe, and a flywheel socket and break it by and. Not that hard if you have a couple guys and a flywheel stopper. Easier if it's out of the car, but you might be able to slip a breaker bar between the firewall and engine.

 

I was thinking that but still need to properly torque it back on

 

Just do it in reverse with a good tug and a little lock tight.

 

Can you find or borrow a 1/2" electric impact [~$60] and a propane torch?

Heat the nut until it *just slightly* changes color.. Almost looks like it's slightly greasy or wet, and immediately switch to the impact gun and you should be good to go.

As for reinstall... One line down the threads of red loctite and impact it back on. My DeWalt 1/2" maxes out around 300 Foot pounds, so it's about perfect.

 

I was told by a few people that most impacts don't do their rated torque on tightening, only loosening.

 

Interesting.. Hadn't heard that before
Luckily, you use loctite in addition to the impact gun.

Its been two years since I did it and it's still fine.

There's really no other way to do it unless you take it to that shop. It would be ridiculously dangerous to try to apply 300ft-lbs of torque using leverage while on jack stands..

 

The electric I had could barely take a front pulley bolt off a 99 Civic so I doubt it will have the ***** to remove a 350 ft lbs 13b bolt.

 

That's actually a very strong electric impact to be able to remove a honda crank bolt. I'm going to say it should be able to remove the 54mm from a mazda.

 

It looks like you really wanna do it right. To the tee. Although lots of guys/gals here haven't had problems, I can respect you want the peace of mind.

A few things:

The torque multiplier will not get you a torque for tightening, unless you rig up a spring scale to it or come up with some ingenious plan. Use that for removal only. You'll need a flywheel stopper or use chain and bolts on the engine to tranny holes to hold the flywheel. Having said that, a good air impact is the way to go for sure. Rent or borrow.

When you have the flywheel machined, have them only take down the least as needed and remove the pins and machine the same amount. I'm assuming you have the non turbo with the stepped flywheel. Also replace the pilot bearing and pilot bearing seal and (if it doesn't come with the clutch kit) get a new clutch release bearing. Inspect clutch fork, lube pivot pin, inspect slave cylinder and input shaft bearing.

Now you're closer to getting it on. Use a torque wrench. Again, borrow or rent. The actual torque spec. is a little higher than the 350ft-lb you quoted. I put it in another thread.

edit: if removing the tranny to get to the clutch - if working by yourself or in a shitty situation - DO NOT HANG THE TRANNY BY THE INPUT SHAFT - you may end up messing the pilot bearing and/or bending the clutch disk. Don't ask. It always helps to have a buddy loosen the engine mounts a bit and tilt the engine back a bit to align with the tranny. Also helps to have said buddy with a socket and ratchet on the front bolt to turn the engine a tiny bit to help align the splines of the input shaft and clutch disk.

Oh, and as said above, make sure the car is safely supported, and even on jack stands, be smart about it.

torque spec. see last post - if you're ****, aim for center of torque spec. range:

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...-957065/page2/

 

It is a turbo everything, the clutch kit comes with both bearing, Ill have to get the seal from Mazda. Front of the car is on metal ramps and the rear is on two stands plus the hydraulic jack, I should be good there hopefully. I talked to a person who took the flywheel off last time, he said he didnt use any loctite and impacted it on with a 550ftlbs air impact, if it is true that do not actually do 550 on tightening I should have no problem taking it off with heat and breaker bar. Also for the pins, you're talking about the pressure plate alignment ones?

 

I believe he is talking about the Ball that the clutch fork is set on.Just make sure that part is ok and no wear is present.

 

I was talking about both in different contexts.

The turbos don't have a stepped flywheel, so not sure if u have to remove the clutch pressure plate alignment pins.

The clutch fork pivot pin has a ball on the end. Just make sure it's good and apply a little lube.

 

The 13b E shaft nut is nearly 3 times the torque as a b16 which is around 140 ft lbs.

 

This is true but i work in a honda specialist shops and i can tell you there are those days where it takes more than 140ft lbs to take it off... The difference between the fly wheel nut and the pulley bolt is that the nut doesnt see moisture while the bolt does. There are times where we have to use a special tool that holds down the pulley while you turn the bolt loose with an 1" breaker bar (1" referring to the size of the sockets that it takes). But yeah, heat is important. See if your local home depot/auto parts store will sell you acetylene torch kits. Burnzomatic makes em and its very handy for not only your flywheel nut but all sorts of rusted bolts and nuts. Combo that with a nice big breaker bar/impact gun and you'll get it off.

 

I found a tool rental shop 5 minutes away from me. Looks like I can rent a 425ft/lbs electric Bosch impact for 20$/day, good deal for me! Will pull tranny this weekend and get a day for tool pickup, flywheel resurface, flywheel install, and tool return. Gonna be a tight schedule

 

Don't rush. Spend another $20 if needed so u can double check everything. Also plan on trouble removing the pilot bearing....have a slide hammer type pilot bearing removal tool.