Injector Atomizers?
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MattB
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Injector Atomizers?
i pulled these out of my injectors holes and realized they needed to stay in there...these are cracked, but i have some in my other motor...how do i get them out? i need to put them in the motor i have in the car now...
-Matt
#2
Engine, Not Motor
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Yeah, those are totalled.
Getting them out can be difficult. The actual air bleed is held in via the o-rings and these rings can stick to the side of the bore after a while. The bleeds themselves get brittal. I've had success with spraying penetrating oil around the edge AND into the air supply nipple (on the lower intake in the middle closest to the engine) and then pushing up from above. But you will likely break them on removal. New ones are available at Mazda but they are rather expensive at around $20-$30 each.
Getting them out can be difficult. The actual air bleed is held in via the o-rings and these rings can stick to the side of the bore after a while. The bleeds themselves get brittal. I've had success with spraying penetrating oil around the edge AND into the air supply nipple (on the lower intake in the middle closest to the engine) and then pushing up from above. But you will likely break them on removal. New ones are available at Mazda but they are rather expensive at around $20-$30 each.
#3
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Those things suck ***, I tried to get them out for hours only to leave two of them in after all. I would bet some snap ring type pliers might work, if they had outward facing prongs that you could expand as you pull out. Worth a try, I did not have anything like that, so I tried to do the same with needle nose pliers I wrapped with duct tape (I know it sounds funny, but it actually got two of them out in one piece). Good luck!
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MattB
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alright, well i have 4 chances to get 2 unbroken...i have the blown motor with 4 good ones...and i just sprayed penetrating oil in there and im gonna let it sit tonight, spray more tomorrow, let it sit again, and take them out on friday when im gonna be working on my car next....
-Matt
-Matt
#6
'86 N/A Phone Dials
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I just went 3 for 4 on Secondary Air bleeds. The first one i just pushed out with my thumb and out the injector hole. Second one I jiggled it back and forth, then I used my finger as a "hammer" and I busted it.
Then I got my hands on a second UIM and tryed it again with PB Blaster, jiggled them around a bit, more pb blaster, and they both popped out really nice.
I have yet to try anything with the Primary Air bleeds, the secondary Air bleeds go for around $45 each! Be very careful with those. The Primary ones I think are about $20-$30 each.
If you use a tool where your fingers and penetrator fail, you will break them.
Then I got my hands on a second UIM and tryed it again with PB Blaster, jiggled them around a bit, more pb blaster, and they both popped out really nice.
I have yet to try anything with the Primary Air bleeds, the secondary Air bleeds go for around $45 each! Be very careful with those. The Primary ones I think are about $20-$30 each.
If you use a tool where your fingers and penetrator fail, you will break them.
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'86 N/A Phone Dials
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I'd say they are. Liquid fuel won't burn, it needs to be a vapor.
I don't however think you should spend $40 dollars for each. Go junkyard, or the FS section, see if anyone is getting rid of a UIM/LIM and they want to sell their Air Bleeds. And if you need just one Secondary Air Bleed. I would sell you mine for shipping and a few bucks since I have an extra.
But I'll wait till my car is running before I start giving parts away.
I don't however think you should spend $40 dollars for each. Go junkyard, or the FS section, see if anyone is getting rid of a UIM/LIM and they want to sell their Air Bleeds. And if you need just one Secondary Air Bleed. I would sell you mine for shipping and a few bucks since I have an extra.
But I'll wait till my car is running before I start giving parts away.
#10
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I was reading the same discussion in the FD forum... can't find the thread now (really helps my credibility) but they were taking theirs out snapping the legs off and putting them back in because they are a spacer for the injector.
FYI all these do not atomize the fuel spray. your injectors do that like a Windex bottle. I have yet to find out actually what Mazda's reasons are for putting them in out cars.
once I pull mine (hopefully this weekend) I will be turning new ones without legs from aluminum stock to fit as a spacer. I'll make a thread and a writeup of how and what i did.
Ryosuke
FYI all these do not atomize the fuel spray. your injectors do that like a Windex bottle. I have yet to find out actually what Mazda's reasons are for putting them in out cars.
once I pull mine (hopefully this weekend) I will be turning new ones without legs from aluminum stock to fit as a spacer. I'll make a thread and a writeup of how and what i did.
Ryosuke
#11
Engine, Not Motor
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The air bleeds form part of the injector seat. I would assume that you're not going to have much luck mounting the injectors without them though I have never tried. It seems to me that the bottom o-ring would have nothing to seal against.
#12
'86 N/A Phone Dials
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Did some google searching, and it's more for a low velocity/idle atomization of fuel. After reading that I remember that with low velocity or cold start, it's harder for fuel to atomize, and the Air Bleeds are just for that reason.
But I guess if that was the reason, why would they put them in the secondary ports?
But I guess if that was the reason, why would they put them in the secondary ports?
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yah, you kinda need those. they're usaully very easy to get out, sometimes a dental pick will help. just soak them for awhile and they should just pop out using your finger and pressing upwards.
#14
Engine, Not Motor
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I just took a quick look at an S4 NA upper intake and without the air bleeds, the injectors will not be able to seat. The fuel rail will push them right down into the intake runner and you'll have a huge vacuum leak. You need them.
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