rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

Originally my S5 TII was running perfect and idled at 1k which sounded low to me.

Stock injectors, stock ecu, 255 fuel pump, aftermarket intake ect...
Nothing too out of the normal.

Day 2, It hit limp mode at 3k. (disconnecting the battery lead would fix)
Day 7, same
Day 8, Wouldn't hold idle but hit limp mode at 5k
Day 9, Wouldn't hold idle unless it was held at 3k for about 2minutes then it would
hold untill you actually tried to get into 1st and roll off.
Day 10, Constant idle drop without gas, straight stall.
Day 23, Same as day 5... Won't hold idle Thing is it was fine.

All inner warning lights are off aside from Rad? but it's acting properally
Cool, untill it gets going...


Only thing I can think of is AFM and resetting the ECU with a re-flash.
I was told adjusting the TPS up throwing off the ECU or a simple reflash.

Don't understandhow to more then where on resetting an ecu aside from a RB25det

satch

iTrader: (1)

Check for codes and go from there.

rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

Can't check codes as the wiring is worthless and 99% of readings aren't avaliable.

Main problem iv'e run into is the TPS as it was at 1,600 and topped off half way only 40% and it got stuck at 4,400 60% of it was empty 4,400.

Anyone know how to adjust to so I can have it properly adjusted for WOT.

In the meanwhile im going to clean out my BAC, as exterior is all gunky so inside is probably just as bad.

Got to fix the problem with 0 codes.

rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

Just realized my BAC valve doesn't have air lines runing into just coolant.
BACTII.jpg:

http://imageupload.org/en/file/223519/bactii.jpg.html

Furb

iTrader: (2)

Dude, sort out your wiring first..

If it is indeed limp mode you experience, it is possibly an OMP issue

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

You got good advice from Satch.

Pull the codes.

http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/codes.html

There is no reflash. Who ever gave you the idea that you could reflash the ECU?

You have a bad MOP, most likely.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/s5-mop-ecu-failure-diagnosis-710938/

Keep driving it and you will burn out your ECU. Then you will find out how precious and rare your N370 ECU is.

-Jack

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Have you seached, read the Archive, the FAQ or are you just expecting everyone else to spoon feed you information?

Try searching for 'adjust TPS' You will find hundreds of theads to help you.

You could even use the Advanced Search and search for Adjust TPS in the TITLE of the threads.

Here-I did it for you- https://www.rx7club.com/search.php?searchid=10645485

Good reading!

rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

... Well I figured it out 50% of it myself but now im down to the other half.

The Limp mode was fixed to a simple retard setup of the MAF simple as them removed it to add an aftermarket intake filter by just a universal and not adding extra support so the stock intake sperated from the body as well as a rubber stop in the MAF sensor was connected to it was blocking it from connecting properaly as the "Click" sound didn't register for them.


I Have a Knight sports FCBC Defender running: as I adjusting the TPS lower caused problems as on start up it was constantly setting off the plugs.

After adjusting that now im stuck with 1.5k startup dropping into a stall...
My Alternator and plugs are obviously working *tested*, aside from obvious.

Could my fuelpump and or filter be a issue? I heard if you let your RHD imports run dry in the tank they suck up 15year old filth.

Electrical side
...All power options, gauges, interior/exterior working.
The AC and Heater have been removed and containers and lines removed from the car.
Do have a turbo timer wired also, half of wiring for a widebad? not into sensors just fuses and pigtailed live.



Re-flash can be manaully done on a RB25det -cb(owned one.. How ... sklyineowners has a guide strangly involves a "slight shock". I was confused)


Will check MOP jack thanks for another step.

rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

I'll dig around more, before I start a new thread but, In reality I found what I was looking for from a user that posted rather then what "he, added to the thread".
So starting a useless one found me what I was looking for...

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/s5-omp-mop-frustration-752865/

But No LIMP mode, that was just poorly assembled AFM, Boosts everytime now.
and stalls without gas.

New TPS, So checking MOP or OMP then ECU for short circuits and then done.

Thanks for whomever contributed without sarcasm.

rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

Problem Solved: problem was Vacuum leak, from lazy aftermarket converson to intake, as in the filter's weight and position caused it to open it self and allow for bad air flow.

Raising and dropping the RPM causing it to stall and not boost.
Also the Fuel cut defender was causing rapid spark and detonation: confusing the ECU also leading me into a stall.

FIX: larger metal coupler and rubber tubing.

rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

After adjusting and closing vacuum leak the car has a problem with it's electronics as it is the only thing left to dig through.

So Now it runs and idles fine aside from the MAF screw for idle air has been closed comepletely and isn't really hurting anything just not 100% smooth on idle.

So.... Now the car runs perfectly for exactly 6km! then boost cut, so I pull over to the side of the road and disconnect the battery and im good for EXACTLY once again 6km, and then the boost cuts out.

So the only things I can think of is the idle screw which doens't really fit, and the boost isn't 100% correct: It sometimes boosts 8.2 and can go all the way up to 14.
(It not only reads like that but it honestly boosts more, you can feel the power difference without looking)

So? What could be causing this?
I was told maby I could pick up a piggy-pack product that resets the ecu constantly for my FC so it will keep a more consistant setting. Anyone know any products or things I could attempt to try.

255fuel pump/no boost controller, stock injectors i believe. It could still be a vacuum leak but it only cuts off after exactly 6km then it needs to be disconnected and reconnect and works the SECOND after.

rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

Hello, quick update on this...

Only problem: boost cut after short driver you usaully always get 20km+ before you hit 3k rmp wall with no more increase and boost seize.

It now, is the same but you can just simply pull over and turn off and turn back on to get back to the 20km barrier.

The pressure sensor/ maf seem to work as they should, asumming it's doing it's job as the ECU cuts boost when the pressure increases past the Boost controller settings. (8 to 14+ steady increase)

Iv'e moved onto buying a full aluminum intake with pressure valves for stock hoses and soon new vacuum lines.

Aside from a "leak", could my problem be releated to my (seemingly working maf/pressure sensor or even my fully wired AFC NEO) Like i stated before It will boost everytime after for roughly 6-20km+
no other hic-ups